Boulder #3, Problem 5

Same start for 1000 Pounds but use a couple crimpy gastons and a Honnold style karate kick to exit right on the arete

3.5 Pounds off my Back

Fire and Ice

Earth and Wind

no name

dig deep

high on crack,sit start

Dig Deep Right

no name yet

Super Futuristic Bloc

no hug

If Only

on crack

left to right

TUMS (Toss Up My Shoes)

1000 pounds off my back

Spocker Shocker

Culobreaker

Grand Gallery Arete (aka High on Crack)

dab along

death spike

Finnicky

big hug

Chokey

sunshine line

Not Your Average Choss

sit start, left hand on low jug block,right hand on sidepull pocket

Stand start on big vertical edge next to orange streak. Lunge to 2 small positive pockets. Go left to jutting black point, and mantle up to large pocket.

Downclimb: go way right up under the Pine Tree. Keep going right until you can walk off.

To the left of Fire and Ice.  Starts with right hand in undercling pocket, left hand up to deep pocket, dynamic/static move (depending on height) up to a right hand pinch, bump right up to sloper jug to an easy top out.

this problem is in the river bed on the small boulder that has been dug out.

sit start low. first move into good pocket then move left up real bad slopers.

start at the left of the face. right hand on pocket, left hand on crimp

Right exit of Dig Deep. Same low start on a left hand side pull and right hand crimp block. Find a way to make a hard move out the dirt to a jug pocket, then either make easier, smaller moves up bad slopers to the jug or throw left up to a bad sloper 6 inches to the left of the jug and then make a desperate move to get your right hand to the jug. Feet up and the jug makes the top out easy. The first move on this problem seems to be harder if you're taller

The epitome of Little Rock spraywall-ness. Start on the V4 arete Left to Right, then iron cross out to Grand Gallery/High on Crack and top out as per that problem. Stay off the slab behind you after transitioning into High on Crack

stand start to big hug.

start on huge block go up crack.

This is essentially an alternate start to dig deep right; but it changes the climb completely! Lay down start with left hand on what is the right hand start for dig deep (golf ball looking pinch) and right hand in the neat yet painful double pocket feature. Go into dig deep right. The taller you are the easier the top is and harder the bottom; the shorter you are the easier the bottom is and harder the top is. Depending on your beta, this thing can have some pretty cool movement.

stand start to high on crack.

stant start on nice crimps follow crack up and right

Start sitting on lowest chalked up sloper on the arete. Follow the arete with you hands until the top of the boulder. Feet are pretty good the entire way. (Heel hook on the arete helps a lot at the beginning)

Sit start with right hand sidecling and left on undercling block. Bump left up the arete then find a way to get to the top. Funnest way is just throwing right hand from the start hold. Somewhere between LCC V4 and Joe's V5/6 (I'll give you V9 if you don't dab the tree branch on the top out). Walk off the back and all the way around from Death Spike (have someone toss up your approach shoes) or just jump off onto a pad.

If anyone has info on this, let me know and I'll change it

Sit start in the middle of the face that uses a hard cross out of a gaston to get to the seam, then follows On Crack to finish. Not sure if it's been done before, but the beta's in the (proposed) name.

A hard traverse on bad crimps and tricky feet that doesn't let up until you hit the jugs. Make sure you know your top out beta!

Variation:

For a harder line, staying off the left hand pinch/crimp before the move into the pocket makes the climb feel solid V9.

AKA: High on Crack

Start with your left hand on a crimp and right hand in a good dish-looking sloper. Follow the arete of the boulder and top out where the block has broken off. What was a jug to top out on is now a V1 sequence on good slopers. Some say a heel-hook helps in the middle, others say it does not. Play around with the beta and send it!

start on jug undercling move up right,try not to dab.

stand start,left hand on pinch,right hand on sidepull crimp

After hitting a polished right hand crimp, sink a high heel-toe cam and come onto a left hand sloper. Crux is getting out of this position up to the lip.

start low on jugs, make a big hug up and left into the crack.

this is a huge boulder with a rocky landing

Start sitting under the over hang. Right hand in a crimpy side pull crack, left hand under roof on a blocky hold. Keep tight, and avoid the tree, and the surrounding boulders.

If you like your holds small and sharp, this is the line for you (you sick masochistic freak)! Start on the right side of the Brian boulder, right hand on a side pull crimp and left hand side pull jug in the crack. Hit the jug meat hook then traverse left through the face on some small crimps. Big move to the jug at the lip then top out on High On Crack

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Routes in Little Rock Canyon Boulders