"Bareknuckle Dirt Tango 5.9++/5.11+" starts by jamming behind a partially detached flake in a crack (jams fine but gear probably wouldn't hold a good fall) to get into the left facing flare. First with deep handjams, then jamming and kneebarring up a very clean but sustained .75 flare above, the route works its way toward a good rest under an intimidating roof.

The roof is the crux, protected by a #5 below as you make tricky exit moves with a mix of burly handjams, offwidth moves and face holds to exit and continue up the sassy handcrack above. Two more large pods above, one filled with a large block, provide rest in the upper portion of the route. Tape or jammies might be a good idea for some flaring jams and calcite ridges but the original style was, you guessed it, bareknuckle (although at the expense of some skin).

Anchors are left of an alcove above the pods. Two ropes are necessary as an 80m rope does not reach the ground on rappel (45m).

Bareknuckle Dirt Tango

Horse Crack

The Goblin

Deadbolt

Bat Crack

The Bouncer

Trick or Treat

Dreams of Electric Aardvarks

Season of the Witch

Too Much Candy

The Shine

Hershey’s Dark

Jimmy Dean

Zits

Jeckl & Hyde

Stagefright

Vulcan Neck Pinch

Unknown 5.11

Overthruster

Cowboys from Mars

Unknown Finger Crack

Cow Crack

Bella's Neck Bite

This climb starts with #1s in a corner and gets progressively smaller, all the way to .4 near the anchors. Excellent! This climb is located between Q (to the left) and Zits (to the right).

Good warm up. Start in a funky slot, up a hands section with cool stairs for feet, finishing with steep thin hands.

Start with bouldery moves up a semi detached block to reach a hand crack.  A long section of baggy hands and fists brings you to a layback flake.

Finger off the deck with good features to lessen the difficulty. Crux comes pulling the bulge on fingers. After the bulge easy ground leads to the anchors.

Start in a short flared corner. Desperate moves gain a finger splitter and a miserable rest before moving into a left facing corner. The crack quickly narrows from second knuckle to tips.Thin laybacking with some cool face climbing features on the arete finish with an exciting slap to a hero jug. Finishes with easy climbing up the widening flake.

Trick or Treat climbs the stunning right facing corner on the left side of the wall.  The route begins with fingers (.4-.5) that lead to a rest.  Hang out for a bit because once you leave the stance it's on!  Steep .75's and tight 1's lead to a cool layback sequence around the ear, then hands/big hands to the chains.  Note that there are a couple blocks near the anchor that can (and should) be avoided. The anchor has been recently replaced by some super awesome person, thank you!

Start in a wedge that has a thin-hands crack in the back. Pull out of the wedge and climb an offset finger crack (crux). There are some feet on the right. Then climb several pods in the crack to the anchors, from flared hands to offwidth.

Sustained off fingers lieback with a break in the middle.  Engaging, but easier climbing to an awkward stance to clip the chains.  If you can make it to the pedestal, you can make it clean!

Too Much Candy is a sweet, splitter 5s crack with a couple steep 4s thrown in for good measure. Start on the left side of a broken pillar and clip a lone protection bolt (not used on the FFA but gear in the pillar would be useless). Then get in the crack as it steepens and eventually overhangs for the last third. If your knee doesn't fit in smaller 5s or you can't fist jam medium 4s, be ready for a fight. Also take an 80m because this is pretty much a full 40m.

A pretty great little finger crack with juuuuuuuust enough feet.  A good introduction to finger cracks.

Start by scrambling up a boulder to the start of the crack.  Work up a left facing corner to a roof.  Pull the roof and finish on 10 more feet of easy climbing.  Better then it looks but be careful of loose rock at the start and the end.

Cool changing-corners route that looks like a shorter

Hydraulic Pump

. To access the start of the crack, I traversed in from the left -- easy, but the rock is a little fragile. Steep baggy fingers past the changing corner, then easier climbing in the right-facing corner leads to the anchor.

This climb is located just to the right of Horse Crack. This is a corner with mostly #2s and #1s. Named after the “zits” in the sandstone.

This is a fun route whose difficulty is tempered by an off-width next to the corner where you can get a knee-lock virtually the whole way up the route. The route starts with a hand-crack in soft rock to a good ledge about 15 feet up. Once on the ledge, move right to the corner. The crack is primarily 0.75 and 1 Camalots for quite a ways until it becomes a little of this, a little of that.

The route name and first ascentionist info were obtained from Karl Kelley's excellent guidebook Creek Freak.

A thin start leads to a narrowing splitter.  The splitter tapers down from thumbstacks to fingers to a boulder problem through the roof.

This is likely the testpiece of the wall.  It is located on the North Facing side of the wall about 40' right of the Zits/Horse Crack zone.  The curious chockstone at the bottom was quite solid and immovable at the time of the FA.

Walk the plank with a #3 on a double length to access the crack.  From here 1-2x Green C3-0.5 and 3-4x 0.75 camalot will get you to the chains.  Not your typical creek climb.

Figure out the boulder problem off the deck by using the Volcan Neck Pinch jam. Cruiser #1s in a corner to the anchor. Good warmup for the shady right side of the wall.

This climb starts with some low quality rock to a good stance where the crack actually begins. Just to the left Horse Crack.

We stumbled across this route last weekend and we couldn't find any info on it and there is no plaque currently. It is the next route left of Pumpkin Spice. Tricky tips start in a flare leads to a jug and then quickly opens up to fingers in an offset. Continues through the sizes past two overlaps until heros take you to the chains. Amazing route with a distinct crux at the bottom.

If you have info on the route name or FA party please let me know!

This climb is located on the NE corner of the buttress. You can’t miss it!  Scramble up from the trail and belay at the base of the crack. Amazing climb—steep! Starts with #1s and gets wider to #3s towards the end.

A single bolt ~12 ft off the ground protects the first few awkward moves in soft rock. Pull into the calcite-covered corner, where you can get thin hand jams or layback the crack. The calcite is a bit crumbly and abrasive. The crack widens to hands up higher, and the rock is cleaner. Finish by pulling onto a ledge, to chain anchors.

Cow Crack climbs the thin-hands splitter (steeper than it looks) at the far left of Trick or Treat Wall. A moderate, low-angle ramp gets you to the splitter. At the top of the splitter, make some moves between finger jams and finish on the ledge below the giant roof. 80m or two ropes required.

The route starts with bouldery moves to get established in a finger crack. Small gear in solid rock can be placed to protect the moves off the ground. Continue up the crack to a small overlap, pull that into a corner, and continue up to the ledge. The crack slowly widens from fingers to 0.75 and 1 Camalots.

The route name and first ascentionists were obtained from Karl Kelley's excellent book Creek Freak. The plaque at the base gives a rating of 11 while the book gives this a 10+; I thought a good rating was somewhere between the two. If you're strong on green Camalots you might find it easier.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Trick or Treat Wall