This climb packs a punch for only being 40ft long.  Start up the right facing corner and traverse under the roof for 15ft.  This climb is well protected and worth the effort. A mid size hex is useful at the lip, in case your second comes off.

Make a some what scary rap from a small tree.  Will it hold?  It did for us...

Circus Roof

No Net

Circus Direct

Vulture Crack

Flyboy

Follow a some what grainy right facing corner just left of

Circus Roof

.  This arching feature is worth the effort, if you are in the area.

Rap off chain anchor.

I don't know why I ever even bothered to tie in for this route, but don't make the same mistake. This may well be the worst route at the City. Awkward moves up chossy rock on the arete lead to a desperate reach for the crack of Circus Roof. A better variation is to do any other route in the area besides this one.

Worthy of a quick spin, the

Vulture Crack

will deliver entertainment. Solid gear, an aesthetic line, and a rewarding crux make this a good option on a crowded day. Plan on devoting time to this one.

Rack up and belay from the ground then scramble up the slab to reach the start. Begin with a solid hand crack that leads up and into the "vultures den". Crawl out of this trap and forge on to a small, sloping ledge at the base of a dihedral. Follow an excellent crack up for 20 feet to the routes end. Build an anchor.

To descend walk off to the west or north using the anchors of

Scream Cheese

or

Fly Boy

to rap.

This is a great route for morning sun or to avoid the wind.  To start the route, scramble up to the upper ledge from the right side.  You will see a tree at the beginning of the start of the climb.

Follow a handful of bolts and pins up moderate 5.10 face to the crux bulge at the last bolt. It is probably better to rap the route, since the anchor are set back from the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Anteater - East