It is about 25-28 moves depending on beta. The bottom section goes at about V8/9 and the top section is around V6/7 to a V3/4 topout. It's one of the most beautiful, proud, and pure lines I have ever done. Please go check it out! It deserves the traffic. I suggest bringing a rope to try the top sections before you go for the send. Enjoy!

Amalgamation

The Hernia Exam

Chesticles

Biohazard

Tears Overhang

Bear Trap

Wedgie

Murffy Slab-a-thon

Shadow's Path

Garden Party

Brazilian

Love and Peace

Hydrahedral

Chossasaur

Warmup Slab

Sunshine Traverse

Candy Corn

[Redacted]

Landing Strip

Face the Whale

The Bristol Slab

Egg Roll Traverse

Flake Roof

Pumpkin Seeds

Party Trick

Swee Sowa Pork

Broccoli Beef

V9"ish" Arete

Survival of the Fitness

Kändy Körn

Juggy roof problem, how you start is optional (toe hook or campus) the boulder itself is in good condition and is cleaned. Starts on the 2 most obvious holds in the middle, goes left to the juggy crack, then to the outer most holds and top out. Crux is the beginning depending on how you start.

Grab the rounded undercling with your right hand (turn your head and cough) then,  using a small edge for your left hand, pull on with bad feet.  A couple big moves with bad feet lead to an easier top out.

This is one of those silly little problems that can be easily overlooked as something short and easy.  While it is short, it's not really that easy... and it's quite fun.

Start matched low in underclings and move past desperate slopers to a final jug hold.

Steep wall facing the trail.  Start low and right, move left via a dynamic move to a sharp flake, then back right to a semi-dangerous topout.

This is an awesome highball right off the Bear Canyon Trail. Start low on some big holds, and move up to a big ledge using some crimps and making some fun, big moves. Stand up on the ledge and then mantle over the top at 20+ feet.

This uses a stand up start.  There is a hard move off the ground, go over a bulge, rock over left using pebble out left, use nice holds to finish, but watch out for the tree.

UPDATE: SDS cleaned by aging boulderer and sent with ease by climber 20 years younger.  SDS starts laying down matched on obvious horizontal. Probably in the V7/V8 range and quite good.

Start with right fingers jammed in the crack and press up the crack to gain bad slopers to the left.  Continue up and left to top out.

Start on good rock and slab out to a high, dirty topout. This will get better with traffic.

Start standing, low on an undercling/sidepull complex, in the middle of the south face dihedral. Move up the dihedral, get a good stance then a high right foot, and then move up and back left to topout.

This is a highball to the left of

Trixie's Trailside Treat

.  It started out pretty dirty, but it saw a few ascents October, 2010, so it's gotten a bit cleaner.  There are nice edges all the way with a balancy pebble move right before the lip....

This is 6 feet right of

Afro Bush

.  SDS, long move right hand to good edge, left hand to

Afro Bush

jug, big move to good hold.  Trend left to same finish as

Afro Bush

.

Climb the face. Stand start low. The first few moves are probably the crux, though the middle and top require delicate climbing.

This an obvious trailside dihedral.  After failing at the lip for many years, I came down it on a rope to clean the upper slab.  Judging from the amount of moss and lichen on all the upper holds, it's been a long time since its been ascended....much better now.  Go do it!

Apparently this has been done with 2 different exits.  We moved right up the arete to a good, right-hand, finger bucket to top out.  The other exit would involve going straight up the face on very bad holds...this version seems much harder.

Chossasaurus, likely done by Bob Horan years ago and left unnamed, is located on the highball, trailside boulder just past

Tears Overhang

. Climb the sheer, west-facing wall. Start on opposing sidepulls or a crimpy rail, work up to a chossy crimp (don't pull out) about 10 feet off the deck, then carefully climb the rails and crimps to the top. This is a killer line with exception of the choss crimp / sketchy landing.

Nice warmup slab left of

Garden Party

.

The top out is a little bit sketchy and is also the crux. The problem is a good warm-up. Good problem.

Not too bad. If there is a crux, it's the bottom part. The top can get a little high. Just watch your feet, then procede to the right.

This thing is too cool not to be described anywhere!  I hope I got the FA info correct (info is per Will L. - who usually knows what's up).

Perhaps the best problem of its grade in the Flatirons.  SDS out steep bulge to a cruxy bit to a jug.  Finish with a classic topout on water polished, Fountain formation sandstone.  So good! Go do it!

Link up/variation.  Start on

Brazilian

SDS, do 1st move, then move left into crux of

Afro Bush

.  Maybe a touch harder than the standard start.

This is a nice problem consisting largely of crimpy moves with hard to find but okay feet. The topout might be the crux, as the top needs cleaning and doesn't provide great friction.

Start a couple of feet to the left of the nose of the boulder with your right hand on a good rail and your left hand on a thin crimp. Move up and right on a system of crimps before gaining a slopey right hand on the way to the topout.

I'm listing the FA as Steven Bogacz/unknown, because although I haven't been able to find any previous information on the boulder, I also find it hard to believe that something so close to the trail could have gone unclimbed, even though it is 3 miles down trail. I would gladly update this page if anyone has any information on it.

Stand start the vertical face to the slabby topout.

The crux is the top out. The middle part is the best. Fun problem. Good holds.

The crux is the move when you have a pinch with your right hand and a sidepull with your left hand, then grabbing the crimp afterwards is difficult.

Nice, water polished bulge below

Afro Bush

with cool slopers.  SDS makes it more challenging.

Start with left hand on bottom hold of the far left arete and the jugs under the roof. Heel hooking is also helpful.

Stand start the NW Arete is a good V5.  Sit start makes it V9 "ish"

On Tier 2, this route traverses in on slopers from the left and enters the topout of Bear Trap.

Sit start way under the roof on good holds. Move left to gain access to a thin seam that climbs out the steep roof to a juggy topout.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bear Canyon Bouldering