Autumn Sauna

Left of Fauna

Beat Street Trauma

Patient Pace

Amazing Grace

P1- Climb up a dirty crack on a slab beneath a small roof. From crack force yourself out left to a stance and a bolt. Clip the bolt and either go left or force yourself to commit to slabbing straight above the bolt (fun). Clip a bolt at a roof and climb over using big holds passing a belay rap anchor. Clip a few more bolts ramble up the slab passing a large ledge and one more bolt to semi hanging 2 ring belay/rap station. 5.7R 180'

P2- Clip bolt just above the belay below the west facing dihedral. The next bolt is about 30 feet up and to the left of the dihedral. We climbed in the dihedral for a bit then stepped out and made some committing moves to gain the bolt (see page

Craig "the Deadhead" Martin on the 2nd pitch

). Once the bolt is gained big holds on varnished rock bring you to a sub station. Pass the sub belay and climb up nice features passing 3 bolts, one of which is missing a hanger (it still has the nut so you can slide a wire nut over it)to a semi hanging belay at 2 rings. 5.7+ R 165'

P3- From belay climb up water streak to a mini roof placing dubious cams in rotten rock. Tiptoe along the rotten foot rail until you can sling a tree growing out of a crack. A few bolts bring you to a stance and sub belay. Pass this and make a step down to the left and friction up nice red varnish. From the top of the varnish plug a good nut and step up over the mini bulge, from the top of this a couple of bolts bring you up near the arete and a 2 bolt belay. 5.8 R 195'

P4- Slab you way up the coarse granite on the arete. A bolt is about 25 feet up. Pass this to an obvious belay at 2 bolts. 5.6R 60ft.

P1- From the vegetated cleft find a flat big rock behind some bushes. There is a bolt above this to the west. Slab you way up 5.5 slab to a sub belay, ramble past this up highly fun and featured slab passing 3 more bolts to a 2 ring anchor 5.5 180'

P2- Climb up and right using chickenheads for progress (crux) aim for the bolt above the overlap. Cruise up easy but dirty terrain to a 2 bolt anchor 5.6 55'

P2 variant- Climb out right from belay to reach a bolt, pad your way up to one more bolt aiming for the roof. Plug in some smaller cams and crank over the roof using big chickenheads, once above clip one more bolt and ramble to the anchor. 5.7 55'

Description

Protection

Routes in Lots of Balls Slab