Climb over a block to the start of the climb. From there, you will find a nice crack to the left of the corner and a second thinner crack that forms the corner itself. Climb these, protecting where necessary, up to the block that forms a roof. Go around the block and over the birch tree, then through the remaining blocks at the top. The very top can be dirty and covered in lichen and pine needles, so be careful when walking off. 

  This is an interesting 5.6, because it is slightly overhung, but all of the handholds are large and solid. Feet can be a little tricky to find and can require a little balancing work.

Birch Tree Corner

Saco Cracker

Mother Jugs & Speed

Roadside Attraction

The V Groove

Monarch Butterfly

Helping Hands

Slightly Less Than Zero

Shadow at Night

This climb is located where the approach trail meets the cliff. A hard start that keeps getting harder with erosion leads to easier jamming above.

This route climbs the steep bolted face just left of a dirty rotten corner. Climb the steep pumpy face on big holds. Make a delicate mantle to the trees above.

Locate a thin crack going up a shallow groove.Placng the gear is harder than it looks!Pitch 1: Hard moves to start, then climb the crack past a bolt to the top.

Climb the obvious "V Groove" using the hand crack on the left wall.  For added challenge try not to use the opposing wall.

A right facing corner with 2 parallel cracks.

A fun little crack in a water groove. The crux is at the start then nice stemming and jams to the trees.

A short, forested area tucked into the woods just above West Side Rd in North Conway.  Routes vary from traditional slab to very steep sport and mixed routes.  A great place for moderate top-roping with easy access to the top of the cliff and many trees for anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Saco Crag