Angel's Delight (in my opinion) is the best 5.7 (some say it's a bit harder) at the Overlook. This one has lots of variation, a bit of exposure and some excellent climbing! Most of the route is relatively mellow, bits of jamming broken up by ledges and such. Once you move into the final corner, you'll want to concentrate. The last crack coming out right under the overhang above is some really cool climbing! 

  Beta hint: that last crack is much easier if you move all the way up into the corner and stem, traversing with the crack just above waist level. If you're crossing over with your hands above you in the crack, this is going to feel pretty hard!

Angel's Delight

Sin Ropa

Fresh Air

The Girdle

Normally Urgent

Trinity Arete

Sparky and the Firedog

Normally 3 Rurps

Gingerbread

The Shining, AKA Not Fade Away

Griffo

Piddley Shit

Wager Crack

Wanderlust

Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner

Mint Julep

Blunderbuss

Jelly Roll

Applesticks

Swedish Britfast Crack

Alley Oop

Magumba's Corner

Morning After

CrackUp

Orange Out Direct

The Long Walk

Mint Jam

Direct Left

Duck Soup

Red Wagon

Magical Mystery Tour

Left Trinity Crack

Nickle Slot

Amateur  Hour

Agent Orange

Amputation

The Horn

Sneak Preview

Grunt'N'Dangle

Sintisa

Trinity Roofs

Cloudwalk

Morning's Mourning

Obscurity

Orange Julius

Stalemate

Stonegate

Middle Trinity Crack

Hidden Hollow

Constant Gardener

Mellow Yellow

Circus du Soleil

Circus Circus

I've always been Crazy

Obediah

PegLeg I, II

Devil's Deed

Microtome

Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up

Isaiah

Bush Rush

Answered Prayers

Dugald's Right

Gambit

Burger King

Redrum AKA Jungleland

Burnt Buns

Satisfaction Guaranteed

Head Cheese

Dyzygy

George's Niche

Pensativa

Syzygy

Hand Jive

Looked Over

Dugald's Route

Sexual Deviations

Too Proud to Geek

Hard Rain

Right Trinity Crack

Magumba's Corner is a a pretty cool line. Where Angel's Delight heads off to the right, you go straight up through the "butt cheek" crack and then monkey the overhangs above to the rim. Excellent!!!

Another somewhat obscure but deserving route at the Overlook.  It's unique in that after you pull the lower roof (the crux stuff) you're then face climbing up and across discontinuous cracks. 

  I don't recall this being all that dangerous but given the name, I have to assume there's some run out up on that face.  My recollection is that you find gear here and there but have to pull some face moves without pro now and again. 

  Toula's original orange guide has this section of the cliff out of order.  Not sure if it was corrected in his later editions. 

  Sin Ropa  and Head Cheese are west (climber's left) of Everyday 5.3.  And Sin Ropa was a lead, not a TR as Toula calls out. 

"Fresh Air is an excellent climb, not for the 5.8 leader though.  

  It's a bit awkward to get onto the arete but once there thin face, some tricky nutting, a bit of run out balance climbing.  

  Larry and I always felt this was one of the hidden gems at the Overlook. It's unique.  

  BTW - You can continue up the starting corners for a line independent of Fresh Air or Obscurity. It's a decent 5.8, don't recall if we gave it a name. It has two exits at the top." 

  Paul Davidson

My favorite climb at the Overlook. 

  You'll end up climbing many of the cruxes of the various routes.     I really have no idea how many pitches we did.  But it was a full day of climbing.  Probably sometime in late May (approximately 1980.) 

  First one day push was Paul Davidson and John Fleming.  I think Larry and Tim later also did the entire link up for the 2nd.  Prior to that I'd worked on the route with Jim Haisley, Tim & Larry Coats.  We'd go out and do a few pitches here and there until we'd done most of it.  The final one day did include some new ground across Isaiah and the Trinities. 

  This is not really for the faint of heart.  Every pitch has something to offer and you want to be climbing with a partner you trust.  Not much difference between leading and seconding.  In fact, leading is probably easier since you control the placements.    

  A lot of really fun climbing with some exciting moments here and there.  Highly recommended for the Overlook aficionado. 

  Double ropes would be the ticket. 

  If you like this route, then go do "Electric Aunt Jememiah in Heat" at Chimney rock (that might even be a better warm up for this one.)  And finish up with the awesome and thrilling girdle at Granite Mountain ! 

Begin up slightly obtuse climbing to a wide crack.  Pass the wide crack to a ledge, and continue up towards the obvious splitter on the face above and slightly left.  Climb the splitter and finish with a little more easier climbing to the rim.  Crux is possibly passing the wide crack, or maybe climbing the splitter above. 

  Lots of rests like most Overlook climbs, not sustained.  If only the splitter section was longer. 

  If the wasps are active in the crack right off the ledge, you can move left, like I did, and climb flakes/blocks around them (well kind of climb around them). 

  Pretty fun for the Overlook, but just okay for all climbing areas.

TR the obvious arete right of the Trinities.   Fun face climbing.  This is a locals climb (the thing you do once you've done the other stuff in the area and have some spare time.) 

  Gain the arete either from right Trinity or from Isiah.

Initially easy scrambling leads to a sort of headwall. Get in some gear and pull up and over the bulge to gain the nice corner system above. What was it one of my old partners used to say...continuously interesting.

Start as for Dugald's Right, but move right well below the roof to easier terrain.

This route is naturally broken up into 3 sections with two great rest ledges.   

  The first section climbs the crack to a roof about 15 feet off the deck.   Pull the roof to the left and climb blocks to the first rest ledge.   

  The second section is a twin-crack system that will work your stemming skills.  Watch out for the cactus on the left as you pull up to the second ledge after the twin cracks.   

  Step left to climb the third section to a large juniper overhanging the edge.  This section pulls some blocky and a bit over-hanging moves to the top.   

the Shining is a hard gem set against the backdrop of moderates at the Overlook. With the quality movement and good gear this line would be a classic if it were nestled in somewhere on the Davidson wall at the Forks, but it shines all the brighter where it stands at the Overlook. The route essentially starts off a ledge 30 feet up. It is the right most striking dihedral (Jungleland being the left). Begin with big long moves with edges and thin jams which lead you to a great rest. From here the climbing gets tougher as you move higher, though there are still decent rests before the crux. At the crux you will have to incorporate powerful stemming, tight balance, and if on lead, a calm head. The gear is good and the air is clean. It is more a matter of rubber and leg tension vs. strength.

A short route with a short approach. A bit harder than the 5.6 grade given by nation-wide standards, but maybe accurate locally. The climb goes from a scrambling to stemming with good locks and jams, then back to jugs at the top. 

Alternate crack strategies may be needed for this part of the climb.

A stiff, short little climb that turns out to be a decent problem. 

  You wouldn't go here to do this climb but if you're looking for new things to do at the local area then this one fits the bill. 

  Named because first lead won 1 1/2 6 packs of beer of choice when I pulled the lead off.  I believe I had to give up 1/2 a pack because I fell or hung and lowered.  Yep, that was it, I hung, scoped out some holds and lowered back down. 

  I believe Jim had tried it and I was giving him grief for not firing up such a short POS so he bet me I couldn't do it. 

  If I remember correctly, this is a good one to sandbag your buddy on. 

  My notes say 5.11-, but then say hard lead, bad style. 

  Not the best memory here, but I think there might be a bit of an issue with getting good gear to keep you from hitting a ledge if you fall off the crux.  I believe the crack is good enough but it dies out and then you have to do some face moves with a bit of a fall potential.  Since I never thought falling at the Overlook was a good idea, too many broken up features, I've given this a PG13 so you have some forewarning.  I just don't remember.  Maybe it sows up with a TCU and all is well ?  What, 25 years ago ! No wonder I can't remember.

A really fun climb with some moments that will wake you up here and there. 

  There a number of ways to do this climb.   You can add some real testy face climbing depending on how direct you make the start. You can climb the face/arete just left of Cloudwalk for a testy lead.  Otherwise you can come into it via the beta photo.

Start on the blocky ledge left of Obediah, where Duck Soup, George's Niche, and the Horn also start. Scramble up and right to the obvious seam in a left facing corner. Slot a nut and make a few hard technical moves before the seam widens and eases. Great moves, but more of a boulder problem really..

Mint Julep is a nice line that probably doesn't get as much attention as it deserves. The start is a little wandering and not all that distinct in terms of crack, which may be the reason. But the upper part is challenging and enjoyable. 

  Initial wandering on the face and discontinuous cracks to the right of Morning's Morning gets you to the clean corner above. Finger locks and technical face climbing will get you to the top.

Black and Orange Streak/Offwidth in between Burger King and Dugald's Route. Some offwidth moves but mostly face climbing.

From the start of Isaiah/Mint Jam look up and right and locate an offwidth at the left side of a tower. Either climb the start of Mint Jam and traverse in, or climb the more difficult fingercrack directly below the offwidth. Either way, get into that offwidth and worm your way up! Finish on the tricky exit moves of Mint Jam

This is a decent route.  Easy climbing to clear the roof, the crux is establishing in to the crack.

Nice and fun obscure climb.     Not your typical Overlook climb. 

  I don't recall this being all that hard but it's probably for the experienced 5.10 leader because I seem to recall some run out on the arete and possibly some tricky pro (opposition, etc...) 

  My recollection (hey, it was a long time ago...) is that the face is easier than it looks and the roof up high is a bit exciting. 

  It's similar in nature to Sin Ropa but easier (I think.) 

  Named in honor of Brit, a Swedish gynecologist traveling through the states.  Mark brought her and her partner home to the now burned down climber's house south of the old Alpineer. 

  I think we might have put up Sexual Deviations on the same day in honor of our young and frustrated losses. 

  I doubt this has had very many ascents so it would be a good one for a repeat write up. 

Alley Oop is one of the better moderate routes at the Overlook. It's just challenging enough to give a beginning leader some interesting moments, but well protected and offers some cool moves.  Center right of the wall, look for a wavy crack running up a flat wall that forms the right side of a big corner. Climb up the wavy crack, skirt around a protruding boulder, then continue up. The crux comes where the corner squeezes down to a tight 1/4" crack leading to a horizontal ledge. Get a good nut in a layback your way onto the ledge (a belly flop might be in order if it saves you a fall). Then go to the right end of the ledge and up to the top.

This is a very nice climb if you create a variation different than that posted by MK in his handout.   

  Climb Morning's Mourning about 12 m where you can establish yourself on the left side of the arete.  Climb the arete and face just left of the arete to the obvious crossover at the base of the "crown"; onto the face right of the arete.  Climb the finger crack (rattley fingers and off-hands) to the top out. 

This is a nice route.  Marty calls it a "chunky hand crack".  Crux is exiting an off balance corner/crack near the top of the climb.

Orange Out Direct is one thee moderate classics to do at the Overlook. From the base, climb up jugs to gain a nice corner with moderate moves, always headed toward the big overhang above. At the top of the moderate corner, a burly overhanging jamcrack (crux) puts you in a cool (and unbelievably moderate as it turns out) overhanging chimney that takes you to the top. 

The crack system to the left of Amateur Hour, starting on the slab. Climb slab for first 15-17ft to the crack system. There may be some micro nut placements in the mid-slab section, but none that are very good. Once in the crack system, continue up the crack for some excellent jams, with the protection getting better every move.

Same start as Isaiah.  Once you reach the ledge take the double cracks in the left facing dihedral up to the top.  The exit is a little tricky.  This climb is to the right of Isaiah.

Double hand cracks start from top of boulder just right of dead tree ledge.

This is the thin hands crack just to the left of the Trinity Cracks.  Climb leftwards up a broken section of rock to a step over move.  Step over into the crack and climb hands and thin hands to the top.  Exit is slightly left at the top of the cack.

When we did this climb, we didn't think much of the fact that you're climbing over a huge flake.  Young and dumb and fresh off a climbing trip... 

  The flake is probably good given how much rock is pressing it into place.  But you'll have to make up your mind as to the safety of the route.  I won't do it again and probably wouldn't let my kids do it either. It has had a few ascents that I know of and probably a lot more that I don't. 

  The climbing moves are good and once you're 15 feet up and established into the main corner, the rock is solid. 

  I believe this climb was the first 5.11 led in the Flagstaff area.  Certainly the first 5.11 at the Overlook.  The Gleason's had TR'd some 11+/12- stuff at West Elden (Right Elephant Crack, aka Red Asphalt.)  Ed Webster had led Twilight Zone and rated it 5.11 but consensus has put that at 5.10.   

  Toula's original guide called out danger due to wasps.   

  Named for the end of a great summer climbing trip and in honor of John's moving off to Albuquerque for graduate school.

This route is the left of the three beautiful 5.10 cracks at the end of the trail. Down past Isaiah. Climb up easy slab to the base of the finger crack i.e. the business. Pull through the crux on good pro to easy climbing under the roof. Traverse the roof right to the hand crack and pull the 5.9? roof and jam the crack to the top.   This was my first 5.10 red point, and is a good first 5.10 thats safe!

I think this was a TC first but it might have been Larry or even Jim... 

  This is a testy route if I remember it correctly.   Involves jamming, stemming and a bit of squeeze/OW. 

  I recall it was in the 5.10 range.

The crux is probably exiting a short crack that is located about 10 meters from the "block" - a precarious looking boulder about 12 meters off the ground - and, only one move.  Beautiful line, wonderful moves, nice position, and excellent overhanging finish.

Start up Orange Out but stay in the left hand side of the diehdral. Usually there are some bushes here since most everyone stays right. You can contrive harder moves if you just strictly climb the left dihedral. 

  At the top of this left hand book is a small roof with a thin crack splitting out the left side and onto the blank face above. 

  It's the continuation of the dihedral and is very obvious. 

  Climb onto the thin face and then exit up the thin corner that is on the left hand side of the Orange Out Direct block. 

The first crack around the corner, just left of Red Wagon. Stem and jam up double cracks. The crux is a stout section of thin hands/ringlocks halfway up. After this the crack widens and eases up, to finish at the same ledge as Red Wagon

Claw your way up the two lower offwidth sections to gain easier rock to the summit.  Exit to the right of the horn shaped block at the top of the cliff.  Belay off of a set back juniper.

A classic Grossman Test Fest. 

  Enough said ? 

  I know of no second ascents yet.   At least on lead. 

  Thin nutting, steep face climbing, outrageous position.  Earn your hardman badge with this one. 

  We were spending a day at the Overlook and were running laps on the Orange Out wall climbs so (gasp) had strung a rap line off the huge old Juniper that used to live at the top of the wall. 

  In an usual departure from ground up ethics, Steve looked at this line on rappel and started saying it would go.  This was the first time but not the last, when I said no way.  Too thin, no pro.  Steve was adamant it was all there and showed us that it was.  A jaw dropping lead. 

  Just another example of why Steve was for my money, the most gifted climber to come out of the late '70s, early '80s wave of Az climbers.  And considering that group (Mish, Waugh, Coats(2x), Stieger, Ringle, Haisley, LB, Noebles, North, and others..) that's quite a statement. 

  No one else had (has) the same fluid grace and nerves of steel that so characterized Steve.     The often unknown thing about Steve is that he was a master, the best, at creating protection from nebulous placements.  And he would spend the hang time it would take to get and trust the odd gear.

Follow third class ramps to the base of the Trinity cracks. On the far left theres a right facing open book with an offwidth crack. Clmb the crack for thirty feet until you get below the trinity roofs. Traverse to one of the many exits. IF going for the furthest right and easist one (5.7) watch the rope drag.

A less traveled attention getting route.  "Loose" rock and scary flake add/subtract to the appeal.  Great route imo.  At the first ledge, I would start with the finger crack on Gambit and then transition left to get on Sintisa.  Make a few dicey slab moves on micro gear.  Then climb a steep section pulling hard on a ringlock at the crux.  I did not touch the flake and I recommend avoiding it.  Watch out for the cactus near the top.

I recall three separate exits out the roofs.  The right hand one is how most parties exit the Trinities. 

  Then there's the obvious larger roof that is gained by climbing the obvious corner left of the cracks.  I recall a bit of an exposed sequence. 

  Then there's the less obvious line up between the above two lines.  I recall this being my favorite exit.

Probably not the best choice for a first 5.9 lead.  Very fun face climbing up a thin thin crack.  No pro for the first 10 ft, with a bad landing onto a rough ledge.  Eventually the crack opens up to a little and you can relax and enjoy the moves.  To protect it better you could climb up Crackup for 10 ft, set some pro and climb back down so you can do the first couple moves on TR.

Start up through blocky holds to a ledge below a right facing corner > jams, finger locks, and a few face holds take you to the top. The crux for me was a ringlock section half way up the crack (protected by a .5 camalot). Belay from a large tree at the cliff top.

Crux is pulling a bulge down low. 

  Some nice climbing in the middle, the upper part is somewhat bushy and blocky. 

  You can wander around up there and keep the route cleaner but it requires some thought. 

  This is a climb for locals looking for something else to do.

At the top of Mint Julep you do some wild moves out right to finish up the next corner/exit.   

  Committing and requiring some thin nutting, it's a classic locals test piece.

Climbs the beautiful short corner to the right of Gambit. Fun stemming up the corner leads to the off-balance fat fingers crux pulling the overhang above. (Note: we originally rated the crux .11-, but Toula downrated it in his guidebook. Having repeated it several times over the years, I'm not totally sure the downrating is accurate).

Route starts on big ledge approximately 25 ft off ground and just right (east) of the Burger King pillar with blocks on top. Gain the ledge by climbing 20 ft up Mellow Yellow to big ledge. Walk left (west) and mantle up onto second big ledge next to pillar. Short but sweet variation to Hand Jive. Climb the same start as Hand Jive up to roof, then move left beneath a very nice finger crack. Climb fingers and face holds(crux) straight up and join Hand Jive at the two protruding boulders. Continue on Hand Jive route to the top.

Slightly overhanging hand crack, get beautiful jams all the way up and exit out of roof which is 5.9

Left of Sin Tisa and Gambit.   Great slab climbing leads to an upper corner/alcove with some strenuous moves (slightly overhung if I recall.)  Might be R due to the fall potential onto a slab but I recall the gear being pretty decent.

Good route for training beginning trad climbers or topropers.  Short route that's easy to protect with good rests. Face climbing to a ledge on the right. Scramble past the 1st bush to 10ft of stemming, passing the 2nd bush along the way. Make it over a crux bulge, climb 10ft more and top out. Some vegetation but, overall, a fun climb.

Start 20 ft right of Burger King(40 ft right of Obediah)in a shallow, open book corner with a small tree stub.  Climb easy double cracks up to big ledge with small blocks stairstepped atop each other.  Climb blocks into a right facing dihedral and climb up to roof with yellow lichen.  Pass the roof(crux)and continue up wide crack/corner covered with yellow lichen to the top.

A short but worthy climb that provides a direct line to the SBC (Swedish Britfast Crack) exit established by Paul Davidson in 1979.  It starts on a ledge situated 35-40 ft off the ground and is reached by climbing Circus Circus to the second big ledge.

Black book to ledge, crack, ledge, crack then pull to the top. Beware of the large loose boulder just before topping out (Loose - Do NOT use it).

This is a classic route to sandbag your buddies on. To the left of Orange Out locate a steep splitter looking line that goes out a jutting prow. The standard start is Morning’s Mourning and move left to the I’ve always been Crazy system. The important thing is that you end up beneath the only steep section around, looking at a thin seem, and some possible jugs up above you.

 Before you start the business I would recommend placing several pieces. #.3ish sized pieces are good, as well a .75 camalot up and right towards the arete (the last good piece before commiting to the movement). A couple moves into the steeps, you will come across sloping, pumpy jugs and a conspicuous nut placement. A # 7 BD stopper, or # 8, or # 6, or # 5 will fit just fine. Punch up some more long lockoff moves to the lip, where a yellow metolious tcu or orange if that is all you have will protect the final moves. I find turning the lip to be the crux.

 Bring several runners to make sure your rope runs smoothly through the beginning section. The whole top half of this line is really good climbing. Kinda feels like a Gunks route!

View of Orange Out wall with known routes

Obediah is located down on the right end of the wall where you'll find a striking finger crack in black rock (usually chalked). 

  Climb the finger crack (crux) then up easier ground to a ledge on the right. A handcrack leads up and left to a sort of in-your-face wide crack. Continue to the top, following cracks right up the exposed arete. Excellent route!

To the right of Stalemate is a roof, corner system.  Climb the flat face right of the Stalemate corner up to the roofs.  Exit left or right for I and II.  Or a bit lower down, head out right on a diagonaling system that leads to a steeper exit on a clean face (that's 5.9-5.10 ground and is actually Wanderlust, which can be climbed with a direct start).  The two Pegleg exits are in the 5.8 or so range. 

  As I recall, some pretty fun climbing on some clean rock.   

  This is just left of Crack N Up, around the arete.

Devil's Deed is one of the best 5.9's at The Overlook. Challenging and classic! Route starts when you peel off from Angel's Delight about 15 feet up at a #2 Camalot/hand crack. Traverse right on good holds along small ledges, then up and head for the left thin crack above. Protection is tricky, but possible here in a small slot below the corner. An awkward move gets you face-to-face with the crack. You can get a cam in here if you have a tiny one (00 TCU size). You have to make a couple dicey moves to get up high enough to get your tips into the crack. Above this, out right, you move into a wide hands crack (#3 Camalot) to a small stance. A finger crack heads out right and up (second crux here) and then to the rim. Excellent route!!!

Getting in gear and pulling the bulge are the cruxes on this climb.  I actually really liked this one.  It's a bit stiff, old school but it is not as hard as it looks.  It's sort of like Answered Prayers in that gear and holds show up right when you need them. 

  This was a good first ascent by Larry.   It looks too thin for gear at first blush.

Actually a pretty fun moderate route. Start under a tree around the corner to the right of the start of Isaiah and Jelly Roll. Climb up some blocky rock to a tiny roof (the start of Everyday Five Three.) Then traverse a couple feet right and go up a short corner (now you're on Head Cheese).  Above this, climb a beautiful fingercrack up an off-vertical wall. Pull over some cool blocks and you're on top! 

  Here's a pic of the fingercrack portion... 

mountainproject.com/v/arizo…

Isaiah is maybe THE classic at the Overlook and usually acknowledged by most climbers as a wonderful route. The route is located on the left end of the wall, just right of the obvious Trinity Cracks. Three possible starts put you on top of a pedestal and the main crack. The standard direct start is .10a. Tricky, awkward moves on thin hands, up through a pod and then up to the top via overhanging jams and face holds. Belay from large, squat tree on top.

A short route with a short crux, but good moves on good stone. If it were 100' tall, it could have been classic... but it isn't.   This climb goes up a boulder to a horizontal, then up an obtuse corner with a finger-to hand crack for a few 5.9 moves before topping out on lower angle broken rock. The crux is getting fully established in the crack after the horizontal and protects overhead.

Answered Prayers is a really cool route, and a good one to get used to placing small gear at a moderate grade. After scrambling up to the "head wall", get in some gear and then pull through the bulging wall above. A lack of footholds makes this an interesting proposition. Once above the bulge, you're in a nice dihedral. Stem and jam your way to the top. The upper dihedral is a little sparse on gear, so make sure you get a couple good pieces in the clean crack before you launch into the last half of the dihedral. Also, work all the options, and look out to the left arete for good holds.

Marty gives this route three stars.  It is quite good.  The roof is the crux.  Although one can protect under the roof, the actual roof move has little direct protection (i.e. no placement above the roof within reach while standing below the roof).  Positive hand holds can be found to do the move, however.

Great climbing; it protects really well.  Not sure where the crux might be. Although one has to scramble a bit to get to the first crack, there is nothing bad to say about this climb.

Between Blunderbuss and Obediah is a somewhat broken section of cliff.  And just right of the Swedish Britfast Crack (arete) is a large corner, broken section which is the start of the Burger King section. 

  There are a number of ways to climb up through this section with probably 4-5 exits at the top that can go from 5.7 to 5.10 ? 

  Even though the cliff is broken and the lower part fairly simple, there is some decent climbing to be had in this area. 

  Have it your way.

Redrum is the right facing dihedral off a ledge 30 feet up or so (The Shining is the left facing dihedral to the right). Redrum starts off with wonderful movement on edges and thin jams which lead you to a rest at the midway point. It all seems pretty cruiser for the grade until you hit the crux up high. The crux is... more thoughtful/technical than powerful, though it is powerful as well... Smart feet will help you span the gaps and use the out of place edges/slopers. Look left on the arete for help.

Climb up a corner with a nice fingercrack, using the offwidth just right for stemming when you need it.

Route starts on big ledge approximately 25 ft off ground and just right (east) of the Burger King pillar with blocks on top. Gain the ledge by climbing 20 ft up Mellow Yellow to big ledge. Walk left (west) and mantle up onto second big ledge next to pillar. An obvious round cluster of hedgehog cactus about 7 ft off the ledge marks the start of the climb. Scramble up to ledge with cactus and protect under roof. Pull through 3 large jugs (their solid) and gain another ledge on the left. Climb the very nice finger crack and incuts(crux) straight up to a small ledge, then follow the crack that angles right to the top.

Just left of Everyday 5.3 is a fairly obvious steep thin pod/corner.  

  You stem, lie back, jam up this corner onto some broken ground.  Stay left of ED 5.3 and turn the small blocky roof to gain the really fun upper hand crack. 

  The small roof is fairly obvious from the ground and looks a bit grungy.  As I recall, it's actually good climbing. 

  Crux is the bottom layback stuff to establish into and then exit the Head Cheese pod. 

  Not done very often (I think Larry C. did a second ascent) it's deserving of your time. 

  Smaller fingers will like it better than fat ones.   Some power lie backing required as I recall.

Dyzygy is a variation of Syzygy, though I wanted to list it separately because it creates a very enjoyable 5.10-, that has good gear at the gritstonesque crux up high and climbs through a swath of gorgeous stone.

 Start as for Syzygy on a ledge 40' up. It's actually nicer just to rap to the ledge and climb out, than climbing the mega choss below the ledge. After turning the roof and pulling the facey crux of Syzygy, look up and right at a beautiful right angling crack/ seam. You could easily save a single set JUST for this section. A few off balance, smeary lay backs take you through the crux. Finish straight up.

Start with a short overhanging offwidth crux to a ledge, get gear in and head up the easier offwidth above to a blocky finish.  Belay from a pine tree set back from the edge.

Ramp, corner, crack system just left of Hidden Hollow. It's the obvious wider black corner just right of MicroTome and Obscurity.What appears as a bushy choss fest was actually some pretty decent climbing with a bit of 5.8 here and there. I think the "crux" would be towards the top.It's a right leaning system.Regarding Access, as far as I ever known, the climbing ban was from Red Wagon and West.  This climb is far to the east of that.

30 feet left of Morning's Morning you'll see a big black roof.  Sysygy climbs easy rock to the base of the roof, then turns the roof on the left with good holds.  The face climbing crux comes just after the roof (protect with nut), then follow the sweet crack to the top. 

Route starts on big ledge approximately 25 ft off ground and just right (east) of the Burger King pillar with blocks on top. Gain the ledge by climbing 20 ft up Mellow Yellow to big ledge. Walk left (west) and mantle up onto second big ledge next to pillar. Begin in a shallow, left facing dihedral with nice hand crack on the right side of ledge. Climb up to roof, then traverse right into steep hand crack. Pass a small bulge section(crux) and gain two boulders protruding from a ledge (their solid enough). Climb into big alcove and exit to the right via easy chimney moves.

A sweet pitch tantalizing close to a classic moderate, is very different and harder. If only there was more of this type of pitch at the Overlook. Start up nice tight fingers, then as the crack slabs out, step right past the bowling ball grip to a stance on the flat face. Crank up nice face holds to a sport crux, keeping out of the crack on the right.  Easier, awkward climbing leads straight up. Fist bump your go-pro.

The difficulty of this climb will vary greatly upon the exact line taken and what is "on" or "off."  If you climb just the crack though the roof (crux) it is solid 5.10. Allowing face holds and deviation from the most direct line, it may be 5.10a.   Climb up the jumble of boulders and set pro before getting in the start of the crux, a flaring handjam. Set more pro (in the jam) and them beat the roof one of a few ways. If you use ONLY the crack it may be low 5.11, with a few sensible footholds, it's 5.10. Allowing for deviations from the crack, it might go in as easy as 5.10a. Continue up easier rock on good pro to the top of the cliff.

This is the roof crack finish to Obediah.  It adds a wild and strenuous finish to an already classic line.  Easier for bigger hands.

This is one of the more unobvious lines at the Overlook, but offers classic, if heady Overlook face climbing. It starts with Amateur Hour and Alley Oop in a nook.  About  25 feet up Alley Oop, above the giant block, step left into a seam and become Too Proud to Geek. Face and arête moves with specific small nut placements take you to a stance below the crux. Stuff in a piece or 2 and overcome the odd sequence of face climbing. A stance of sorts post-crux allows you to place gear and eye the finish. From there sporty moves traverse left across a perched block and take you to the top. Fits in other Overlook routes of the grade, like Agent Orange and I've Always Been Crazy, fun and sporty but safe enough to fall off of.

I believe this is 5.9, might be 9+ ? 

  A good climb that's another one in the Gambit area.  More of an alternate exit to Nickle Slot. 

  Peggy had to follow this in the pouring rain which considerably added to the grip factor.

Just like it sounds, the rightmost of the Trinity's. I find this one slightly easier than the middle, but still tricky.

The Overlook is a firmly established traditional crag perched high above Pumphouse Wash and the head of Oak Creek Canyon, just south of Flagstaff. Long broken basalt columns line the rim of this area, and the result is a plethora of moderate trad climbs. Folks began exploring these cliffs in the late 1960’s but it wasn't until the middle 70’s that it started to resemble the crag we know today. Moving into the early 80’s the list of first ascentionists reads like a roster of this generation’s best talent. Guys like Scott Baxter, Paul Davidson, Tim and Larry Coats, Lee Dexter, Karl Karlstrom, Steve Grossman, Jim Haisley, Ross Hardwick, Dugald Bremner, John Gault, Mark Force, and John Flemming all opened up classic routes at this crag. These routes were cleaned by the hands of a thousand ascents. Pulling on hollow blocks is the norm, though always check them first as blocks can shift over time. The ledgy nature of the climbing here makes it a great place to learn how to lead trad but not a good place to fall.

There are no fixed anchors anywhere on the main wall of the crag. The normal procedure is to rig a separate rap line from a gear anchor, rap in, then climb back out. However, there is a trail on top of the far east side of the wall which leads down to the base. rappelling is optional. If trees are used for a rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.

 A standard rack of doubles from #.3 through #3.5 and a single set of wires will get you up almost everything here, though smaller and larger pieces are demanded on certain routes, and extra hand sized pieces can be nice.

 The Overlook is basically a kinder, more gentle version of Paradise Forks and has a reputation for drying up quicker than the Forks during the monsoons. The wall faces south east and gets plenty of morning sun, then rolls into the shade around 2:00 in the afternoon.

 ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety.

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Routes in The Overlook