Layback crack on right side of boulder start to the Wino.

Thunderbird

The Wino

Slimfandel

Boones Farm Strawberry Hill Crack

The Red Blende.

Pinot Grief

Project of unknown difficulty.  Begins at the bottom of a large overhanging roof on the south end of the upper tier of rocks.  From the ground behind an ancient oregon grape bush, start up an offwidth chimney, then turn to the perfect diagonal finger crack which gains the boulders under the roof.  5.7From there the project is to pivot left and cross the overhanging wall to access the clean, hard arete to the top of the slab.  There is a top boulder above that can be bypassed on left or right.  There is a bolt at the top of the arete that allows the toprope to redirect properly on the arete.

Lower down to the bottom belay station ledge using either one of the "notched" stumps, or by lowing down the grassy steep slope using the single bolt and then down to the lower rap rings and then swinging left while lowering. From the bottom, follow the bolts up and left staying in the corner and using the deep crack for solid fingers (5.7). Continue up through the narrowing corner eventually slowing down with a careful mantle onto slabby face climbing. Finish on the face using careful footwork before reaching the anchor station. 

Fun layback crack ends on a ledge 25' up. 

Very fun route with everything you could want in a Callahans multipitch; lots of slab, laybacks, deep chimney, fist jams, and neat sedimentary geology!Pitch 1: Rappel off same anchor on top of cliff/below just south of the logging landing as Pinot Grief, start located 20 ft to north/climbers right of Pinot Grief.

 Rappel 2 pitches to bottom, start with either easier rounded ramp to left (5.8) , or with slabby near vertical face to first bolt (5.10+) at the obvious horizontal sandstone layer. Move up and into the large dish, powering up gingerly to the first crux and vertical face (5.9). Search for any small edge and find the eroded pocket from a mudstone rip-up clast for your right foot and high step with your left, while mantling in the dishes using limited friction (5.11-), excellent protection. Can also aide this section if desperate. Continue up steep blank slab, using "pinky" mantles and downward-sloping friction pockets with a final dynamic highstep into a shallow pocket (5.11-). Contue up easier climbing to first anchor. 8 bolts.

 Pitch 2: move left and up shallow dishes and small finger ramp, followed by slab to well-defined ledge (5.9+). Continue up to the large ramp using the finger crack with laybacks and friction up to base of the chimney sandwiched between the sandstone blocks (5.9), admiring the exposed mudstone clasts at the bottom of the large block on the right that were ripped up in a marine turbidity current, 45 million years ago. Jam your body into the chimney and squirm your way up and onto the face, moving in and out onto the block and to the second set of anchors (5.8?). A backpack makes this section much more difficult and smaller people will have an easier time. 7 bolts.

 Pitch 3: Veer slight left and into the corner of the ramp, then straight up through friction moves onto a large ledge (5.7). Move slightly right and up into the crack system. Use fist jams and work way to top of crack onto face and summit anchor (5.9) 6 bolts.

 Total 55 meters.

From the parking/redneck party area, walk east/southeast ~75 ft and down the slope to the exposed sandstone slab. Start the climb with a ~45 m rappel to the bottom, either using two 60 m ropes or by rappelling to the intermediate belay station using a single rope, making sure to hang climbers left, and rappelling again to the bottom of the climb.

 Climb starts with serious slab moving up through the bolts making sure to take advantage of the small concretions and narrow pockets created by erosion of mudstone rip-up clasts at the cruxes. Follow bolts up the slab moving left and up the small crack and out to the belay station. 8 bolts.

 From the belay station, place a draw in the anchor and move right and up the slab section approaching the steep wall and crux. Clip the bolts at the wall and move up and through the crux making sure to avoid any loose crimps. Do some fancy footwork and move right and up the ramp and continue to the final crux immediately below the top anchors. Veer right and take advantage of any small concretions or tiny pockets while finishing on the slab. 6 bolts.

Large ridge of sandstone visible to the west of the Umpqua Valley. Same series of sandstone cliffs that compose the Callahans climbing area but only ~10 miles north. Potential for more routes with some cleaning and exploring. Also has a large boulder field with potential at the base of the cliff. Awesome views overlooking large vineyards and the Umpqua River, plus the shortest approach in the region! 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bear Ridge