Start in a well featured, lichen crusted moderate hand crack in a left-facing corner 20' right of

Alliteration Arete

. Navigate some maple bushes as the crack turns into a short gully, and find the headwall. The crux is the headwall featuring finger locks and face climbing protected by intermittent cracks. Angle left (protected by small wires and a RP) under the roof to where the line joins the last bolt of

Alliteration Arete

(a #0.4 Camalot can be placed 6" right of that bolt for a pure trad line).

Note: it seems unlikely that this hasn't been climbed yet - given the previous crag development, but we trundled a death-block and left several loose rocks (just right of the route) in the gully to preserve the nature of this climb. It's a bit wooly, and depending on the future traffic, it may require some lichen gardening (minimal) to establish pro.

Show Me Where It Says I Can't Do This

Finger Crack

Alliteration Arete

Whoazzur Arete

Alliteration Arete is an enjoyable route that climbs a lot better than it looks. It is best to lower from the top as the stance at the anchor is poor.

This is a climb with 20 feet of very good climbing in a crack followed by reasonable climbing for 65 additional feet.  The climb may feel somewhat misnamed.  Although it is characterized by a crack at the bottom, it is only 1/3 of the climb and wider than fingers for half of that, ranging from 0.75" to 2".  After the crack, head up and slightly left passing a short-needled fir to the left side of it, then up and left more to pass a long-needled pine to the right side before cutting more sharply left (maybe slightly run-out, but on very moderate terrain) to head up and left to the bolted anchor with rap hangers at the top of the climb 'Open Book.' The slight run-out up top can be avoided by going left under the pine and finishing via the 2 bolts on the top of "Open Book." Rap 85'.

Whoazzur Arete starts with deceptively tricky moves over a small overhang at the first bolt. On the arete above ascend on thin holds past three bolts. Finish by climbing past two bolts on the upper headwall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mystery Rock