Tricks follows a specific and unique combination of holds that zig zag across some of the best quality stone at Cooks. In the upper gully, start up the right leaning crack just left of the first bolt. At the top of the ramp, clip the second bolt and fire the first crux just right of the bolt line. Get some gear in the big horizontal seam and angle left back across the bolt line into a series of crimps for the red point crux.Plug a cam out right int he long horizontal crack and choose between two finishes. Either traverse right along the crack and go big over the roof to the anchors or immediately pull straight up a small face crux and traverse the roof to the shuts.

Tricks R 4 Kids

Hot Pockets

Pig in a Blanket

Wheaties

Tight Clam Bambi

Breakfast Of Champions

Cat in the Hat

Gaspacho

Rise And Shine

Green Eggs and Ham

Captain Crush

A rarely done but very nice mixed line protected primarily by larger cams. The upper half of the climb is beautiful bullet hard rock.

Clip the first two bolts of a Tight Clam Bambi and break right into a long fist sized crack. Top out and belay from trees or plug a good directional cam (to protect your second to the top) and traverse left a few feet to the anchors of Tight Clam. Easy traverse.

An apply named route, since the two pockets on the otherwise blank face will leave your tips a bit toasty. Ascend the far left side of the slab, 30' left of the Green Eggs arete, to an extremely high but clipable first bolt. Find the pockets through the polished gray face and pull the roof above to anchors halfway up the headwall.

Start in gully on middle bolt line. Clip first old bolt ("Tight clam...") and traverse left past horizontal friend placement and a good hybrid alien (red/yellow). Continue up past a bolt to the roof with small gear below and a bolt above. Pull crux and follow weakness up and right to gear up high (hand sized cam's). Crank small ovelap to top. Place directional and move right to old shuts.

Start at the bottom of the distinct vertical crack on the 'east" facing side of the Breakfast Wall high up on the ledge. Follow the black crack past the second bolt and lean back for some nice steep climbing with an interesting bulge at the top.

An extended boulder problem to curb your appetite. Climb the left side of the slab that faces the trail (facing south) and follow a bolt line going straight up through the steepest part of the wall following a shallow dihedral feature.

Use the same start up the slab as Green Eggs and Ham. Clip the first bolt and climb through a series of bulges on the left side of the arete.

Easy warm up, best done on a winter morning as it loses sun early.

Climbs the obvious right facing corner just to the left of "Breakfast Of Champions". After pulling over the top lip of the dihedral, follow the vertical seam up the sloping headwall to anchors. Alternatively, step out to arete, above the roof go right and use anchors for the sport routs. Crack in the corner offers great pro.

This is one of the most popular lines in the West Walls, with great position as well as the very first line you see upon approach to the area.

Captain Crush is a straight shot, splinter line up some of the best stone at Cooks through technical face and multiple roofs. It utilizes the excellent center roof of Wheaties while adding a more technical and cleaner start with the addition of an extra roof at the top for good measure.

Captain Crush simply forms an independent straight line up the inside right of the Green Eggs arete forming a stellar single pitch of climbing. Not to be mistaken as Wheaties, which forms a half loop that uses the start and finish of Tight Clam Bambi by traversing left at the second bolt (clipped on a 48” runner) and going out a sheet face to pull the large roof system before angling back right through a large diagonal crack feature to finish at the top of Tight Clam.

Walk to the lower part of the ledge just right of the prominent arete of the Breakfast Wall and stick clip the first bolt; which is a stainless steel glue in bolt. You'll ultimately climb past four bolts starting on a technical face followed by 2 tiered roofs. There is a sizable run to the anchors (a pair of old trad shuts) but a fall here would be very clean. Take a few cams for the top if it's too spooky for your taste.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Breakfast Wall