Start on the lowermost sloper jug and horizontal crack two feet off the ground with feet on the lowermost face of the boulder and a foot chip on the right face of the boulder. Proceed through though-provoking/non-obvious moves on decent holds to top out the boulder. A great route to work while your crusher friends project the Frenchman and Way of the Gun.

B-Team

The Frenchman

Octagon Control

Scream

Under the Bridge

Tan and High

Soft Goods

Way of the Gun

Way of the Gun (sit-start)

Start matched on an obvious flat ledge, climb straight up to top.  Avoid dabbing the slab out left.

This is as classic as NRG traverses get.  Start far left on underclings and make big, steep moves rightward.  Pull the reachy, shouldery crux moves, into a final heartbreaker sloper arete topout.  Starting at the crux is v7; the final arete is v5.

This is a super classic 2-3 move problem, depending on how you do it. Begin matched at an excellent pocket, then get set up on a sloping crimp and shallow pocket for a jump to jug.

Start on crimp around left side of boulder, move out left to another decent crimp using smeary feet, then shoot up to an amazing ledge. Finish straight up or by using gaston out left.

Climb the slab on the backside of Octagon Control boulder to the left of the blunt arete. Pretty much a short 5.7 slab.

Possibly the best beginner slab at The New. Climb the center of the slab towards the obvious iron circle. Not to be confused with the much more blank climb "Euphoria" that sits directly to its left.

Stand start on a sloping shelf and head up the slight weakness.  There is a sit-start to this that goes at v9.

This sit-start to the v4 "Way of the Gun" is repeated much less frequently than "Octagon Control." Start with a left hand sidepull and right pocket, find strange feet, and make your way up to the starting sloped jug of the stand-start.

Description

Location

Routes in Fayette Station Boulders