The obvious crux is the severely overhanging roof. A thin finger crack leads to the tip and good locks allow mounting the roof edge. There is a RAD video of Mason Earle's second ascent found on Vedauwoo.org, 'Introduction' page next to 'Hand and Finger Cracks'. I will post the exact URL soon.

Yasha Hai

Ming Dyno

Bailong Elevator

Silk Road

Grab Your Genghis

Mandalay Me

Shanghaied in Chinatown

Confucius Says

The left-leaning ramp underlying route #2, it finishes up a blocky, near vertical chimney and is deceptively tough at the grade. This is route #1 on the

topo

.

Stand under a daunting roof with another several feet above. The crux is very obvious, a big throw and western roll will get you over the first one (see photo on the area page) with scanty pro underlying the second. It is definitely R in this portion of the climb. Grab whatever pro possible, and surmount the second, a less intimidating bulge to easier ground. Continue as shown in the topo with an easier jamcrack finish.

This is route #8 on the

topo

. Begin with a very thin corner which is somewhat friable in places. Delicate stems and fingers will get you to the obvious roof. Turn the roof, and carefully lieback past the large flake (right) to the ledge above, a good rest. Continue on good jams to the top, and belay on gear at the shelf. It is very adventurous.

Descent: the easiest is from the rap anchors atop Route #7. FYI: if you don't know what the Bailong Elevator is, Google it for surprising reading.

Due to the fact that gravity is continuously pulling you off the line, there are multiple cruxes on this daring, flaring offwidth. The start is rather dicey and strenuous. Have you ever climbed '

Peaches and Cream

' at Lumpy Ridge? While not as overhanging and long, this one shares the sketchiness. The pro is moderately difficult. Tape up! Belay on gear.

Rap from rings atop #7 or scramble up and downclimb the backside of the formation.

The crux is pulling out of overhanging hand jams about halfway up the route.

A steep, thin and stemmy start with scanty thin pro leads to decent hands and fingers to the obvious roof above. Go clear to the roof, and you may get Shanghaied. Set a long sling for rope engineering about 5' below the roof, and traverse out left on thin edges and fingers. Slip a cam into the roof edge with a long sling. Turn the roof, and either lieback or grovel to the rap rings above. Tie in at the rings or continue about 10' up and left to a shelf, and belay on gear.

This is route #4 on the

topo

. This is cool climbing at a recreational grade. The route takes lots of pro and goes to the top of the formation. Begin in the right-facing dihedral, and finish P1 at the spacious ledge which avoids rope drag.

P2. Continue up over blocks into a double dihedral, and finish at a 'natural belay seat' up top. This can be done in one continuous pitch with good rope engineering. Belay on gear.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chinatown