"So I turned my mind to understand, to investigate, and to search out wisdom, the scheme of things, and to understand the stupidity of wickedness and the madness of folly."

This route had apparently been toproped in the past but had never been seen a real ascent until now. Start up the nice flake into a couple moves of crack climbing. When the crack thins and peters out, so do the opportunities for gear, making for and engaging second half, but the spice is right, and the holds are sufficient. This route packs a quick punch through its powerful crux but also has some really fun moves before and after.

The route was first climbed as a headpoint ascent with moves and gear placements rehearsed on toprope.

Madness of Folly

Fat Fingered And Overhung

The Rotunda

Cheater Five

Candyland

Hanson's Folly

Hackfleisch

The Mosh

The Fingers Have It

Pebble Pinching Pagoda

Outer Mongolia

Oh Face

Stratego

Chicken Wing Crack

Pack the Walls

Up the Red

Are You Experienced?

Primal Jam

The Story So Far

Bad Ass Pi Man

Cro-Mag Crack

The Squeeze

Jackalopes and Preachers

Wall of Webs

Ada Jam

The Way Out

This route goes up the face between Where's The Jam? and

Are You Experienced?

Look for a shallow V-dihedral with a thin crack and a pocket.  Start below the V-corner, climb up it using the crack and pocket.  A mantel helps above.   This climb is quite licheny, but I think it is two-stars pending a little clean-up.

As you follow the trail down from

Are You Experienced?

around the corner (not the chimney), there is a series of overhanging flakes. Start at the first one at the corner and use the flake to gain the edge. From there, climb the obvios series of finger holds up the face. The flake itself is probably a 5.6.

Climb the short face to the left of

Primal Jam

. The start is the crux. Once you reach the ledge, head over to the arete to finish.

This climb is located to the north of

Primal Jam

. It's the only clean dihedral you will run into. Stem the dihedral.

Locate Candyland just around the corner from

Chicken Wing Crack

on the left (East-facing) side of the large, detached block.

Start in some pockets and cobbles on the face and squirm a #2 Friend into the first pocket.  Now climb up to a small, slanting ledge with a very thin crack at its back (oh, just thought of something--a large Pika hook might be able to fit around this ledge/flake), but if you don't generally carry large hooks around, place the micro cam in the thin crack above the ledge).  A few feet higher the #3 tricam can be fiddled into a large pocket on the face.  It takes a minute to get it right, but it's pretty bomber.  Now, take a deep breath and punch through the crux under the right-facing corner/roof up to a long horizontal finger crack.  Place a good #1 Friend, then pull the roof to the top.  This route is spicy (Cajun style) but does not get an "s" rating if you can place the micro cam and tricam properly.

The anchor on top can be made with two medium/large stoppers in a crack parallel to the cliff edge about 15 back and to the left.  Use a long sling to get the rope over the edge.

This climb is not in the guidebook.  A fellow climber pointed it out as we were passing by.  He was not sure of the name, but he thought it was called Hanson's Folly.  Maybe Mr. Hanson knows the truth.

Anyway, climb a face with a crack on the left to a ledge.  From here, it is class 1 to class 3 to the chimney.  Climb the chimney to the overhanging offwidth (crux).  Figure out the crux and follow the crack and slab to the top.

This is a pretty good climb.  Climb the lower crack to a ledge.  You can fill this up with large gear if you want (3-6 inch cams or Bigbros).  At the ledge, choose between more wide crack on the left or a hand crack on the right.  If you are out of large gear (like I was), the right side is the better option.

The left finish is also good.  I just need a couple more big pieces to lead that side.

The crack right of

Pack the Walls

, in the same chimney.

Start in a small seam (reachy for the shorter) that leads to a ledge. From here, fire up through a fantastic sequence of gastons, sidepulls, flakes, and a cobble to reach an undercling and a large move to the next ledge. This is very fun and thoughtful. It is much more continuous than it looks from the ground. If you are walking south (left) from The Grocery Store, get on this route!

I am adding this route, because it is not listed here. Please update any information if it is your route or you know more about it. I created a temporary route until the correct information is found.

Climb the north-facing section to the right of

The Mosh

.  At the top of the section, climb the east-facing dihedral to the top.

This route goes up just right of

Hanson's Folly

.  There are 2 anchor bolts at the top.  You climb onto a ledge and then ascend up the pseudo-dihedral.  There are many small cobblestone pieces to work with, albeit there are a bit sandy.  The beginning might be the crux for some, with a balancy middle section, and juggy finish.

Climb past a small roof and continue up the wall on edges and pockets

Find this route by hiking South from the Grocery Store walls until you see the large chimney (actually a huge detached block) with two offwidth routes.  Chicken Wing is on the left.  Although the climb is offwidth-sized, much of the route may be done using face holds and stemming to the arete on the left.  Start up the route, then locate a small pocket on the inside left face (for the tricam) at about 8-10 feet.  If you don't have a #5 Camalot (like me) you'll have to run it out to a good rest at about 20ft, otherwise a #5 should fit nicely in this wide section.  A groundfall is probably not likely since the tricam is pretty bomber and once you reach the good ledge, the #4 Friend can be placed here.  At this point, it's tempting to crawl back into the chimney and try to squeeze out the top, but it's just too thin (unless you're 10 years old or something).  It's better to stay on the outside of the offwidth and face the monster like a man (or woman).  Make the final committing moves up the home stretch via tough offwidth jams or liebacking.  The #4 Camalot may be placed near the top of the hard moves in the crack on the right (The Squeeze) or if you happen to have TWO #5 Camalots, the second could be placed on the left.

The anchor on top may be constructed with a long (30 foot) sling by wrapping it around the long block about 15ft back from the edge.  A #2 Friend may also be placed above The Squeeze in a long horizontal pocket.

At the Neanderthal Wall as you're going south on the trail, go past the large block and find an arete on the wall with a small alcove to the right of the arete.  In the back of the alcove, climb the double cracks.  The first moves off the deck are reachy, but the climb offers a fine, moderate lead.

This climb is at the north end of the wall that houses

Chicken Wing Crack

. Climb a crack to the first ledge, and head over the bulge.

In the obvious alcove with two cracks in the back, climb the right crack in the back.  This crack is wide, requiring a large piece or two.

A huge double tiered roof that is exciting to just look at as you walk by.  To lead it is another story....

Locate this route along the trail from the Grocery Store Wall--you can't miss it.  A downclimb is possible several hundred yards to the North via easy 5th class.

Scramble up 10 feet to a ledge and begin the climb from here.  The first roof is not too bad and takes some good pro.  Pulling over this first lip is tricky, but a nice hands-free rest is found under the second roof.  The exposure is nice for this second roof, which accepts decent crack pro (variable from 0.5 inch to hand size), but large pockets make the route sane.  If you are placing a lot of pieces (especially for the first roof), Hanson notes that you can do the route in two pitches to avoid the extreme rope drag.

This is an exciting route that requires concentration, commitment, and some "hard grit."

This is a super fun lead and a good toprope. It has a lot of pro and super juggy holds.

Start at the base, to the right of "

Oh Face

" on a thick flake. Follow the line to the large ledge, then start in the dihedral leading up to a decent pocketed overhang. Update - I have been informed that this route now features a bolted anchor and can be TR'd pretty easily.

Hike south of the Grocery Store Wall until you come to the chimney.  Proceed into the chimney until you reach the fork where it opens up.  Now look straight up. This is the route. You basically climb out of the chimney using any means possible. It is a bit awkward but rather fun.

Cro-Mag Crack is located to the right of "

The Squeeze

". It begins at the entrance to the tunnel formed by the detached block. Climb the right-angling crack to a ledge (crux), WARNING! there [was] a huge, loose, triangular block on the ledge. Climb past the block to the right, and follow another crack to the top.

Per

Anonymous Climber of Offwidths

: as of 11/01/20, the loose block and various other loose rock has been cleaned up.

This route (and

Chicken Wing Crack

) are located just South of the Climber's Trail to the Grocery Store Wall.  Hike along the base until you see the two obvious wide cracks.  A passage goes all the way through this block.  Start in the chimney above the passage and work straight up to the offwidth on the right side of the block.  The right side can be slippery from draining water.

This route goes up the obvious flake on the left face of the chimney to the right of '

Fat Fingered and Overhung

'. I've seen chalk all [about] the base of this route but not higher up. I'm certain I'm not the first ascentionist, but I am claiming it, unless otherwise corrected.... It is a nice little route, a little exposed, but most climbers will breeze it.

Climb the face to the right of

Cro-Mag Crack

. Pockets and thin edges lead to a nice layback move to reach the first ledge. WARNING! There is a dangerously loose block perched on the ledge. Finish up by following a crack to the top.

Find a large alcove with wide cracks on both sides of the back of the alcove.  Climb the left crack, which provides a moderate, easily protected lead.

Follow the climber's trail south from the Grocery Store Walls until finding a big roof in the Neanderthal area.  The climb goes up the big dihedral to the right of the big roof.  Climb up to the ledge where you can climb the dihedral, protecting the thin cracks with small nuts or you can layback the flake, protecting  yourself with larger pieces.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Neanderthal Wall