Double Rail Experiment is a slightly overhung problem that climbs a pair of sloping rails on perfect rock.

Stand start with hands matched and hanging on the good rail. From there, curl up to a right heel hook, gain the rail above with a right hand, shift the feet, follow with the left hand to the rail, shift into place, make a big reach to the lip, and mantel on top.

Double Rail Experiment

Twin Beaks

The Tutorial

The Tutorial uses heel hooks, compression, toe hooks, foot cuts, large moves, and desperate slaps. It is a super fun problem! Kind of like a sport route, my beta settled at 16 moves

Sit start with a sloping left hand shelf and a cruddy right hand pinch. From there, climb straight up through edges to the slab, and finish up the dihedral for an easy mantel.

The first move holds all the challenge. It is difficult putting a grade to a problem that climbs easily aside from one move.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dord Rock