This is a good climb that involves a few face moves at the bottom and then gets easier near the top. Be aware of a possibility of a slight swing if sharing the anchors with the route to the right.

Conglomerate Face

Dihedral Route

Africa's West Coast

Icebreaker Arete

Unnamed Top Rope Section

Bird Shit Avenue

Cave Route

Oranges

Two Cent

Unknown North

Face Route

Apples

Roof Route

Monster Block Full SDS

Unnamed Overhang

The Chronic

South Corner

Joe Dirt™

Africa's East Coast: aka Noah's Crack

Out of the Black

Vision Quest

The Wide Side

Cheeseburger in Paradise

After Work Romp

Liberty's Last Stand

Unknown Deadpoint

Unnamed Corner

Child's Play

The Nose

Left of The Nose

Alpine Simulator

Baby's First Lead

Crackmard

South Chimney

Burkistan Direct

Broken Crack

Wishbone Crack

Unknown Crack #8

Northern Unnamed

Rough Hugs

Corner Climb

South OW aka Front Crack

Penumbra

Lichen Roof

Mother's Finest

B-Route

Purdy Dirty

Kahlua Roof

Right Through The Roof

This route ascends an obvious crack about 25 feet north of the

Roof Route

. This is a good route for the grade and would make a good beginning trad lead. A few nuts and some medium cams do the trick.

This route climbs the right dihedral next to the roof route. If you top rope it, watch out for the swing if you slip off the first little overhang. It passes one little overhang, then a second and meanders over to the right up big holds to the top.

The opening moves to get over the small roof feature are the crux of the route. The middle of the route is a dirty crack line filled with rain washed soil. Protection can be hard to find through this small section, but it is very easy terrain. In the upper section, you will find a finger crack with great protection placements. For building an anchor, top out and use a couple large boulders to the right.

Start low to the left of the arete, and make moves up the arete on good crimps. The crux is near the top.

Several variations can be accessed by these anchors. All are 5.7 and below.

Start at a finger crack running under about a 10 foot overhang. Climb the crack with decent feet to the top of the overhang, then veer to the left and climb around a small arete. This crack will go up about 10 more feet before splitting in two, take the left crack for the easier variation (about a 5.8) and the right crack for the more difficult variation (5.9). The crux of the route is following the finger crack over the overhang. Try not to use the ledge of a boulder directly behind the top of the overhang, as it makes the route significantly easier. The purest ascent is sticking directly to the face.

From the start hold 10 feet inside the cave on the left, follow the vertical to overhanging crack/flake system for about 20 feet to a large jug. Using an undercling on the roof, make a reach to a slopey hold and stem up the remaining 10 feet of crack to the top. ***DO NOT USE THE CHOCKSTONES IN THE CRACK.*** They are quite insecure and likely to fall out if used.

For full value on this route, do not use the east side of the cave wall for chimneying/stemming, but stay exclusively to the western overhanging wall until you reach the final crack section.

Climb the start of

Apples

, and move right at the break to climb the right face of the wall.

Two Cent is a cool, little climb far away from the main area. It must be climbed at low water. Start on an easy, runout, water polished slab to get to the horizontal break. Place gear, pull the crux over the small roof, and continue on fun moderate slab to the top.

Maybe somebody has more information. This route is the northern end of the ridge just before the property line and north￼ of

Northern Unnamed

.

This route is located on upper Duncan's Ridge. It is located about 25 feet to the south of the dihedral route mentioned on this site. There were 2 bolts at the top of this climb, right next to a nice crack. These bolts have since been removed.

To setup a TR anchor, all you need is a few medium hexes and a some tricams.  This route could probably be lead by loaded up on the pro right before the cruxy upper face.

The route begins with 25 feet of 5.5 rock to a small ledge system.  The rock then become smoother with hidden edges.  Follow small edges for 20 feet to the top.  The easy variation is to the right, and the harder variation is to the left.

Go up and over the major roof at Duncan's Ridge. The route is dead center in the middle of the Ridge between the

5.7 Corner

and the

5.9 Dihedral

route.

This is the full sit start to the Icebreaker, V4. Start matched on a crimpy rail, get a heel hook slap to the right hand crimp, and catch your left hand on a thin undercling.

Begin just right of the

Unnamed Corner

.  Climb to the overhang on good holds.  Reach for the crimps on the crest of the ledge and throw for a higher hand.  Pull over and climb the ladder of good holds to the top.

Sit start on a good left hand pinch and a small right hand sidepull crimp (the same start as

Mother's Finest

). Make the first two moves of

Mother's Finest

, then traverse left, and top out on the lower part of the boulder.

This route starts with a high step from a boulder on the ground. Following up and slightly left into a right-facing dihedral, one finds steeper terrain with a placeable crack. Towards the top, step left (watch for loose rock) and finish over a tiny bulge to the top.

Joe Dirt™ is a decent beginner lead, though somewhat dirty. Positive holds keep you near the line of weakness.

This is a direct crack line, with a slight overhang at ~10'. It has great hands and sticky feet. This is obvious and awesome. . . it may be the best line ever. It was a brave FA.

Climb the overhang of the Patriot Tower up into the arete. Move up on edges right of the arete and transition left on the face. Once you've successfully transitioned to the face move up on a right hand crimp on the face (left of the arete) and lunge to a deep seem on the far left side.

It is 5.12 when climbing straight up the face near the right arete.

You can bail out left at the top and completely skip the 5.12 crux, making it 5.11-.

Climb one of two weaknesses in the rock just south of the alternate descent route.

Start in the very easy (5.4) crack system below the flake, which takes good gear but honestly isn't needed. Once you reach the flake, pull into the offwidth between the flake and the wall (5.7). Climb the easy but fun offwidth to the top (5.6) for the last 15 feet. This is a great solo, but it can also be led to practice some gear placements. This takes great gear from a #3 to #5 Camalot. The whole route can be done with a #3 and #4/5 very easily.

If you set up a top rope, there is a fun 5.8+ variation of the bottom of the climb. Climb the steep, fairly blank face to the left of the easy crack system at the bottom up until the offwidth.

This is the first face climb right of the nose routes. Do a V2 boulder problem off the ground to get above the first large roof.

I imagine this has been climbed before, because I'll come here and just climb anything that looks possible. I can only image that over the years other people have had the same approach to this area. Everything is short and pretty easy. If you know anything about this line, please post about it.

This climbs the face/slab to the left of the arete. The route is climber's left of the route '

Unknown North

, 5.7+'. There is a ledge about halfway up the route, and the first 15ish feet of climbing is 5.5 if that. The climbing starts off the ledge and in the corner. It works out right to the arete on thin holds. The "hard" climbing is in the middle of the face, and once you gain the arete, it's pretty much over. You could maybe TR it from the anchors at the top, but it would probably be more of a hassle than it's worth. I enjoyed the climbing and wanted to share it.

This route is located just to the south of the 5.9 face route on Duncan's Ridge. It is about 35 to 40 feet in height and has a mini-roof about 15 feet up on it. The crux of the route is about three quarter's of the way up the route.

Fire this one move wonder off of the small crimp flake around head height and a low right undercling. Get your feet on, and deadpoint straight to the sharp, conglomerate jug at the lip (which annihilated my hand, so I suggest tape), and top out with an easy mantel.

Step up and jam over the first bulge, then follow the obvious corner up and out.  Grab the jugs at the corner exit and let your feet fly!  Angle out right to the top.

SDS on a left hand sidepull and a right hand pinch with your feet on an obvious rail, and then climb straight up the arete to the top.

Two variations exist. The left variation may go slightly easier than the right.

Left (North) - start to the left of the roof, climb to the undercling/overhang, surmount it (crux), and go left around the arete into a crack. Follow it to the top.

Right (South) - start with a bouldery roof move (crux) into a crack. Continue past some broken, blocky rock into another crack, and follow it to the top.

Not to be confused with the Left Nostril, this line starts directly below the same dihedral on the left side of

The Nose

. This route was challenging and varied but seemed no harder than 5.7, so I thought it might be a welcome addition to new climbers.

Start on a rock and step up onto a small sloping shelf directly below a bulge. Work right into a lichen covered open book, and head straight up to the small, blocky overhangs just left of

The Nose

roof. Going left under the first overhang then back right under the second leaves the climber in the left-facing dihedral with a clear line to the top of the ridge.

Right of "

Unnamed Overhang

", a precarious stack of rocks leads to a finish with great position.

Stay on the face left of the death blocks as long as possible.

This is a good, short lead. Make initial moves to get into the crack, plug gear, and top out. Use an easy sling anchor.

Follow a wide crack up a slab. As it gets steeper, jugs appear on both sides. Hand-traverse right (crux), using awkwardly high but positive feet, into a chimney. Pull around the flake on the left and finish in the handcrack.

Avoid the bush by climbing the small cracks on the left side of the wall. Use the jugs to get up into the chimney. It's a short but fun chimney. Use the crack or the crimps on the sides.

A steep start with feet on marginal rock leads up to a crack/flake system.

This route has two possible starts; both are hand cracks with face holds on ether side that rise 15 or 20 feet off the deck. If you start on the right (south) side, you can hop over to the left crack about 20 feet up. I believe the right start is easier? Run up the remaining crack to a short chimney and top out.

This ascends the crack feature right of the Africa Cracks beginning on a positive flake. The topout is somewhat loose. The rest of the climb is good but short.

The crux comes right off the bat: jam through the initial overhang, then hang a right around the boulder.  Pull over a small bulge into a left-facing corner, and either take the finger seam or the nice flake to the top.  This route climbs better than it looks from the ground.

Do a low sit start with a big, left hand, flake sidepull with a good heel hook below your hand and a right hand sidepull undercling. Throw right, and compress your way straight up.

The climb goes up the left corner next to the prominent roof. Follow the crack up for your line. It is a little slabby. The hardest moves are definitely the last 4 feet. It's a tall top rope so have fun.

The route is located through the brush about 100 feet south of the roof route area. It's a prominent hand crack start followed by a short offwidth and tops out on a blocky face.  Start with the nice hand crack (5.7+) for 15 feet to the offwidth.  Enter the offwidth and grunt through (crux) whereupon climbing eases towards the top.

Note that a TR can also be set from above.

A nice and quick intro to hand cracks and offwidths.

Start on some jugs, move into the big undercling, and climb the left side of the overhang/arete. The difficulty eases a bit after gaining a large dish. Be prepared for a committing top section.

Start to the right of large crack obvious broken crack. The crux roof is low on the face and will be easy to find. Pull the roof, then continue up the easier face to a good crack that runs to the top of the cliff.

Sit start with a big, left hand pinch and a small, right hand crimp. Make a big, right hand move to an undercling slot crack, and continue going up using underclings and maybe a kneebar here and there.

Start on

Corner Climb

until it's possible to traverse left, and finish on the upper crack of

Conglomerate Face

.

I think the greatness of this route is hidden beneath all the dirt and dust!  Start in the finger seam, then move up to the overhang on finger pockets.  Stem through and head straight up the smooth water groove to an awesome crimp rail.  Exit via either variation of the

Dihedral Route

.  With mileage and cleaning, I think this could be one of the better routes on The Ridge.

Start at the bottom of the roof on two underclings, and climb power moves out the roof to a hard crux at the lip. Do a tough mantle, then climb the easy slab (5.4).

Take the crack up, then head right under the roof, and climb over.

Description

Protection

Routes in Duncan's Ridge