A few yards left is a steep, wide crack with a large spike of rock wedged in it at the start. Hand and fist jamming leads to chimneying past chockstones. From an alcove, climb a short slab on the right (crux, 2 bolts), turn the roof, and follow a fist crack up the headwall to a fixed anchor. Rappel with one rope. Take a full rack, including extra gear to 4. (80')

Groovey Grubworm

Millenium Falcon

Glass factory

Twisted Schister

Central Crack

Running Free

Jumpstart

Exasperator

Kudzu Corner

Odin

+)  A few yards right of the big outside corner that defines this section of the cliff, a short flare leads up to a ledge with a small tree.  Above, follow a left-facing (somewhat mossy) dihedral to an anchor.  (70)  Despite the dirty appearance, this is a fun, well-protected route with cool moves and features.  The  original route continued up dirt and loose blocks to the tree ledge; if you insist on having this experience, drop the star and add an X to the rating.

The climb starts directly where you will approach the cliff up the talus field. Start up a dihedral to some thin cracks onto a right-facing crack and the crux followed by a two-bolt belay on a small ledge. (P2) Start up and right, clip a pin and bolt then trend straight up to two corners and some blocky terrain on the left. I climb the central corner directly to the tree, where you will find a webbing anchor/rappel point. With a 60M rope you can do the whole thing in one very long pitch. A 70M adds a sense of security.

Between Jumpstart and Exasperator is a very impressive triangular roof. Start as for Jumpstart but step left, making a tricky move up a crack to an easy slab, then up to an alcove with a loose block. Undercling out left to a good stance, then exit the big roof out an arm sized crack. Well protected with large gear.

The thin, steep crack just left of Running Free.  The route can be done as a clean-aid practice climb at A2.  Free ascents to date have involved preplaced clean gear.

Just left of Play Misty is this wildly positioned and well protected route. Take a light rack (up to a #2 Camalot or equivalent) and many quickdraws. The first pitch (crux) climbs an obvious crack, thin at first, past two bolts and three fixed pins to a 2-bolt belay. The second pitch follows a finger crack right to a slab, then climbs straight up past three bolts to a small ledge (optional belay; same as Play Misty). From here, work right past four bolts up a steep headwall to flakes and a short hand crack.

Climb the low-angle arete on the right side of the formation to the right side of the big roof. Pull up onto the slab above and follow thin cracks left until you can exit onto easy ground. Belay from the big spruce tree (same as Twisted Schister), possibly using a directional.

This somewhat hidden climb goes up a wide crack in a left-facing corner past a birch tree to a square-cut overhang with a roof crack. Above, go right around another roof. It is also possible to step left to avoid the crux roof, which is more intimidating than actually difficult. (100') Extra pieces to 4" (at least) for the corner.

a steep, flared dihedral with several bolts and fixed pins. Start up a short overhanging wall to gain a ledge and the base of the corner, which leads up to a hard move around right (crux) and easier climbing up cracks and flakes to a thin crack in the headwall (140'). There is a fixed anchor in a hidden alcove at the top.

Pull the obvious overhang (crux), then follow a much easier corner, crack system, and outside edge straight up to the anchor, which is next to a small spruce tree.

This very visible crag, also known as the Upper Megunticook Cliffs, has seen less activity than other Camden areas, probably because of its one-mile, uphill approach. It is my favorite area in camden, and is full of steep cracks, from fists to fingers. Peregrines are often present year-round in the area above the largest talus slope.  According to the Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife, they are not currently nesting, but should the situation change, please respect any posted closures. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook