Listed as a project in the

Eleven Miles to Freedom Guide

, this climb takes the stunning features up the center of the right side of this cliff.  Climb a bouldery but relatively easy start past the first 3 bolts, then launch into the powerful, sloper, undercling crux (V8) which deposits you below a small roof on a good undercling pocket.  Do one of the most unique moves at Elevenmile, involving a huge Tom Cruise-esque cross over to a good crimp, and finish up the unique V4 above.  Great climbing!

River of Dreams

Inception

After School Special

Start on easy climbing past the first bolt, then continue straight up, and climb just left of an obvious ledge. Keep pulling until a hard undercling crux at 2/3 height. Move slightly right then back to the anchors. This is a classic route in Heaven's Gate and one of the best 13s in the area.

On the far right side of the Inception wall, this route begins by soloing up the easy, 20 foot, 5.7 slab to clip a bolt at the break.  Launch off into the next boulder problem, which involves a big throw off decent crimps to the good jug up left (V6 or 7).  Finish up the fantastic boulder problem above the big jug to anchors very close to those of the route to the left.

While this is an upgrade from the guide, many of the routes in Heaven's Gate have been dubbed "hard for the grade", and this upgrading should be closer to the correct grade.

This is not the best route on the wall, but the boulder problem up top and the satisfaction of sticking the big throw make it worth the effort!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Inception Wall