Arriving to the loaf this is the first classic line you'll find on the far left side of the formation on the north north/west side.  Not to be confused with a mystery 4 bolt line found under the roof - unknown history or difficulty.

This classic line starts on a slab and travels a good ways 15' to a slab move and small roof.  Protection with med/large cams under roof available.  After surmounting the small roof the games begin.  Only experienced climbers with their lid screwed on tight should attempt this lead.  The ability to stop and tie off knobs and equalize marginal gear behind flakes a plus.  One bolt located about half-way up the route.  You'll see a similar bolt only 5' away for the neighboring route "Bad Bananas".  Clip the bolt, chose your path and travel towards the arete to gain the summit.  The original route follows just right of the arete then sweeps right to top anchors (Mussy Hooks) at 42m!  Be mindful of the length of this crag as two ropes or shenanigans are required for descent.

Optional anchor located about 20' below and left (towards the arete) of the original line which will work for a sling-shot system using a 70m rope.  This sub-anchor is likely the primary for the mystery 4 bolt route under the arete.  Works fine if you'd prefer to belay from the ground and don't mind missing the last 20' of this classic line.

Loaf Arete

Paulette's Shortcut

Ranger Ron

Alabama Hills Gang

Pangborn

Roxanne

Climb up good plates on the overhanging face trending up and right. When the angle eases off, cruise to the top.

Awesome, high angle face climbing on edges.  Sustained, exposed, and well-protected...what more could you ask for?

There is a slabby crux around the 10th bolt (maybe 5.8).  Otherwise the route is sustained 5.7 with a variety of different cruxes.

Of all the routes on 'The Loaf', Alabama Hills Gang has a flavor all its own. Unlike 'The Pangborn', AHG starts off with sustained thin slab work before reaching the nice patina plates that the rest of The Loaf is known for. So, lace them shoes up tight! Although the route is well protected (17 bolts, 160'), the page author personally feels that this route is one of the hardest routes on the wall.

OK, with that said, step off the flat boulder and onto the slab. Beware....there's a good sized gap between the slab and the boulder. A spotter would be wise to use before clipping the first bolt! After clipping the first bolt, continue up to the next two bolts taking advantage of the small foot divots and dime edges along the way. After passing the 3rd bolt, work your way up left then back right (5.10a) before clipping the 4th bolt. Pass 2 more bolts before reaching the left leaning ramp. Gain the ramp and head up right to gain a stance to clip bolt #7. Once there, step out left onto the face and enjoy the rest of the climb by working up good edges and incuts on patina plates. Pass 8 more bolts before coming to the 'physical' crux (5.9), by overcoming a subtle bulge near the top of the climb. Pass 2 more bolts and you're home free to one of the best view in the 'Bamas'! Rappel the route using TWO ropes (two bolt anchor with rings).

Excellent face climbing with a distinct crux at the 6th bolt.  This route is not as sustained as Ranger Ron.  The crux is very well protected, but there are sometimes 5.6 moves 10 feet above the last bolt.

The route already existed we just brought it to life. Steep sporty climbing up a surreal dike. Helps to extend the 4th clip.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Loaf