Climb the left hand of the two crack systems roughly in the middle of the Main Face, to the right of Crack in the Box. Good holds down low lead to slightly more challenging holds higher up and a tricky mantel move to exit onto the final ledge.

Castor

Eyeless in Gaza

Blade Runner

Crack In The Box

Big Corner

Serpent Crack

Follow the finger and hand crack splitting the right wall of the chimney. The crux is the first 15 feet. Then you can put your back against the opposite wall, find footholds outside the crack, or even climb the slab next to the crack. At the broken roof, trend right to a small ledge  Belay here (45') or continue past a horizontal, then climb up more cracks and into a slot that leads to a large tree (95' total). For a better finish, climb out of the slot right, then over a bulge to the tree.

On the slab left of the big tree, start on a triangular stone platform, and wander among small holds to an overlap, after which the angle and difficulty ease up. The cleaned headwall at the top gets hard again. This line directly above the starting platform is what's clear of lichen now. The original line may have started more the left?

Do the same start as Serpent Crack, but traverse right under the first sickle-shaped flake to a horizontal crack and ledge. Climb the arete and/or face just left of it. Or layback with one or both feet on the right face. The climbing eases when the arete fades into lower angle slab, though I did not see any placements to end the runout. It is possible to traverse between Serpent Crack and Blade Runner at several places higher up but not with gear protection so far as I know.

Climb the angled finger crack to the first tree on a sloping ledge below a left-facing corner and offwidth crack. Thrutch the flaring crack, layback its dull edges, or pinch and hug the sharp arete. Paddle a slab to the second tree. Trend right to gain an easier corner crack, which leads all the way to the top. The upper slab also goes at 5.8 (Road Warrior) but lacks protection, and some holds lie under a thin layer of moss and dirt. With pro in the crack, a 70m rope may be too short to lower a leader back to the ground.

Boulder up a right-facing, zig-zagging flake on fingertips and small feet one or two moves before you can sink fingers and then a whole hand behind the same flake. Traverse up and right on a series of horizontals to a left-facing flake. Follow this up through an arching undercling to arrive at the crux: more fingertip flakes and small feet, past where the bolt used to be, before you can again sink fingers behind the flake. This section -- fingery edges and then a pancake flake in pale clean granite -- combines aspects of the Gunks' Arrow and CCK, only at a stiffer grade.

This 120' tall wall faces west. Trees shade the bottom in the afternoon. Most of its area is unprotected slab with some less-steep bands, dishes, and ledges 40 or more feet above the ground. One tree grows from a small ledge in the middle, and two more trees from a crack system on the far right. The left end is steep and clean all the way to the top. The right half features many more holds but also lichen, moss, and dirt. A 60-meter rope is too short to rappel or TR from the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Face