The book says it is 10b, but in the text it says the crux bit is 10c.

Prime Rib

West Crack

The Warrior

Potato Chip Flake

Weekday Warrior

East Face

Duke of Ballet

A nice mix of climbing with a cool flake traverse on the first pitch

There are 3 route options for the 2nd pitch: Weekday Warrior, Hotshots, or the original (now very dirty) left facing corner.

Previously called "The Original Route" this stunning corner crack will test all of your skills and take all of your gear. Layback, stem, face climb, and jam your way up to the crux at the very end. Good steming just before the top will allow you to work out the cruxy overhanging moves to get up over the lip and to the chains.

The first pitch is 5.9, with a bit of wide crack. The 2nd pitch is 5.9 to me but the book says 10a.

Watch out where you place pro at

the "Potato chip flake" and don't touch or stand on the right end of it, very shaky! You can protect below it with fat finger cams and undercling the flake to reach the top and I managed to find one place for a #3, but a #4 would be good for the top out left traverse.

I would say this could be 5.8, except for a few thin slab moves that are pretty run-out.

This is a 2nd pitch to the great West crack, which had a 2nd pitch ( the inside corner, now very overgrown)

It starts up the layback corner, traverse left out onto the slab and stay mostly in the middle of it.

If you venture to far left you will be on the 2nd pitch of Hotshots which is also 5.9 and worth doing as well.

You will either fuss over a 50' run-out trying to place tiny cams and brass nuts like I did or just run it out till clipping bolts.

After the 8 bolts there is a water runnel crack that is wide but much easier.

At this point there are 2 routes on the east side of the Warrior Prow. This is the right side

The first pitch is worth doing on it's own, really good sequences of moves.

The second pitch is good, but felt sketchy trying to lead thin crack and mossy face holds while scraping at the shallow water runnel trying to place gear.

Top of the 2nd pitch has rap chains or you can continue up cracks to the top and walk off to the west between the Warrior and Duty dome

Begin to the right of the Warrior prow on a slab with bolts.Left side of slab.

Rated 11b, or this move can be aided, making it 10b/A0

Pitch 1: Slab with bolts and gear 11b or 10b A0, pretty run-out scary pure friction. Save for a cool day.Bolted rap here.

Pitch 2: left trending into groove, 10b, 90', crux move past 1st bolt into mossy groove.

Pitch 3: short steep step, stay in corner, or finger traverse on the right. 5.9

Pitch 4: 5.10 move at a bolt, then easier ground to the top. 10a

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Warrior Wall