From the lower left side of the Transformer Ledge, use the same start as Deceticon. Stick clip the first bolt which is just a foot or so on the left side of the arete and directly below the large upper dihedral. Boulder up into a side pull flake to get started off the ledge, pass the second bolt of Decepticon and then start working left into the base of the left facing corner system above. Using an assortment of cams ranging from micro to medium/large, stem up the huge but moderate dihedral and lean back a little at the end for a fun exit.

There is also a direct start which ascends the slab face just left of the typical 4th class ascent to the Transformer Ledge. It doesn't add any difficultly but adds some extra technical climbing if you want to extend the route and is pretty fun.

Grave Digger

Bumble Bee

Talk Dirty To Me

Batteries Not Included

Vampire Diaries

Pornstar Punishment

Magician’s Way

Rear Naked Choke

Rubber Cookie

April Fools

Weenie Roast

Bone Crusher

Imaginary Diseases

True Blood

Fortune Cookie

Decepticon

Pepper Shaker

Triangle Choke

Welcome to Cooks

Hunting Werewolves

Big Girls Don't Cry

Optimus Prime

Megatron

Ride'n Dirty

Although this route does technically start off the Transformer Ledge, it climbs much better from the ground as one full pitch. From the ground, start 10' right of Pepper Shaker and ascend the first obvious staircase chimney feature, which will put you onto the extreme left side of the Transformer Ledge. From here, stick clip a high bolt on the smooth face above the ledge. Step onto the large shelf in the bottom of the small dihedral and immediately stat working directly right onto the face. Just after the bouldery start and first bolt, get a medium size cam to your left in a hortizontal letterbox and then work up and right for a small to medium cam in a vertical slot. Continue straight up the face past another bolt, another small cam and a dicey finish. Use the same anchors as Bone Crusher.

The crux on this one can definitely sting. From the center of the transformer ledge, fire straight up and slightly left through the center of the wall past a distinguished crux at the 3rd bolt. Bigger holds lead to anchors.

This is an extension to Fortune Cookie that adds a little extra bite by piercing the cennter of the upper headwall. Once at the anchors of Fortune Cookie, continue straight past them and into the ever steepening face that demands a short burst of power at the top for the slightly cryptic crux section.

Left of Pepper Shaker at the very base of the cliff is a prominent, dark bulge sticking out of the wall down low just above head height. Climb the short dihedral/crack on the right side of this bulge to the small ledge on the right. Clip a bolt out left and go straight up the white smooth face above the bulge. Plug some medium sized cams on the face below the roof. Pull a couple strenuous crux moves over the roof and immediately start angling to the right through the weakness. Get a few small to medium cams along the way before clipping a bolt up and right towards the end of the weakness. From here follow the unexpectedly good vertical seam through the headwall to ring anchors and try not to peel at the end.

This is a tricky and beta specific route that gives a lot of people a hard time until they figure out the sequence. Technique your way past two bolts and head left into the dihedral, aiming for a very large flat hold on the outer edge of the dihedral. Clip the 3rd bolt from here and throw you're whole left calf muscle onto the ledge to make a long reach into the blind crux. Even shorter climbers can do it this way. Turn the left side of the arete and veer right up the face above the arete to enter the spooky upper dihedral. Heady lead.

Crux is a cryptic stretch just before the anchors.  Long route with lots of fun climbing.  60 meter rope will just barely put you back on the ground; put a knot in the end of the rope!  Once this gets more traffic and cleans up just a bit, its bound to be an area classic.

Magician’s Way shares the same start as Imaginary Diseases. Clip the first bolt of Imaginary and start moving up and right to clip a stainless wave bolt in the middle of the face. From here you will be looking straight up a thin vertical crack that goes through a couple bulges. Follow this seam using small cams. Get one or two mid sized cams under the small roof before firing the crux and dancing up a pumpy face to anchors.

Bouldery route which pulls the large overhang midway down the wall.

This is an excellent traditional lead with good movement and fairly consistent difficultly.

Ten feet right of the low triangular roof is a large stump at the base of the cliff. From the stump, climb straight up the corridor-like weakness, past a bolt at 30' and then move low and to the right around and under the right side of the large overhang at 50'. Once around the overhang, follow the path of least resistance up slightly less than vertical rock to cold shut anchors at the left top of the cliff.

Tricky,tricky. Stick clip the first high bolt on the very prominent arete and climb tough sequences through overhangs to anchors underneath the triangular roof.

Definitely stick clip the first bolt on this one due to the very bad landing. This route is fairly serious for the grade so don't take it lightly.

From the lowest part of the wall, climb past the first bolt, then try to get good gear before continuing straight up into a large right leaning dihedral. Follow the dihedral and traverse 'right' across a face to finish on a large ledge.

Stainless bolted line just left of Fortune Cookie.

Add a little bite to your climbing day by tackling the arete of Hunting Werewolves and finishing on the upper dihedral of Vampire Diaries. Climb Hunting Werewolves to the fourth bolt and move left instead of right, into the upper finish of VPD.

Pull around a fun, soft for 10a roof, and haul to a bolted anchor.  Maybe a bit of loose rock, not bad.

On the left side of the Transformer Ledge, stand on its low left side and just on the left side of the arete. At the base of the arete, clip a high first bolt and work up and left to gain a vertical flake. Move right after the second bolt and get a couple small cams in a horizontal crack at the base of the overhang. Get into the sustained crux that follows a vertical seam up the prominent blunt headwall, which is to the right of the large left facing dihedral. After the pin, small and medium cam placements will protect you to the anchors.

Climb past 6 shiny stainless bolts to a bolted anchor.  Fun route with a high crux.  The bolt is at your feet for the crux, so if 5.9 is your limit this would be an exciting but fun and pretty safe lead.

The big brother to rear Naked Choke, Triangle Choke climbs around the right side of the low triangular roof.

Start up the 20' face directly beneath the large triangular roof and climb up to its base into a stance before the crux. Traverse right and find a small thin dish on the lip of the roof on its far right side. Pull the strenuous roof before moving immediately back left into a stance directly above the center of the roof. Tech your way up the bulging face and into a short dihedral before steeping right and up the steep prow by following the cut out through its center.

Jam your way up and then over the upper roof, move right on the face past 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Growl through burly sequences up the grey and orange arete to a stance above the 4th bolt. Move slightly right into extremely steep terrain and claw your way to victory.

This is the last climb on the farthest left hand side of The Fin

Start just right of a large stump. Climb the face past a bolt into a small right facing dihedral capped by a roof at 25'. Pull the thin roof and run out easy terrain to the anchors.

From the right side of The Fin, boulder up easy terrain to a large ledge (the transformer ledge) beneath the white overhung wall. This wall forms the right hand corner of The Fin. Start on the far right side of the ledge and fire the steepest, most polished section of the wall.

An imposing line that climbs the beautifully overhung arete feature on the right side of the fin. Start off the upper right platform on the transformer ledge and boulder straight up the right inside edge of the arete. Swing around the left side of the arete  just before the 3rd bolt and continue up the pumpy face.

Short and steep multi-tiered roof climb. Absolutely stick clip the first bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Fin Area