This is the test piece for Bedal Boulder.

Cruxy right at out of the gate. For a true send you have the laying down start.

Find the nice angled rail for both hands, then right foot heel hook (downhill side) to lay out.

Gaston to a right hand sloper, smear with the left foot to help yourself up. Don't fall here.

Safety Fourth

Sloan Groan

Bedal Juice

(Scree)min' Demon

Soft V1 if you're tall, otherwise it's around a V6.

Starting just to the left of Bedal Juice, this is a short but stout little problem. Find the small two finger crimp (NOT the weird but tempting undercling!) and get that right foot on the flat section below.

Mantling with the left hand and hauling with the right, get the weight on the right foot to move the right hand to a high sloper then top out to finish. Smearing at the start with the left foot can help.

For a V2- variation, don't use the small rock for your left foot (just near the start of Sloan Groan) to stand on when starting.

NOTE: The FA was done in mountaineering boots, so future Sharmas are recommended to wear climbing shoes and may make use of a left foot, just down and to the left on the underside of the boulder.

This is a basic slab problem. For maximum difficulty do NOT use your hands.

This starts on the (creek side) obvious slab of the boulder. Find your spot with your left foot, talk to it to make sure it sticks (If you're going no hands then this is the crux!) then rock on up to a decent right foot and continue up.

Top out is encouraged and there is an easy walk off the back.

Start just to the left of Sloan Groan and look for the obvious right hand crimp to start.

Left foot goes on a nice looking bulge down left.

Top out and down climb the back.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bedal Basin (Bedal Boulder)