Climb the broken corner to the zig zag crack

Ring Master

Carnival Crack

Cooper's Buttress

Sideshow Bob

Under the Big Top

Bozo the Crack

Bamboozle

Bozo's Nose

Palm Reader

Penny Arcade

Human Cannonball

Fun House

Side Trip

Jumbo Jive

Magic Mystery Man

Feet of Strength

Cotton Candy

Shill

Wide crack through some roofs to easier cracks

Grunt, cuss, bleed and scream your way up the notorious 8" crack. The crux comes in the overhanging section after a near complete rest at a ledge. After getting savage on the overhanging section, the route eases only slightly when the crack becomes vertical. It ain't over till you pull over on top and are fighting back urges to puke. Have fun.

Follows the rightmost crack system on Cooper's Buttress until it ends, then trends a bit left with ample pro in some slightly mossy horizontals, which I cleaned out (August 2020).

No real crux, just sustained 5.7 in a sinker handcrack with great feet in or out of the crack.

Around the corner to the right of Carnival Crack is this 3" crack. Follow this an other features to the top of the formation.

Short Route, Bouldery crack move brings you into a thin hands slot, place gear in the roof, then use two good hand jams pods and a positive edge to jungle gym your way up and over the roof.

Another fun OW crack on the left side of the formation. Pretty easy to move your rope over there after trying Carnival crack.

The crux had some fun butterfly stacks.

Follow 3 bolts up then right to a diagonal left leaning crack

Start on the crack in the corner, then up to the slab where a bolt protects the crux

Scramble up a short wide section (#5 optional) ending on top of a short 'pillar'. From there, move right and up over a bulge. Follow the bolt line up forgiving features to the chain anchors.

Start past a bolt then up horizontal cracks to a left trending diagonal crack.

Connect the cracks on the right side of the broken face

Start in an obvious left facing corner and climb up and slightly right. The upper face climbs well with good protection to the short crux protected by a single bolt just under the anchors. The lower part catches a lot of dirt from above.

Ascends the left most crack along the edge of Cooper's Buttress. You can jam it or get some positive liebacks- your choice! There's a thin, hollow-sounding flake about halfway up- it's solid for yarding on, but I'd place gear above or below it.

CAUTION:

I heard some buzzing in the hollow spot, but saw no bees coming or going.. just made me a little uneasy.

The bolt on the slab near the top is for the 5.8 line just to the right of this route; stay left here in the lieback crack (5.easy) and then traverse right just below the chains.

Climb the left side of the large block up past some bolts and slab

Start on a slab and climb through 2 roofs/overhangs to the easier upper slab. Crux is between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Use good edges and good footwork to pull into better holds.

Route begins left of Fun House on an obvious bolted slab. Climb 5.8/9 slab moves to easy break with intermediate belay. From this large ledge pull the crux moves protected by 2 bolts then climb easier terrain to the anchors.

Follow the bolts under an arching roof trending right to the diagonal left trending crack

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Carnival Crag