I looked at this thing for five years and finally got to it on the same day we did Flank Steak. Herb courageously led the first bush-and-sand pitch on-sight, drilled the belay bolt and it was game on. I got the top anchor in after some 5.10 C1 effort and we got to TR it just long enough to whet our appetites. After two more tries, on a random smash-and-grab day I was able to free it. Many thanks to Herb, Ed and Gaar for going down with me to climb on this amazing addition. This thing is incredible. I chose the name because I don't fully understand sweetbreads. They're supposed to be a delicacy but they seem disgusting in theory. At first glance from the ground the pillar guarding the real climb may look repulsive, but if you can stomach that (actually good in its own way), you're rewarded by yet another one of the great culinary masterpieces at this wall.

It starts off with the reason it hasn't been done. This pitch is only about 30ft to the ledge, where you'll find a belay bolt that can be equalized with a BD .2 or a blue Alien or comparable. The main event lies above.

The pitch starts off with what is likely 5.11 less-than-tips in a slab of wavy, featured rock that then turns into the classic 2nd Meat Wall amazing black varnish. After the initial section, a tips or slightly-less-than boulder problem leads to a brief change of corners and then about 50ft of perfect purple Camalots in the left-facing corner to the chains. There are fortuitous rests in the upper section that keep it from being as hard as something like End of The Line, but it's similar in style albeit shorter. Enduro fat fingers in amazing stone. The rock on this pitch is of the highest quality, and it's got a great blend of styles. There is some lichen, but in my opinion it doesn't detract one iota from the quality of the climb. Dust your feet off on your cuffs for the first section.

Sweetbread

Tube Steaks Tomorrow

Sesh One Cooking

Carnivore

T-Bones Tonight

Two Timer

Humble Pie

Tofu Crack

Kelley Route #53

Meat Machine

Unknown R of Tube Steaks

Evening Ecstacy

At Your Cervix

Nerve Damage

The Switch

Soylent Green

Mad Cows

Bacon in the Sun

Meat ya later

End Of The Line

Family Home Night

Meating Jesus

Samarai Loving

Hot Pork Sundae

Butcher's Dog

Meat Hucker, (AKA:Idaho Flake)

Kelley Route #56

Low Cholesterol

Meat Your Maker

The Pastafarian

Swedish meat balls

Bro Shoe Dough

Camping Under the Influence

Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter

Gouge On It

Kelley Route #54

Mouse Meat

Cube Steaks

Extra Lean

Two Timer II

Sweet Meats

Boss Hog

The Potato

Smell the Meat

Green Eggs & Ham

Ninja Bedwetter

Pleased To Meat You

No more meatloaf

Flank Steak

Top Sirloin

Two pitch route way left on the dark side of the wall. Face climb into tips splitter 5.12. Then an arching second pitch 5.13+. Perhaps Indian Creek's hardest established line.

The first pitch is a good route in its own right. The gear placed before stepping into the splitter seems a little hollow, but you will get a good stance after stepping in to place a more inspiring cam before the burl begins. 30m.

Mason Earle on the 2nd pitch "The marathon pitch culminates with a wicked left-leaning, narrowing finger splitter. The featureless left wall further increases the desperate nature of the climb, forcing you to smear your left foot above your waist." 40m

Tube Steaks is found just to the right from the top of the approach trail.  Locate a left leaning left facing thin hands corner capped by a huge big hands roof, this is T-Bones Tonight.  The next route right is the left facing corner, Tube Steaks.  The start is fingers to an off-hands slot for a couple feet.  Pull up into a short tight hands section that felt cruxy to me, keep thugging up the nice hand crack, which opens up into a pod at 60 feet and romp to the top.  Visible above this pitch is the vicious Carnivore steep off-width splitter.  A three-star pitch at any wall in the Creek.

A good tune up for Top Sirloin -- a lot of thin hands in a corner.

There are two sections separated by a large ledge: the lower is about 40', the upper 80'.  The lower section starts with easy scrambling, then easy stemming, then goes to off vertical rattly fingers in a corner and corner and finishes with easy face climbing on rotten rock -- watch out for the X-block

The upper section is almost all thin hands with occasional stem rests -- the crack gradually thins so save your smaller stuff for the top.

Splitter Offwidth. 2nd pitch of Tube steaks tomorrow.

T-Bones takes the large left-facing corner just a little bit right from where the trail hits the wall.  It's a beautiful layback & gradually widening hand crack up to a large, wonderful #3 Camalot roof.

A very good line, but not a great warm-up as it is a little pumpy for the grade.  The crack does have some variety, but no less gets pretty pumpy and is considerably harder than the nearby climbs Even Ecstacy (9+), Mouse Meat (10+), or Tofu Crack (10-), which make better warm-ups.

Bloom suggests that TR'ing the finger crack left of this from the same anchor (Two Timer II, a 5.12-) is "added fun" but I beg to differ. It is rattly for small fingers and soft rock with no feet and plenty of lichen. Thanks anyway- after stacking fingers for 50' of foot-skidding fun once, I'll put my energy, knuckles and skin into a different line next time. This one felt more like 12+ and not high quality. Fat fingered people might like it better.

At first glance Humble Pie looks dangerous and sandbagged. However the climbing is relatively safe and the rating is solid for the grade. The quality of the rock is just about perfect and the climbing is extremely fun and varied. Humble Pie is a route Im sure  youll enjoy.

This route starts in a left facing corner near the far left side of 2nd Meat Wall.  It is one of the "cleaner" routes we found on this somewhat obscure wall.  Start off climbing a pedestal via easy OW moves to the base of the beautiful crack.

Good hands and a parallel crack(seam) to the left, leads to a small roof.  Crank through the roof (perfect hands #2 camalot) to another smaller roof.  Turn the roof (you can get a .75 camalot before you commit) and enter a sweeet layback section after which, you get a great rest on a small ledge. Pull through yet another roof (#2 camalots) and top out at the chains (#1 before the chains)

A stellar long left-facing corner, on the far left side of the wall.  Rarely gets climbed because the guide has no description. Stellar climbing awaits. Starts with great hands to a ledge. Now crank 30 feet of stacks (green camalots) in a corner, to another ledge.  Now, the main corner goes from hands, to thin hands to off width, back to hands..then finishes with more off width.

Meat Machine is located to the right from the top of the approach trail to the 2nd Meat Wall.  Follow the wall around and locate a steep blunt arete leading to a steep thin crack.  The face has two pins in a horizontal crack.  This is E. Coli.  Located 20 feet right of this climb is a thin hands flake leading to a right leaning overhang.  The anchor can be seen at 50 ft.  Pull over a bulge into the left facing corner and thin hands crack and cruise up great jams with some feet on the right to an awkward pull around the steep right trending crack.  Short but fun this climb is not a classic, but it's worth the time.

Just right of

Tube Steaks Tomorrow

is an eight-foot tall roof with a hand crack on its left margin.  Jam and stem through the roof (being wary of slightly sandy rock) to a ledge above.  Off the ledge, jam the hands and thin-hands corner to a slot, and ascend the face and thin, left-facing corner above until a short but tech-y traverse can be made to the anchors above

Tube Steaks Tomorrow

.

An unreadable plaque lies at the base of this climb because someone decided to scratch out the name and over-write it with the words "Bad Bolt."

THe bottom bolt of the anchor is indeed bad (refer to note on Protection) and should probably be replaced with a 1/2" in the same hole. The problem with this scribble job is that all you can read is gibbersh, so you don't know he name of the route or that there is a bad bolt until you come down and having already learned that, can decipher the plaque.

At the far left side of the lighter wall just left of Tofu Crack there are 3 climbs, Mouse Meat, a 140' tall 5.10+ crack route, then an unnamed 5.10 left-facing Flake, then this route, which ascends a crack system just at the left edge of the wall.  Start up in one crack and just when it runs out, move left 5' into a different crack.  The transition is the crux and can be protected well on a few cams on either side.

This is a reasonable warm-up route for the wall but is not typical of indian creek- the rock is a little softer and lighter and there are more holds and less pure crack climbing.

At Your Cervix is the first line right of Carnivore (the obvious splitter offwidth second pitch to Tube Steaks).

Begin by pulling some funky moves through some broken rock and then layback the crack above.

Just left of "Camping Under the Influence."  This route starts with two short lieback sections into a tight corner that is mostly thinner hands.  As the hands pinch down to fingers another crack opens and widens to tight hands with one or two fingery locks below the anchors.

Climb an off-fingers left facing corner through a small roof where you come around the arete to climb the right facing corner for another 20 feet.

SOYLENT GREEN IS PEOPLE! This pitch is mysteriously neglected. Excellent climbing on good rock, with good protection and thought-provoking moves throughout.

This route has a faint plaque that says 'Mad Cows' at the base.  It is a lot of fun with a variety of short cruxes including fingers to (short) OW.  Scramble 10ft to large ledge. Squeeze (protected by .5 or 6 C4) to smaller ledge with 4in crack that abruptly shuts down to finger crack in left facing corner.  Traverse to flake on the face to the right of the corner and

beware of loose block

(or continue up chossy corner for 10ft to excellent hand crack).  Continue up big hands flake to anchors right of a 6ft roof (or continue up excellent hand crack and traverse under roof to anchors; both ~5.10).

Back up anchor with #1 and/or #2 C4.

This is the second and third pitch to At Your Cervix-the gorgeous zig-zagging splitter just right of Carnivore.

From the top of At Your Cervix, climb up the chimney until you can join the splitter crack on the left face. Continue up to a nice ledge. 100'ish. 5.11+

Final pitch- climb the overhanging splitter. 50' 5.12

rap with two ropes, unless you don't mind rapping off the single bolt atop the second pitch, in which case, you can get down fine with a single 70m rope.

This route is to the left of Schezuan Cooking, and it requires a bit of scrambling to get to its start.

The climb follows a shallow, left-facing corner that arcs gracefully to the left and morphs into an intimidating roof with anchors just after the lip.

The first crux is leaving the ground to gain the seam (#00 Metolious) and is protected by a bolt. The crack gets better, the corner gets bigger and the rock gets steeper. After several fun moves on perfect hands, the feet disappear and the crack gets wide (4.5/5 Camalot) at the lip of the roof. Hang out at the last hand jams, think about the move, and go for it.

At first the wideness felt desperate and miserable, but once I figured out the beta, the moves at the end seemed like the best ones.

The anchors were old -- a classic array of drilled angles and Bandito bolts caked heavily with tat -- so maybe bring a knife and fresh webbing.

As Bloom says in his guidebook, "Off-fingers laybacking forever!"

This is the gorgeous varnished right-facing corner with anchors way up in the heavens.  No moves harder than 5.10!

Stellar route with difficult moves between good rests.  Steep hands lead to angling off fingers and a switch around a pillar.  Small nuts and a .00 TCU help protect a few faces moves up to a rest.  Fire the crux off-fingers splitter which barely widens to thin hands at the top.  Relish how fun the route was.

Now I've climbed plenty of stupid choss in my life, and this one? Let's just say that it is a contender! Are you warming up for Fisher Towers? Why else come to the creek to climb dirt?

Start off on an ultra-thin corner with a thin crack (Lowe balls) and a skinny tower to the right. step off the tower when it is reduced to a stack of wobbling toaster-oven sized blocks and commit to a finger-tips lieback on a thin flake of soft rock with questionable small- cam placements to go up to a better stance. Start groveling up the inconsistent crack in a broken-looking notch/corner. This is followed through some poor jams in some dry-mud-caked rock with flares and poor gear. Continue past a small roof on bad jams in dirt with slick (dusty) feet on nothing.  Don't fall when the few remaining footholds break off from under you.

Finally, place a #4 camalot and pull into a right-facing corner up top where good rock and good gear take you up the only 40' of rock in 110' worth climbing.

The last poor fool to do this route about 'Met Jesus' on his way down! The anchors when I arrived were terrible. A 1/2-cut 1" sling on a single bolt and a 9/16" sling on pinched behind a washer (no hanger) on an angled bolt. The 9/16" was burned more than 1/2 way through by someone lowering after threading it and was melted and burned black on the remaining amount (perhaps 3/16"). It was so crispy  that it had to be cut from behind the washer to get it off. Both slings were bleached completely white.

The washer was spaced perfectly to pop in some 8mm cord behind it (I did) and I re-threaded the bolt as well with some newer webbing.  There is now a locking biner and an oval up top.

If some poor bastard actually ever does the route again, at least he'll have an anchor to retreat from instead of "Meeting Jesus" up there.

Start up through poor rock which leads to a short chimney then up a nice, right-facing corner.

Start up the left side of a 50 foot tall pillar. Follow a mostly-fingers crack through a series of roofs and corners to the anchor. Interesting climbing and better than it looks, a good option when the crag is busy.

A good climb with some interesting flake climbing. The top half is more typical of Indian Creek- being a shallow corner with a great hand-jams section.

Start up the right edge of a huge flake, perhaps 15 meters tall. IT is shaped somewhat abstractly like the state of Idaho, if you can imagine its proportion stretched in the north-to-south direction a few times over.  Step left at the top of the flake and climb a shallow right-facing corner to the top, to a 2-bolt anchor just below a roof.

A single 70M rope will get you down with a few feet to spare.

Straight-in crack. Start up off-fingers through hands to a wedge. Continue up though a bombay to the final offwidth.

The plaque at the base of this thing is hard to read but it says "Low (unreadable) 5.10 4/06"

Start about 50ft. left of Samurai Loving in a slightly offset splitter offwidth.  It's pretty consistent with a slightly wider spot at mid height.  Rap from chain anchors.

A slightly awkward start leads into the initial corner. Steep fingers and tips climbing leads to the very difficult and puzzling crux crack switch, protected by small gear. Above, finger tip climbing with good face holds leads to a good rest. Strange chimneying leads to one more hard move getting established near the anchor.

This is a great mixed climb that requires endurance stemming/chimneying and the ability to crank on first-digit locks.

Begin immediately right of Tofu Crack and head up a wide crack to the top of a large block.  Climb up sandy rock to a ledge below the business:  A long, narrowing finger crack on the right and an obtuse corner on the left.  Head up this with increasing difficulty to a bolt, then bust some creative moves past a difficult second clip, and finally some pumpy but secure locks to the anchor.

ok start up low angle ow #4 camalot - #6 it gets nasty hard at the top of this first part. saddle up on to the ledge with the old pin out right - the thing is great looking - clip and delicately climb past some hollow rock to some big pods, hand jams, then thin hands 2 inch to a good ledge. sack it up and go tight hands to ring locks that slam shut to .75 inch at 170 ft

The route is definitely better than the name. Climb the 5.9 #3 crack to the ledge. Stem through some soft rock, place a small cam, then pull into the crack. There is a cruxy section at the bulge which offers some cerebral climbing, then a stellar .4/.5 splitter. The big flake above climbs well and the back of the flare provides a good place for cams from .5-2 if memory serves correct. Bring slings for the upper section.

This climb starts up a deeply set crack on the right of the pillar, and then makes a cool transition to the left of the pillar about thirty feet up, or wherever you feel like it.  Most of the rest of the route is a cool finger crack with plenty of feet and stances.  Finally, the last twenty feet the crack gets off-fingers, offset, the feet disappear, and it leans to the right.  This is the crux.  Like Annunaki or Sweden Ringle, the crux of this route is clipping the anchors.

This route lies a long way around the right side of the 2nd Meat Wall.  It is characterized by a wonderful section of splitter hands in a vertical wall.  This crack is just right of a highly visible tips splitter that I believe is yet unclimbed.  The route starts left of the hand crack at the left side of a blocky pillar.  Start at a finger crack in a corner and follow the low-angle blocky corner to reach the base of the vertical splitter (about 50 feet).  Pull off the pillar with a few tight hands moves and cruise up the gorgeous perfect hands crack for about 50 feet.  Here the crack decreases in angle and increases in size to an offwidth slot.  Squeeze through this section to reach an anchor on the wall left of the crack at 130 ft.  Don't be intimidated by the offwidth, it is probably only 5.8 or something, and the section of hands is well worth the walk and the discontinuity.

Tight hands off the ground to a crack switch then past some pods to a hand crack.

A good pitch with lots of variety. This climb requires 2 ropes to get down from.

Not far left of Tofu Crack the wall is light in color and sports a few more lines not in Bloom's Book.  The right most of these has a plaque labeled "Mouse Meat 5.10+" which seemed accurate enough.  The climb starts vertical and goes to slightly less than vertical in a decent crack system, though it is not the typical Windgate varnished brown patina of the area.  Climb 150' to a bolted anchor and rap on 2 ropes.  There is a no-hands rest about 40' up that a TR climber can sit in for a "switch" of the belay if you have tied two 70m ropes together to do that.

At the top of the approach trail to the 2nd Meat Wall follow the wall for a long ways around to the right eventually passing a large boulder leaning up against the wall.  The first route past this boulder is Cube Steaks, just left of a striking thin splitter called Family Home Night.  Cube Steaks climbs a thin hands crack in a blocky straight in corner.  The anchor is visible at 110 ft.  For the most part this climb is characterized by a crack move or two supplemented by big face holds for hands and feet.  The only continuous section of crack climbing lies in the final 20 feet and is protected by 2 Friends or Green Camalots.  There are higher quality lines on this wall at this grade, so I wouldn't necessarily recommend it.  But if you're in the mood for an atypical Indian Creek route this should suffice.

This is the obvious, chalked up off-finger splitter just right of top sirloin. Climb the splitter to a ledge (orange tcu). Continue up the narrowing crack using a bizarre horizontal lieback technique to another small ledge (yellow and blue tcu). Some corner changing and occasional face holds get you to the anchor (purple tcu, black alien).

Quinlin put the anchors on this, but Steve “Roadie” Steats got the FFA (on sight) out climbing with Q. and Friends

Bloom suggests that TR'ing this finger crack is "added fun" after doing Two Timer (10+). It is certainly easy enough to do while lowering from the shared anchor.  It might be loads of fun for those with someone with razor-thin toes and fat fingers, or a 50' skid -fest for those with small fingers. This one felt more like 12/12+ to me and not high quality at the time.  "Ninja Bedwetter" and "Extra Lean" are cleaner and have much nicer rock!

Edit to add:

I gave this route 1 star because at the time I did it, it was full of loose sand, a problem noted by the guidebook author at the time.  It has apparently cleaned up quite a bit and may deserve a better rating at this time - and consensus appears to reflect that.

A short warm up just to the right of Tofu crack, slightly kicked back. There are some no hands rests midway up the route. Not a terrible climb although no classic. Not sure of FA initials on plaque were RF I believe. Same ascentionist as Boss Hogg which is just to the left of Low Cholesterol.

OW right off the ground leads in to a flare with a rail on the right then cups for 15 feet to a 5 inch roof.  Pull said roof with help from face moves on right this should be the crux after that more grunting will see you to the anchors...

This is the last route to the right on the 2nd Meat Wall, just as the rock turns from the dark red to white and gets good morning sun in the winter.

Scramble up 10ft. of blocks to a 20ft. long offwidth in a left facing dihedral.  Beware of a loose block wedged inside the offwidth that you can shift just enough to make a good tight-hands jam beside.  The crack widens into a chimney and has a short section of sandy/bad rock.  Work up to a roof requiring some interesting body movement, then pull over into a real tight-hands crack in lower angled rock to a bolted anchor.  A 70meter rope will let you safely lower down onto the boulders 10ft. up and can easily scramble down the remaining few feet.

two cracks left of "tofu crack".100' flake with 15 feet of uprotectable facey start.double fixe anchors.

This route starts off with low angle hands in a left facing corner and gradually gets wider and steeper all the way to the anchor.

Easy fingers with feet to some runout face, bumping a #4, to a thin hands splitter which rolls over into a thinner hands corner up into a closed book, some more fingers, a stemmy roof and a tips and less than tips finish. Most excellent.

Vague and slightly incorrect rack in the Bloom guide lead me to believe he had not done the route...Also not quite 5.12.

Sure looks cool from the ground and it actually is a good line with nice moves down low but...Heads Up!!

The first 10 or so feet hold the crux section with small pro and committing moves while the upper two thirds is classic finger tip/finger dihedral liebacking. Crispy/fragile edges add to the excitement at the crux start with a good offset brass piece up to red  and yellow Micro-Camalot size pro backed up with a #2 Camalot out left. Dicing it out at its best!

Definitely a great route but! Dang keep it together the pro isn’t the best wouldn’t wanna blow it on a small cam in a marginal placement. Heads up bring your nuts up ahah

Start in a chimney to the main left facing corner. Climb the corner with all sizes of fingers!! Passing occasional pods

This thing has some amazing rock! Joe and I saw it early this Winter and then Herb and I went back to get it done on a random free day. I was able to lead it on-sight for what is likely the easiest/best combo FA I've found at The Creek. If this thing wasn't up on a bit of a ledge it would have been done and would be considered classic. It IS ultra classic so go seek it out. This route is yet another reason that the 2nd Meat Wall should be a candidate for best overall wall at The Creek.

Top Sirloin is a very clean left-facing corner of amazing uniformity, plaqued, to the left of Tube Steaks etc. which are at the top of the trail.  It's all about thin hands in a corner.  My large-handed buddy found the crux to be about 40 feet up in a shallow flare where he found it necessary to pull on a couple of #2 Friends; I was able to free this while placing red camalots (hence the 'optional' #2 F's). A 60m rope was barely workable.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2nd Meat Wall