Hand jam to clip second bolt and then stay left of arete on blocks and fins. The headwall may be climbed direct (9+) via finger pocket or traversed out to right (9). Then pull pockets to the top.

en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eas…

Easter Rising

From Aldo to Abbey

Rope a Dope

Amazon

Bulges

Do the Next Right Thing

Deception

The Nose

Nice Guy Syndrome

The Houston S

Alberta

Route 66

Houston Variation

Chimney Route

Trapeze

This left-facing corner is an obvious line on John's. 

  A bouldery crux at the bottom is unprotected for about 15', or use a stick clip to clip the first bolt of Easter Rising.  It looks like the holds are positive, but many are slopers.  With a stickclip, this climb is well-protected with no unusual risk.  If you don't want to clip the bolt, it's only another foot or two until the first good gear placement: a hand size cam.  Might feel hard for its original 5.7 grade.

Farthest right set of anchors under broken roof.  Thin crack to large pockets on short face. May finish by climbing through roof and walk off (large block at lip sounds hollow).

Face climbing with decent, sometimes thin, holds. No fixed anchor, walk off

Amazon is the right-facing corner at the right side of the cliff.  Clamber up as for Houston S, clipping its first 2 bolts, but continue up the corner to a small roof.  You can reach over and clip more of the Houston S bolts if you want to, but you're still likely to want to place a few pieces of gear too.   There's a 2-bolt anchor just to the right under the roof.  Most will stop here rather than topping out by pulling the roof.  If you stop at the anchor, it's 5.8.  If you pull through the roof (as for the full original route), the roof is the crux, and is rated 5.9.

This finger crack follows a right-facing corner, and is the best natural line at Johns Wall.  Stem your way up passing 2 or 3 bulges.  The crux is near the top, where the climb overhangs and the crack thins.  Stem and pull on pockets through this to the chains.  Rated 5.9 in the old guide.

Work the overhanging flake to a diherdral, move right to newer bolted anchor shared with Nice Guy Syndrome.

 Some know this climb as "Heavens' Above" 

Climb shared line to left edge of roof, work the dihedral right above you. No fixed anchors, walk off. Thin protection at times.

This climb takes on the prow above the obvious big black bulge in the middle of the face, right of the obvious overhanging finger crack Bulges.  The upper section of this climb is really good. 

  There are 2 or 3 choices to begin: the bouldery Alberta start (bolt protected 5.10+) is the best one.   

  After you reach the big ledge, follow the bolt line up the prow.  The first bolt is just out of reach; if you bring a #0.75 camalot it is less stressful.  The prow is high quality sustained pocket pulling.  Stay out of the corner to the right, though it isn't very tempting. 

  Rated 5.10a in the old guide.

Saw this today October 7, 2018.  Not listed in mountain project so I assume its new.  Didn't even try and climb this so I have no idea what the grade is, but it looks fairly hard in the 11s maybe the 12s.  

Houston S is fun and cleaner than most at John's Wall. The start is shared with a mixed bolted/trad line (Amazon). There's a thin crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, which is harder for short people. Angle left on crimpy basalt climbing. The anchor is shared with Easter Rising. Rated 5.8 in the old guide.

I thought "Alberta" was a pretty good sport climb, for Johns Wall at least.  Some older guides list this as "The Face" at 5.9+, but a 5.9 climber will get his or her butt kicked. 

  It's a boulder problem to the first bolt (the landing is sandy still some timid leaders might consider stick-clipping).  Just before you reach the 2nd bolt is a really weird and unnerving mantle move.  After this, head up to the right on small edges & pockets, with the difficulty easing toward the top.

Begin at Houston, about 10' up there is a discolored rock, veer left and up. After initial steep and tough runnout, there are decent placements and some bolts on the face. The variation rejoins The Houston S at the 4th bolt. Shares last 2 bolts and fixed anchor with Houston.

Shimmy the chimney and walk off. No fixed gear/anchor.

When you hit the left edge of roof, go left around edge and shoot straight up. Follow thin crack with some face climbing mixed in. No fixed anchor, walk off.

South-facing basalt wall right off dirt road. Has around twenty routes and is a small sport/trad area. This wall is one of the toastiest winter walls in the area, but can be unbearable in the summer. The oldest established climbing area in the gorge, as such the fixed gear can be sketchy. Watch out for bad bolts, loose rock, and worn out chains. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in John's Wall