A fun single pitch fingercrack, this thing would be as popular as P1 of

Dave's Deviation

if it was in a more accessible area. The book gives it 5.9, but I think thats a bit soft compared to climbs in the area. Mostly good jams, a little thin at the top but you have the dihedral to work with at that point.

Start on a face between

My Pink Half of the Drainpipe

and a right-facing dihedral on your left, where a couple of face moves leads to an obvious finger/hand crack with a bush in it 25 feet up. Theres a blocky section just past this with one sort of loose block, but its easy climbing. The crack continues up, thinning towards the top where it merges with the dihedral. A two bolt anchor/rap station is on the left.

Last Grapes

Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe Exit

Bitchen Lichen

North East Rib

Birdman

My Pink Half of the Drainpipe

Like'n to Lichen

Funky step over from the left to gain the first bolt (total shit, rusty 1/4) but an easy move gets to the second bolt. 5 bolts total. Trick slab all the way with some cool mantles and dime edging.

Why rappel back down from these routes when you can exit to the top?

From the tree atop Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe head up gully 40 feet and then traverse left under a roof and then up.  After too much rope drag belay.  Head straight up easy ground aiming for a large dead tree, shared with El Whampo finish.

From here you have already begun the North Gully Descent.  Probably does not take too much more time than rapelling back to your packs and although mellow it is quite enjoyable.

I am adding this separate from Lik'en to Lichen because it's easily accessible from the finish tree of Last Grapes, which then avoids the nasty loose blocks on Lik'en to Lichen

Bitchen Lichen is a pretty sweet pitch, traverse down and right from the end of Last Grapes to access a thin seam with a pin. I backed up the pin with some really small wires. Thoughtful and balancy moves with better gear bring you to an old button head bolt, clip that then turn the corner to the right, great small cam just a few moves higher. Good exposure and tricky moves on this one, if it would clean of a bit of Lichen it would be a must do.

From large ledge up and left over Small roof w fixed pin. From here take your pick between number of variations.

The most obvious will be the cleanest. Route can be dirty and loose. Lots of fun maybe a step up from The Trough but not as clean.

This one pitch route has a wide variety of moves on it.  An exciting undercling (5.10A) takes you right to a steep lieback (5.10B).  Liebacking and jamming (5.10A) on a steep wall with two cracks leads up to a short undercling and lieback (crux), and easier ground above.

Some attractive crack climbing with an unfortunate section of loose blocks on pitch one. Pitch one is known as "Like'n to Lichen", starts on NE Farce for about 30ft then traverses left at a small bush to a cluster of loose blocks that are downright terrifying. Climb carefully through the blocks to a stance and good pro then step right to a 10c crux jam crack (go deep for finger locks). Follow a small dihedral through a roof and set up a belay above the roof or head up and left to a tree anchor above

Last Grapes

and

My Pink Half of the Drainpipe

.

P2 is known as "Bitchin' Lichen" and traverses right to a thin seam with a piton, then straight to to the corner of a roof with a bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Northeast Buttress