Climb the technical slab maybe 5.12- up to the roof. After a few moves out the roof you will encounter a sequence on badly sloping pinches that requires good body tension to climb through. After this the rest of the route is easier to the anchors. If you can convince someone to TR it to clean that would be in your best interests as cleaning while lowering is a pain.

Phantasia

Little Dutch Boy

Bobsledding

Le Petite Bazaar

Creature Feature

Tomfoolery

Count Floyd Show

You Got Served

Overlord

Luck's Up

The Gum Traverse

Attack of the Sand Shark

St. Alfonso's

Perverse Intentions

Grand Bazaar

Pogue Ethics

Trogdor's Crack (pending)

Twinkie

Over the Flies

Creep Show

Lord of the Flies

One of the most popular 5.12a's at the Red, Twinkie is an excellent route with two distinct personalities: yellow & spongey at first, followed by a white creamy center.   And just like the Hostess version, it helps to be well-rounded to enjoy this treat.

Begin with a reachy boulder problem to gain the slab.  Easy moves between slopey pockets leads to a gnarly little slab crux involving a sharp 1/4" crimp and a sidepull mono.  Above this a series of jugs lead to a great rest below the intimidating overhang.  Follow massive jugs up the steep wall to a difficult move getting to the 3rd bolt on the overhanging, then more jugs to the redpoint crux: one not-so great pinch just before reaching the arete.  A sit-down rest provides one last breather before the sprint to the anchor on more enormous jugs.

The face directly around the other side of the arete from Lord of the Flies. Some tricky, reachy moves on a face that’s usually dirty. Try to find the single finger pocket for which the route was named.  Either be sure-footed and inventive with gear, or TR from anchors on Lord of the Flies.

Traverse out the roof, then climb up into the crack. Once at the ledge rappel from a tree

This is a short climb up a lichen covered dihedral.  Look for it about 80 feet to to the right of Grand Bazaar.

A "hero" climb with one cool steep move and a lot of huge holds.

Get up to the ledge at the base of the route, just below the big roof and clip a bolt. Lean out over the roof to some big holds and ape your way onto those. You can practically campus the route from there, but heel-hooks look cooler. Clip a bolt above the roof and pull up to stand on the less-than-vertical face. Continue up on plates and puzzle pieces to a set of anchors and lower off.

Second Pitch: Continue on plates and edges to the top of the rock with nuts and slings for gear.

This climb has more technical movement but more rest than its lesser-rated neighbor.  Which is actually harder depends on your skill and endurance. Climb the wandering line just left of the arete near "Creature Feature" past a series of cruxes and rests to a bolted anchor. It has been debated at length which climb is actually harder...

Like the other moderate trad in the area this can be a dirty and moist route.  You'll climb a hand crack to a left-leaning flake.  Bring big gear for the flake it's close to off-width.

technical, balancey, slabby route.  very atypical of the red river gorge.  lots of small crimps up the face, with the crux coming near the top.

From Phantasia continue down the trail and around a corner overhanging area. Just past the corner you'll see the bolts. The face is green and moist from moss growth :(

Start on Attack of the Sand Shark and belay at the anchor. Lead out right with good pro past an exposed 5.6 mantle to easier terrain. Belay on the ledge. Either rappel from a tree with webbing, or continue up the sparsely protected face (5.6?) to the top and walk off right.

Follow the clean, parallel-sided left hand crack off the starting block to a relaxing ledge for regrouping. Stem the upper corner between good stances for shallow gear placements. Be aware of a touch of moisture and a ceiling of spider webs as you topout on a jug or two to a convenient stance for clipping the anchors.

A fun route worth climbing. Chimney up to gain crack and generous edges. Proceed by using jams and fading edges through flaring slot (crux) to the top. Rap from trees-slings/ring.

Start on a hill, just left of a large flake/chimney there are a series of right and wrong open hand moves up and left.  Clipping holds are all good so find the right ones.

Just to the right of Perverse Intentions you'll see a huge flake that goes fairly straight up the wall.

A long route on jugs and plates. The crux comes about halfway up, when you are forced to negotiate a bulge. There is a sit-down ledge rest before the crux, though.

Large crack in wall starts as chimney, and gradually narrows to wide fingers at the top. Could not find any records of this being a climb, and I broke off a lot of thin sandstone along the way.  Has the potential to be a classic if it can get some love. It has everything you can do with crack climbing in one route, with a quick section of committing hand jams.

Climb the (other*) crack between

Overlord

and

Lord of the Flies

*not

You Got Served

A pumpy 10d next to a technical 11b.  I've heard it several times that climbers believed that the grades on these two routes were reversed!

Get on to the left of the two sport routes and head up and left on it into an awkward and pumpy left-leaning flake. Balance and grip your way to the anchors on this climb, then compare to the route to the right...

Head up the heavily pocketed face, also utilizing the arete on the left when necessary.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Phantasia