Get standing on the starting left hand jug horn thing, then easy cruising to the top.

Take Two

Family Affair

Popcorn

Nasubi

Afternoon Delight

Qisma (kiss-mah)

Project 2

Jackknife

Ryan 10a

Old Man Smoldering (OMS)

Pele

Reflections

Going Far Away Again

Sean 10c

Shake Hands With Bigger Things

Ticks

Symbiosis

Mermar

Hotel Catahoula

Lakota Son

Bring Your Own Paddle (BYOP)

Secret Hurl

Uncle Steve's Horrible Offwidth

The Dogfather's First Rodeo

Suka Extension (OPEN PROJECT)

Poison Ivy

Nutella Sugarglider

Baby Come Home

Gary Gnu

Jaguar Shark

Suka

Lost Soul

Lakota Son Rise

Project

Machine Gun Whiskey

Love's Labor

Jeff 10a

A couple delicate moves to pull the roof. Gain the seam on the left (crux) and make your way up easier terrain with the occasional thin spot.

This is a short route with a little overhang at the top.  It is on the far Left (north) side of Warmup wall 

  There is a second set of top anchors just to the right of the top of Family Affair.  It provides a top rope variation, but has not been cleaned.

Climb initial easy slab (1st bolt) up to a no hands ledge. From there, get the high clip, then do the sick POP-jump start, or fail on some ridiculous static crimp beta (just POP). Enjoy some of the largest jugs on this planet to the roof. Giddyup on outta there into the light. The second half is pure exposure and a nice stroll through the park.

Use the arete left of the chimney to the slab finish.  Tricky foot work leaving the second bolt and a hidden crimp to gain the third. 

  Cleaned in a passing rain storm and bolted in a swarm of flies and gnats.  Good times. 

  Stay on the arete for full value.  For a more moderate variation, stem across chimney.

Qisma has a little bit of everything: tall, technical, tricky slab section, multi-dimensional corner climbing, tiny holds, jugular holds, and an airy roof section to finish things up all fancy-thug-like.  

  In Arabic, Qisma (kiss-ma) means: "to trust in your journey." 

  NOTE: when cleaning, climber should clip her end back into the leaver biner on second bolt to avoid lowering over sharp edges out right.    PLEASE LEAVE BINER IN SECOND BOLT.

This route shares the start of Lost Soul.  Climb the first half of lost soul up to where the hand crack heads out left.  At this point follow the easy dihedral up to the bottom of a big roof.  Follow 4 bolts out and over the left side of the roof.  A bouldery move to get above the roof. 

  This route has not had a free ascent yet

Easier 5.10 climbing for the first half gets you up to the roof encounter, where you traverse left to a good stance before a might slab/arete/dihedral. Get into the good fight and use your toes to finish this wonderful rig!

Just Right of Old Man Smoldering.  Stand on angled block.  Get your left foot up and left hand and bump to right hand jug.  Eases up after this and enjoy to the top. 

  Sorry for picking a name Ryan, just want to get the route in

Surprisingly long. Big holds with fun climbing to a nice, exposed and technical finish. Another gem from the legend.

Scramble up giant ledges to first bolt. Initiate perfect crimp ledge climbing on immaculate white rock. Ends on first roof.

Bouldery through a grey/black streaky roof. Cool crux sequence involving a right hand super-pinch. Dynamic move in the middle of the roof to a Hero Hold jug.   The bolting looks a little run out but feels good once you are on-route. Good stances for clipping, so don't worry yourself.

Starts with first bolt of Baby Come Home (or stick clip to second bolt - recommended) then take bolt line to right. 

  Often wet slab start (still doable!) leads to mini roof pull to a shelf rest. Short lived crux is on you beyond the ledge. Pull on a few small crimps over the second roof to easier climbing above.

Starts left of Jeff 10a using dihedral, jug crack, arete, and whatever else you can do to make it happen.  After 3 bolts, joins Jeff 10a to the finish.

Figure out how to get the crimps over the lip and then get over the lip

This route is on the far right side of the tallest part of Warmup wall.  There are small edges with a fun mantle just before the anchors.

Start on same start as Reflections, but head right through the roof.

Route equipped by first-time equipper Emily Merhar and FA'd by first time FAer Marianne Bird.    A very enjoyable slab route with good holds all the way. Gorgeous position on the wall.

A sexy, yosemite-like, push-press-pull-punch dihedral that will take your cerebellum by the ear, whip its tiny little cerebellum ass, then hang it by its underwear in its locker. 

  In the corner, your hopes threatening to make a run for it, you ask yourself: "How in the hell do I get out of this wicked dihedral into that big momma jug on the arete?" 

  Might be harder for those under 5.8. Please please please, will someone with less vertical advantage show us the rad beta?

This route is a large corner that comes directly out of the lake.  There is a crack in the corner that varies from tips to fist. At the top the route traverses a couple feet to the left under a roof with a fist crack in it.  Above the roof is a typical south Canadian jungle.  Belay off of trees. Bring a brush as this route was not cleaned with a brush on the FA. 

  Use the stashed canoe at Secret Lake.  Bring your own paddles.

An excellent and varied trad route. Bolted anchor so the route can also be top-roped as a warm up. Follow the prominent crack up the tree half-way up the route. Gear is a little smaller through here but there are ample opportunities for good placements. The second half of the route starts out thin but progressively gets larger until you reach the large intimidating roof split by a crack. Figure out a way through this and reach the bolted anchors or top out. Descent is either rappelling the route or the walk off/scramble to climbers left.

The route starts at the base of an obvious wide crack in an inside corner ten feet to the right of "Baby Come Home".  Use stemming, lie-backs, chimney, and offwidth techniques to ascend about 60 feet up the crack until you reach the ledge below the roof near the top of the wall.  Traverse left about five feet around the roof (crux) then up five feet to the bolted anchors.

Do you like cruiser trad climbing on excellent stone? Do you like pulling cruxes over the comfort of bolts with clean falls into space? Do you like a little funky, full body trickiery in your diet that causes  your friends flop, flail, grunt and curse while you artfully mantle? 

  Then this line is for you!! 

  Certainly a one sequence wonder, but the aesthetic position of the line probably makes up for it. Bring your leather chaps and A game if you don't want to get bucked off at this Rodeo.

Crazy hard roof pull. This would be SO COOL if someone could do it. I feel that it has to be 13+ maybe 14a. Not sure if it even goes, but it should.

The first 30 feet or so of this route are on vertical clean rock with some interesting movement.  There is a difficult move after clipping the first bolt.  After the first half you turn a lip and finish the route on 30' of slab.  Like all good slabs, this is smearing on little edges and dishes.

Stick clip the first bolt. Pull the burly, physical crux off the ground and then enjoy easy terrain to a thin, technical crux in the middle. Good holds the rest of the way, you just have to find them. When you find one of the coolest right hand crimp sidepulls ever, say howdy to for me.  

  NOTE: when cleaning, climber should clip her end back into the leaver biner on second bolt to avoid lowering over sharp edges out left.    PLEASE LEAVE BINER IN SECOND BOLT.

Take on immediate lower slab crux, into massive jug haul. Enjoy runout from 2nd to 3rd bolt on 5.6 climbing. Stem slightly into dihedral, then secure incut hero holds for the overhang. Take a breath on big ledge, then summon a little courage to commit through redpoint crux on the immaculate upper slab on fantastic crimp ledges. As usual, stellar rock

Furthest left route at Secret Lake. Easy and fun slab climb, with some of the greatest bolt placements ever achieved.

Climb the exquisite crimp section of Pele up into a sit-down rest out right. Check your radar. That sumbitch is heading for the South Pacific. Go get him.   Pull the improbable roof on a hold you probably shouldn't be holding. Enjoy another no-hands rest before the creep up into the finishing slab/dihedral balance-fest. A tad scary and desperate.    Luckily, your little yellow submarine has never failed you and never will. Watch him come in hard and fast and gorgeous and say out loud: "I wonder if it remembers me?"

Climb face up into a crack feature. Watch your leg + rope as you pull up into the crack. Grit yer teeth a little as you feel like a bad ass animal.

After passing Poison Ivy, you will see a large right facing dihedral.  On the left wall is a short thin hand crack.  This makes up the middle of Lost Soul.  Above it is a thin seem that is only used for protection.  Use a #1 camalot at the top of the thin had crack to protect the crux, which is pulling up onto a good 4" ledge.  You may be able to get some small stoppers in here before pulling onto the ledge.  There are plenty of face holds above the crux and you will need a #0.4 camalot and a #2 and or #3 for the top.

Extremely detail-oriented and tension-filled crux boulder through the roof. Be thankful that you have heels that can be hooks. If you don't have heels, I am sorry.

In the middle of Warmup Wall is a bolted route that is slightly off vertical with small edges.  This route has been cleaned, but never redpointed

Overhanging start with committing moves, on up to good holds and easy breezy finish.

This route is the second established route you will pass while walking along the ledge above the lake. There is an obvious horizontal flake on it you will see about half the way up the route where it starts to get steep.  Up to this point the route is easily protected with a few medium sized cams.  After you reach the flake, there are 2 bolts that protect the crux because it is not easily protected with trad gear.  After the two bolts follow the overhanging corner to the anchors.  There is good holds and good gear here.

The obvious wide crack through the middle of the roof section.  No crack climbing required.  All jugs through the roof

This crag is actually in Canada, so you will have to clear Canadian customs on Sandpoint lake or have an RABC permit.  These two crags offer some moderate sport routes and trad routes.  The warmup wall is about 40' tall and has 3 routes.  There is some more potential, but it needs a bit of cleaning.  

  Secret lake is between 65'-75' tall and has a variety of route types and grades

Description

Protection

Routes in Secret Lake and Warmup wall