Fun moves between good holds. Setup Top Rope after leading S-Crack. Stays dry in the rain.

Abba

S Crack

Right Arete

Cracking Point

Lost Soles

J-Ella

Chain Mail Hula Skirt

Jared the Juggernaut

Excellent Ella

Super Dads

Classic route. Mad River Gorge's semi overhanging jug hall. Make big moves on positive holds. 

Classic route. Climb "S" curved crack. Awkward placing gear but fun route and decent first lead. There is a top rope variation to the left of crack as well.

Classic route, but not really climbed on gear much. Most folks stick to Excellent Ella and maybe do this as a variation on top rope. 

 The start is a bit run out but easy. Staying right on arete to begin, slowly trend left to anchors above Excellent Ella.

This route goes up the center of the face right in between Lost Soles and Chain Mail Hula Skirt.  It's a great line but the gear placements can be tricky for shorter people.  Some easy face climbing brings you into a large indent in the wall where you can compose on decent hands and feet before continuing to the harder part of the route.  Exit the indent out to the right and pull your way up into the vertical crack where Lost Soles and Chain Mail Hula Skirt intersect to get to the anchors.  If you exit the indent to the left you will just end up traversing into the start/middle of Lost Soles which is considered to be off route.

 The crux of this route involves a left hand pinch/sidepull that you grab shortly after exiting the indent out right.  From this handhold you throw for the crack with your right hand and then finish on easier terrain.  The safest way to do the route is to blindly place gear in the crack above you before pulling the crux moves which is why I mention that it may be difficult for shorter people because if you cant reach the crack from below the crux you will have to pull some decently hard moves without any gear in.  It sounds like blind placements would be sketchy but the crack above the crux is so perfect for .75 cams that you can confidently place them without looking.  I will say it might be worth taking a look at it on toprope before going for the lead just to be on the safe side.

Lost Soles begins by walking up the sequence of ledges out left until you get high enough to place your first piece of gear in the crack.  Then traverse out right using the horizontal crack to place protection until it begins to run into a vertical crack that brings you to the chains above.  The horizontal crack that follows the traverse offers excellent placements and solid handholds for fiddling with gear.

 Be very careful not to mess with any of the loose rock above the cave to the left!  I would recommend avoiding even going far enough left that you are standing under the loose rock (the red line in the picture goes further left than is needed).  The climb can be started as soon as your hands can reach the crack. The loose rock is avoidable but because of the potential danger this climb has been given an R rating.

Classic route. This route takes the line of bolts directly right of S Crack. Climb thin face moves to roof.

Fun route that takes big gear. Bring your wide toys, kids!

Classic route. Climb arete using big pockets and cracks. Great first lead or warm up to the area.

Classic route. This route ascends face directly under chains. Highly featured with great pockets. Excellent first lead for a newer outdoor climber, or warm up route for the area. 

Popular area due to Excellent Ella (5.6) (a great beginner route for a new lead climber or those trying to get used to the rock) and the other moderates. Super Dads (5.10b) is one of the classic routes on this wall as it presents a great challenge for the grade. These routes tend to stay dry after a rain. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dad's Wall (aka Glass Buttress)