Small TCU placement down low to the first bolt on Coolhead. Equalize several small cams in the flake before climbing up and joining Leap Frog.

McBride's Mind

Critical Mass

Little Roof  (aka Small Roof)

Master mind

Body Suit

The Unfinished Piece

Time the Avenger

Dr. Coolhead

Masters of Reality

Slap Roof

Leap Frog

Resurrection Factor

Closed Heimer (AKA The Big Flush)

Side Saddle

No Stone Unturned

Scrotum Roof

Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route"

Extended Altar Call

Crazy Alice

Straight Face

Sundown Dihedral

Sweet Jesus

Triple Decker

Sloth

My Name is Nobody

Flying Nun Variation

Larin Has Balls

Knuckle Sandwich

Squeeze Play

Thunder route

Too Much Fun

The Dihedral

Yellow Corner

Conflict In Terms

Fantasy Roof

The Flying Nun

Want to test your friction skills?  This is the route!  Working the steep face on micro edges will have your tips burning and only great footwork will get you through.  The lower moves are protected by a small cam in the lower crack and bolts up above.  The crux is passing the 1st bolt, with some different options.  I prefer to work it straight up focusing on balancy feet.  Some like moving right to a juggy ledge to overcome.  Work the thin edges to the top and keep out of Alice's crack!

Climb up the slab and then make 3-6 moves through the roof crack to the lip(crux) then move up into a nice handcrack above.

Just above the top out of Flying Nun is a short roof section. The left hand-sized crack is Little Roof, the right fist+ sized crack is 'Sloth'. Start directly under the crack, climbing up 10 ft of easy face to a rail below the roof. Here, you can place a 0.1 cam in the thin seam on the roof, or, reach to the jug rail in the base of the crack and place a cam or two (0.5-1) overhead. High hands and lay-backing gets you over the bulge where you gain a mossy finger crack and establish yourself on easy terrain. An anchor can be built directly above Sloth with cams at 2/3. 

Located to the left of the dihedral. Climb up the unprotected face to a horizontal crack with a bolt, continue up intersecting with masters of reality. Finish on Masters of Reality.  "Kinda spooky" -Jimmy Ratzlaff

 This route used to have a pin but it got replaced with a bolt per the WMCC decision to replace fixed hardware with bolts for a more sustainable future.

Unclear, any beta would be appreciated if you have climbed this route.

Climbing the slab and up past the large cedar tree to the right of Critical Mass.  Cedar tree makes a good anchor for those into short pitches.  Then the original route in 'Southern Exposure' traverses left to join Critical Mass and the two right finishing legs of 'Flying Grasshopper, AKA Richard Pryor".  As a single pitch, and seen in newer guides, taking the direct line above the Cedar keeps rope drag down but at the cost of hard exposed moves.

A top rope route on questionable quality rock.

The traverse out and clipping the bolts will have you wishing you were wearing your brown pants.

Decent route for the grade.  Bring your garden tools for this one.  This is short and sweet, and really has big stances.

Crux move for some of us, is where the top of the crack ends and you have to move out and do a few of the face moves on Dr. Coolhead.  If you excel at face moves, then the more likely crux comes back where the crack banks left and flares on smearing feet.  Be careful not get gear into your holds until you have passed them.

The most difficult line on this face.  Climbs up the face between Coolhead and Richard Pryor, joining Pryor where it moves across the major left leaning crack.  Lots of crimps and delicate footwork.

Climb crumbling rock up into a chimney which leads to a large chockstone.  Climb deeper into the crack and finish up and out of the pit to find easy climbing to the finish.

Decent route at the grade.  Short and sweet.  Bring some friction skills.  The girls will enjoy the tiny crack across the face, where those sausage fingers just won't fit.

The moves getting over the slight overhang are the hardest.  An excellent short line.

Crux is turing the roof.  There is a key pinch block mentioned in the old guidebook.

Good climbing with some weird moves.  Can be a single pitch but to reduce rope drag it is best to break into two.  Protectet the traverse for your second.

At the Critical Mass roof, move to the left to aviod the business and get to the upper section.

The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state.  Follow the zig zagging crack up the face.  Great jams will have you wanting more.  Crux is not very clear, about 25-30 feet up the crack breaks up some and the feet aren't as good, the high section has some awkward jams.  Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other.

Top Rope line on the very end of the wall.  Questionable protection and rock.  Follows the faint crack in the steep wall making up the right side of the 'Closed Heimer' chimney.

A great line up a dihedral that is a great way to end a hot day.  Shade late.

Take the crack that angles left instead of the direct line that is Critical Mass.

Some quality moves down low, and a little run out.  Once you turn the 3rd deck it turns into 4-5 broken ledges.  Worth climbing.  I would break into two pitches for rope drags sake.

Jam the crack out the roof.  Just above the top out of Flying Nun is a short roof section.  The left one is Little Roof and the right one is 'Sloth'

A classic 70s western movie! My name is nobody climbs the crack system below the big flush.

Climb Flying Nun, until the crack runs out, then step right onto a knoll to finish.

Climb up the dirty-crusty-bulging section left of the roof section and then up and join up and finish on Leap Frog or Richard Pryor.  This route has a super wild mantle to turning the lip.  Wild!

Climb up the nice edges to a suspect flake that takes gear.  Pull up on a precarious looking horn through a slab section up to a horizontal with a fixed angle (back it up with a small cam).  Step up and turn the next roof, pulling gentley to find some good placements for small cams.  You will find another piton, from which you can moving left to the 3 bolt anchor (5.10b).  The traditional ascent works straight up over the black buldge to a bolt that protects the hard cranks using thin edges and sidepulls finishing on easy moves to the top.  Take some slings to avoid major rope drag.

Not in the currently published guidebook.  A decent line that skirts along next to the Dihedral using pockets and face holds for protection.  Link this line up into Flying Nun for a nice long single pitch.

The route starts with crimpy holds and finishes with the crux being the last move to the top.  You can protect with bomber gear at the start of the crux.  A fall at the crux could put you on a ledge.

Traverse across the roof.  Major crater potential, so a crash pad is advisable.

Climb ledge to ledge, great stances abound.  Plenty of backstep opportunities and no hands rests/placements.  This route gets greasy, so it can easily psyche you out. The crux is moving under the roof, which looks intimidating from the ground but all the positive holds are solid making this thing a blast for anyone.  Only downside, is you can't get a clean fall with so many ledges.

The crux is in the first couple of moves off the ground.  Climbing turns easy as you head up the broken ledges.

Climbs the right section of the roof and up the face.  Various options for how to top out.

Hardest moves are just under the roof.  You can bypass by moving out right earlier for easier climbing.

Climb any route to the CA rap station, then work the thin crack up to the overhanging block in the left corner.  She has some very nice roof moves.  Some of the best exposure the wall has.  Just awesome.

Split by a large prowl the wall is split into a left and right sections.  Both sides have quality lines.  The right side lines are the longer of the two.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Zoo Wall