Fun route, just left of Slot Nose.  It's a bit easier than the 5.10a rating, probably 5.9.  Ascend using a nice, chalk-crusted hand crack.  On toprope, it is tempting to go left, but the route stays right; just follow the bolts.  The crux comes just below the anchor, where you ascend a "slot" similar to Slot Nose's.

Special Effects

Tall Man Simplex

Cotton Mouth

Tree Killer

Herpes Simplex

Bad Influence

Shady Rock Traverse

Small Man Complex

Dog Breath

Slot Nose

This route is next to "Special Effects" on Shady Rock's west face.  Enjoy 20 feet of 5.6 hand work in trademark Castle Rock caves and flakes. The first bolt is quite high. The second is just below a cave which is  under the prominent bulge which crosses the entire rock. There are numerous opportunities to place medium cams or slot medium-to-large nuts on the way up. The crux is just below the anchor. Try to lieback a right-facing corner, and have faith as you reach up for high hands. They're not quite "thank god" pockets, but they're a helluva lot better than nothing. This route would definitely be rated 5.9 at many other areas.

This a fun little roof route on the east side of Shady rock. It is hard to reach the first bolt for shorter climbers, hence the name, due to bad feet early on and a necessary reach over the edge. Crux is turning from the overhang to the face.

Fun little climb, easy to hit if you're spending some time on shady rock. Getting to the first bolt is the crux be aware.

Climbed this with 2 others and we each did it a different way, so the rating is for my path. Crux was going straight up over the slight "overhang". Sub 5'9" might have a hard time reaching above to jam in the crack. My two partners went right just under the overhang and around a "block" to the huecos, which looked difficult and awkward in it's own way. Looked like some decent placements for trad, however, the rock was crumbly where you would want pro for the crux, so I would recommend TR first and scout it out yourself.

This is a fun short bouldery climb, with the real climbing down low, moving underneath and over the roof. The crux is at the second bolt, either right before or right after clipping, depending on your beta.

Pull the overhang and then work the arete, eventually going left toward the 3rd bolt (shared with the simplexes)

Start as far left of Small Man Complex as you can, and traverse all the way around to the right of Herpes Simplex. The hardest moves are moving around the corner between Slot Nose and Cotton Mouth. So much fun!

Climb the face past large huecos to a distinct crux just before the anchors, can be mossy or have leaf litter at the top.

This is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock.  Bruce Morris's guidebook has a good topo.  Crux is just below the first bolt; a fairly tricky mantle.  Climb left from the first bolt, up 5.4 rock, then ascend the eponymous "slot" just below the anchor.  An arm-bar may be useful here.

Variation

: From the first bolt, climb left and ascend the obvious arete to the anchor.  Probably goes about 5.9.  It's tricky to clip the bolt when leading this variation.

Description

Protection

Routes in Shady Rock