A powerful bouldery bulge leads to an awkward dihedral, then finish in a bombay chimney.

Proctology Exam

Godzilla Does the Dizzy Tango

Brewtalized

Maximus Cauldron

Gape Index

Looney Binge

Looney Left

Sniveling

Letter Bomb

Cowering

Looney Tunes

More Handsome than Honnold

Unknown

Shortest Yard

Civilized

Billion Million

Longest Yard

Disco Inferno

Freddie Flores

Flakenstein

The Worm Rig

Towering Inferno

Slacker

Make a few steep, bouldery moves off the ground past the first and second bolts up to the pockets in the right-facing corner.  Punch it straight out the roof crack past a couple of valuable rests, then fight the pump to pull the lip.  Make a couple more sequences up to the chains.

Difficult/bouldery opening moves (.12-) through an overhang into a traverse right (.11) utilizing face holds and underclings in the crack.

Plenty of good rests throughout the climb. Some bird poop on the good finger crack rest, but you'll be thankful for it anyways.

(This was the first route in the Eldorado Roof)

A powerful overhang, followed by a steep dihedral, then finish on a long undercling right.

Climb Flakenstein, then continue up the Brewtalized dihedral, then do a powerful undercling left to the Letter Bomb/Slacker anchor.

Looney Binge is an absolutely classic endurance testpiece on the underside of the Eldorado Roof.  It is way less thuggy than it appears, and makes for a wonderful climb.

Begin just left of center on a pile of cheater stones at a weakness in the wall.  Climb up past an initial undercling crux (12a) to a no-hands rest.  Continue up the short dihedral to the second crux below the roof (12b) which gains a crazy flake system.  Follow this off to the right for many clips to a difficult section around a bulge, and then more easily to an intermediate anchor.  Recover here and keep going!  Three or four more clips on interesting, vertical face climbing/traversing leads to the anchor on Towering Inferno P1.  Lower off with a 70m cord.

Start as for Looney Binge but bear left at the roof for a few moves before the chains.

Begin on Letter Bomb, but after the first bolt traverse right on underclings, then do a hard boulder problem that ends at the large flake on Slacker. Do the crux on Slacker, then move right, reversing the crux of Maximus Cauldron, then join Brewtalized, and continue underclinging right to its anchor at the lip of the roof. Bouldery and enduro.

The crux begins as your feet leave the ground.  Do a V2ish roof boulder problem to gain a 5.7 chimney.  Follow that up to a pile of bird shit and clip the chains.

Not that fun, but it is the start to 'Looney Tunes', which is mega.

This route is an extension and a great improvement to Chongin in the Hood. This rig is excellent endurance crack climbing through three distinct cruxes. Begin at the far right side of the Eldordo Roof. Jam, undercling, and face climb past the chains on Chongin' to a final dihedral that is the crux. Step right to clip anchors at the lip of the roof which are shared with Brewtilized. A 70 meter rope will get you back down to the ground.

Starts on Letter Bomb then into an undercling traverse left. Turn the corner and get into a pod and catch your breathe. Go out the horizontal roof crack into a tough lip encounter... Sick!!!

Start on Brewtalized, but instead of traversing right on underlings at the big roof, head straight out via the crack feature.

Starts as for Godzilla, moving left awkwardly past the second bolt. Punch out right through the bulge using the drilled pocket, then up and left to the anchors.

Didn't have a guidebook or anything there, so please update with name/FA etc.

Shorter variation of

Longest Yard, 12c

. This var. ends at the

Proctology Exam

anchor. Crux between 2nd and 3rd bolt.

Climb the Godzilla overhang to a strenuous undercling left, followed by a bouldery finish.

Climb Letter Bomb then up and left via a strenuous undercling, continuing across a technical section, then cross the powerful bulge on Loony Binge.

Climb the steep crack, then undercling right to the bombay chimney above Proctology Exam, exit the chimney via a difficult move, then continue underclinging right to the long strenuous horizontal fake of Loony Binge, pass this, then traverse some interesting face to a belay on the Towering inferno.

3 pitches

Difficult vertical start (clipping 3rd bolt)is followed by 2 full pitches of traversing.

- P1 5.11a is also P1 of Towering Inferno (5.11b). The traverse is sufficiently protected but you sure won't want to fall.

- P2 5.10d is almost as good but a chossy section and a less obvious line make it deserving of less stars in the Marty Lewis guide book. Reaching the anchors might be the heady crux.

- P3 5.10c heads up

(more details on bolts and distance coming soon. just getting it on here for now).

Fred shares its start with Towering Inferno. After Inferno's 4th bolt head straight up to an overhanging left-facing dihedral. Stem and make a reachy clip on the face around the corner to your right. Move around the corner, and then continue straight up past 10 more bolts on sometimes overhanging rock to the anchor.  It helps to back clean the first 2 or 3 bolts of Towering Inferno to lessen rope drag.

A bouldery face leads to a steep pumpy undercling left.

Start on the crack of Shortest Yard (11c), then continue on Gape Index, do the roof crux (12b) and then take the flake to your right for a few more bolts to the end of the flake. The route ends at the final bolt, not an anchor.

For novelty, length, and position, an ORG must-do.

P1 (11a) -- the grand traverse.  Start in alcove at lower right of roof.  Crux bet. 3rd and 4th bolt.  If you're tall you can clip the 3rd bolt from a secure stemming stance.  The rest of the pitch is fairly manageable unless you indulge the rookie impulse/mistake and get too high on the traverse.  15 bolts.

P2 (11a) -- Excellent right off the belay with a definitive crux through the small roof, near the 5th bolt, then backs off. 10 bolts.

P3 (10d?) -- The rock deteriorates, but not the climbing.  Weird cups & bowls; some meandering.  Crux near end of pitch. 10 bolts.

P4 (11b) -- Tricky.  Do full recon (with fingers, not eyes) before committing .   Crux passing 2nd bolt. 10 bolts

P5 (11a) -- Turn the first corner low.  Then a powerful boulder problem rendered less so on account of heel lever on shelf.  5 bolts.

Descent: rap the route with one 60 meter rope, with the final rappel over the roof to the ground.

Tackle a funky dihedral that gets the juices flowing, then undercling you way left on a flake system that eventually curves up to the base of a huge roof with an undercling.  Undercling left again, marvel at the guano deposit, and clip the anchors.

Back clean to retrieve gear.  Fun route, with a killer (optional) knee-bar.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eldorado Roof