Considering the rock quality in a couple sections, a few insecure moves and the wide crack, that would be a burly solo! I can't decide what is more sick...Peter Croft's onsight solo or Walt Shipley's after doing the route roped and knowing what to expect!!

The route is exciting and physical and a must do for the High Sierra tick list.

Pitch 1: 3 options...Center option is a groove to a roof (slightly loose) (9+, 115').

Pitch 2: Easiest free version is to step down and traverse right on the lower crack approximately 20' where its possible to move back up to the upper crack at a good jug in between. Clip a pin and wiggle up to a roof. Fun finger/hand crack changes to a lieback to a sloping ledge where you can go left or right to end on the upper ledge with multiple 3rd pitch options (10, 200').

Pitch 3: If on the right side of the upper ledge...Go up a flake to a broken left facing corner and a piton belay on a ledge (8+, 120').

Pitch 4: Pick the easiest run out path to the corner chimney (which you don't really chimney, stay outside) (7+, 110').

Pitch 5: Hand and fists in the corner to a 6-7" OW/stem over a bulge passing old bolts. Continue up the 7-8" OW/Squeeze with a lonely old bolt to a a good ledge (10, 150'). #3 and #4 BigBro's may be nice.

Pitch 6: Go right on the ledge and up the obvious left facing corner with two bolts. At the second bolt make a wild traverse right to the finger cack groove with a squeeze finish to a jumbled ledge (10-, 190').

Pitch 7: Move right and up a bizarre corner system with a strenuous lieback. Follow broken rock to a sloping ledge under a flared goove (9+, 190').

Pitch 8: Up the groove and follow the natural weakness for a 190' pitch (5.5).

Pitch 9: 200+' fourth class loose grooves to the summit.

South West Face (Harding) Route

North Ridge

West Ridge

Unfinished

Tuolumne Alpine Triple Crown

Friendly Muscle

Walk up ledge, traverse right to corner system, climb to top.

A fun back country route.  Just stay on the ridge as much as possible for the best climbing on the best granite.

There's  the Tuolumne Triple Crown: Tenya to Full NS Mathes to South Buttress of Cathedral

How about the Alpine Version?

North Ridge North Peak to Conness NR down and around to Conness W Ridge, an outstanding link-up,

Park at Saddlebag Lakes, consider a shuttle car at the Sawmill Campground to save a 2-mile backtrack uphill. Cross the dam and along the N shore of Saddlebag Lake, cut north near Greenstone Lake, and head to Sardine Lake. Cross over and pick your way up to the NR of N Peak, enjoying the views of the rock and ice climbs on N Peak. N Peak NR is very casual with a few spans easily downclimbed in and out. Make sure to summit. Use this 1st route as a litmus test. If you need gear and belays on this route, turn around after the summit or plan on at least two days. Now trudge over to Conness and do the NR. Info provided on that page. After pondering bailing, go down to the West Ridge and climb back to the summit. West Ridge beta on its own page. Now if you want to make it back to your car instead of hiking out sawmill, hike along the East Ridge after exiting the plateau area and downclimbing the scree trail, looking for a low angled snow tongue just a few feet down a rocky gully. If it looks terrifying you aren't there yet. Ax/Spikes needed in all but the slushiest conditions. Now pick your way down whatever way you think is fastest and regain the standard approach for the NR of Conness and back to the car.

The route follows a very large and very beautiful left-facing dihedral for about two or three pitches. The dihedral provides fantastic climbing in the corner, though sometimes the jugs out on the exposed right arete are just too alluring. Alas, this feature comes to an end, and so does the fun. A couple or three "stunningly" mediocre pitches wander up to end up pretty much right at the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mt. Conness