From the PCT going north, scramble up a series of ledges to below the overhang. From a large angular boulder at the

base

use a side pull and an incut to pull the overhang to a stance in a

depression

. Continue climbing on amazing incuts up the slightly overhanging blocky groove to a balancy move up a right leaning flake to reach a large triangular ledge. Climb the final headwall either straight up, palm the rounded arete to the right, or move left to climb the face using small holds in the seam to the anchor.

Do the Hokey Pokey

Strung Out

The Gecko

Banana Town

The Monkey Seems Willing

Jungle Gym

Jungle gym pursues several variations, and the 5.9-5.10c options listed in the new Tahoe guide (Jackson) are fairly unclear to this climber in their exact paths.

First clip a bolt from the ground that protects the low crux. Left or right? Perhaps left is 5.9. The right, direct variation off the bolt, however, is far harder than 5.10c, and seems more like something to work with a boulder pad.

Delicate traversing and counter-pressure climbing up and right over an overhanging block to gain a horizontal crack using a .4-.5" piece to protect a ground fall after the bolt follows.

From here, at least three variations appear to exist:

1) straight up over an overhanging bulge and then a shallow crack to the top

2) right and then left, to largely circumvent the bulge

or,

3) keep traversing right and then eventually up

It's a jungle gym!

Follow a near-horizontal crack that traverses rightward across the wall. Finish on Jungle Gym.

A fun, easy climb with that also makes for a good photo op. Almost like a shorter, easier On the Lamb.. almost. Make sure to think about leaving gear for the follower.

This climb starts with bolted chickenhead climbing that is fun and fairly atypical of the Donner area. Gain the horizontal crack and place protection. The end is some balancey face climbing on gear.

A hand and finger crack to a horizontal break followed by bolted slab, a trip to Banana Town might be a slightly head's up journey for the newly minted 5.8 leader but is overall a good warmup for the crag.

Unprotected for the first 15', but the climbing is large jugs. Nestled under the roof, you realize how far it is up to that rail over the roof. Options will include: shallow, razor sharp crystal pockets, inadequate underclings, and sloping nonsense. That is, until you find the hidden hold!

After the roof, there is one more section relying some fierce crimping and a transition into some liebacking before the climb eases up towards the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Baboon Crag