Herminator has vertical, sharp climbing on pretty big holds all the way to the anchors.

Herminator

Scavenger's Daughter

British Persuasion

Mismatched Partners

Judgment Day

Scraggle Face McCrackerson

Provence Côte d'Azur

Le Petit Verdon

Lesser of Two Evils

The Rack

Run for the Shadows

Under The Gun

Freeloader

CJ & The Lesbian Seagull

Mighty Mouse

Thank You, Minneapolis!

Climb big holds to the first clip. Hug the arete past the second clip. Climb straight up the cruxy bulge to the anchors.

Start on the right side for the better holds to clip C1 out left. Then you get tricky pocket pulling to C2. Near C2, move to the corner and a close C3. Climb nice hand jams and inside the crack holds with some thinker feet for 3 clips to a wedged block rest out left. Move right through 2 clips to the anchors.

British Persuasion has tricky climbing to C1: small crimps with not so good feet and a stretch to C2. Move up and left to the high C3. Climb the pocketed face for 2 clips to the anchors.

A little runout, this climbs the wall directly beneath a juniper tree and right of a wide crack. The crux is a little spicy with a bolt at your feet, but shake out on a good foot and hand. Then do a sidestep to a jug.

This has a tricky start on sharp rock to a vertical face. Gain the smallish break to the anchors.

Climb the scraggly flaring crack left of

Le Petit Verdon

. The crack is a bit gnarly but will still take pro. Climb to the left of the loose block at the top, and carefully step behind it to reach the anchors for

Le Petit Verdon

.

This has fine, albeit short climbing up the vertical face to the anchors.

Large jugs and steep climbing combine for a fun warmup at the Bank.

This is an excellent climb that doesn't get a ton of traffic.

To find this route, hike east (right) from the [Back to the Future Wall] about 100 yards to a thin, fairly tall wall that faces the trail.  Above and to the left is a ledge system that accesses 2 offwidth looking cracks and a thin face route ([The Devil Made Me Dog It] - 12c).  On the tall thin wall that faces the trail there is a bolted line that goes up the left hand side of the face near the arete.  This is '[The Lesser of Two Evils]'.  This route would be the second route that you would find if you were hiking west from the alcove that has the 3 routes - '

[Dancing Shoes'

, '

Ethics, What Ethics

]?', and '

[Aerial Solution

]'.  Route number 556 in [William Prehm's] photo.

[Lesser of Two Evils] is a great route that hugs the left side of an arete through 3 or 4 [separate] cruxes.  The cruxes, for me, included reaches on good holds, using some not-so-good holds, a funky little bulge, and some steep pinching to get to the anchors.

This route would be a great way to spend your time while waiting for traffic to free up on the nearby classics.

Scramble up to the ledge to C1. Follow the right-trending shallow groove with a few pockets, small side-pulls, and some reachy holds with hard-to-come-by feet for 2 clips to a great, smallish ledge. A position dependent move lets you clip C4 and get a stance on the smallish ledge. Move right to a huge pocket, and climb straight up on cruxy climbing past 2 clips to the anchors.

Great Shelf rock.

Scramble up to the high first bolt. Gain the nice, vertical, short face, then continue with black, slabby climbing to the anchors.

Work your way up the very shallow, left-facing dihedral to big hand holds with no feet. Follow the line of bolts up through the easier broken terrain above. If you encounter loose rock, you've likely strayed too far right. Just below the large cap rock, jog a bit left on big holds to the ring anchors.

The crux is short and height-dependent. Taller folks will probably find it closer to 10c.

This is a nice, easy climb on sharp holds with a small bulge that may be the crux.  This is a fun warmup in the shade, first thing in the morning.

This is a short route on red rock.  The first few moves combine small pockets and sharp crimpers up to a small overhang.

Climb sweet hands jams to finger locks and small hidden pockets out left with really tricky feet past C2 to C3 and a handy rest at C3. Clip C3 and move slighty right to the arete flake system. Climb sustained, overhanging climbing with good but some dusty holds to the anchors.

Description

Protection

Routes in 08. Lesser Of Two Evils