A fun route in the Centerpiece Area of Hackberry Creek.  The route starts out easy and gets progressively more difficult as you ascend.   

  Climb an easy face past 3 bolts to a ledge.  From the ledge, continue climbing past 6 bolts to two anchors with chains.

Centerpiece

Dacite Conspiracy

Loose Roof

Kynykism

A Dog's Bark (The Great Roof)

Just Say Yo

Psychoactive

Right On

Recession Arete

Phoenix Two Step

Easy Street

Oh My doG!

Lady in Red

Secret Tunnels

Aint Nothing but a Thing

I Have Faith Too

Unknown (Centerpiece Area - East Face)

No Sweat Arete

Tuckered Out

Immoral Incline

Disappointment

Free Willy

Graphics Bong

Mission Accomplished

Smokin' The Toad

Start pitch one on a flake that goes up and diagonally.  Connect more small to medium gear onto a second left leaning flake.  Continue up a vertical crack using medium to large cams and finally traverse left to anchors.  Plenty of room for a large group at this belay station. 

  We started pitch two in the crack left of the anchors.  Marty's paper guide says "straight up" which would be face climbing with some small horizontal cracks as protection.  Take this vertical crack left of a bulge, pass a piton on your left, continue on up past more vertical crack and dihedral climbing until you finally find the anchors.  Some room up here for friends too. 

  See photo for a visual.  Trust me, not the route name... This long multi pitch 5.7 trad climb won't be a disappointment.  One full rack with some stoppers should do it.  Some doubles of small cams is a nicety but not a necessity.  I recommend two 60m single rope raps as the anchors on pitch two consist of an old sling and two pitons that could use replacing.  

  Update:  go to top of formation and do not rap off of pitons mentioned above!  See comments below. 

  Location:  second corridor beyond the waterfall (probably 100 ft beyond it), on the left of the canyon.

Excellent sustained climbing up a pocketed face with seams on a near vertical face.  

vertical crack next to aint nothin but a thing.

Boulder start (crux) leads to good horizontals.  A nice face climb, this route shares anchors with Recession Arete.

A good route that wanders a bit.  This climb starts under a small roof/ crack.  Two bolts protect the face as you traverse up and left under the big roof.  Turn the corner and lead up and slightly left and then up the face using horizontals for protection to the top.

Moderate trad route between a large protruding rock ~20' up on the right and chimney on the left.

Climb up interesting, moderate cracks to ledge on right with 2 bolt anchor. Belay here (optional) or spiral left up steep face with 4 bolts to top of freestanding pillar. 

  2 single rope raps to the ground (bring webbing).

Can start using trad from down lower than the ledge used for Centerpiece and the unknown 5.10? climb with the new bolts. 8 bolts to 2 shut rap, single line to the ledge, then downclimb.

The crux may be at the 4th bolt. This short but fun climb starts with a crack to a ledge. Climb the arete to a anchor.  This climb shares anchors with Kynykism (shown here in green and labeled "C").

Climb past 4 bolts to ledge, then 6 more bolts up steep face to 2 shut anchor. A bit grainy in places. Incredible views from the top! 

  With a single 70m rope, rap into gully on climbers left.

Begin on a small ledge with a tree.  Climb face with a vertical seam, pockets and some horizontal cracks past 12 bolts.  First bolt is a little high, can climb straight up to it, or traverse to it from the left, both options have bomber holds, but a fall here could send you down a nasty scree chute. 

This climb has mostly moderate moves (5.7-5.8) with the crux move (5.10) at the roof.  Relatively easy climbing to get established below the roof, a series of crux moves getting over the roof, and then a fun headwall above the roof to the top.   

  There is what appears to be a loose block on the face below the roof, but we were unable to dislodge it; it is fairly solid.  One can step around it.

Front, east-facing, side of Dacite pillar. Crimpy, vertical, continuous. Route meanders a bit and has some loose rock.

Starts on a dihedral with some choss. About halfway up the tower, make a sketchy traverse left to a chunk of rock that looks like it might fall out. It is solid, after pushing and stomping and resting on it, it didn't budge (though I wouldn't recommend throwing gear in here, hence the PG13). Once you wrap around the corner, it's time to offwidth! Get your first piece of gear as high as possible in there with an extension or else rope drag will be unbearable. It starts pretty big and gets slightly smaller towards the top. Webbing is at the top, seemingly intended for the crack on the other side.

Not sure where the crux is for this route.  I didn't notice one.  This is a compelling line.  Nice climbing inside and outside the wandering crack. Good protection on decent rock.  A bit dirty, but probably because of the low traffic?

The crux may be at the buldge.  This arete climb protects in a vertical crack at the base of the climb and along horizontal cracks all the way up the arete. The climb ends on a ledge.  A single line rap gets you back to the base. PLEASE be careful on the rappel because there is loose rock on the face that you rap down.

Climb the face past 2 sandy colored stainless bolts to a ledge.  From the ledge, continue climbing past 7 more bolts to two rap anchors located above the edge (slings required). 

Just to the Right of Graphics Bong. Ends at same anchor. Climb Arete and link features for 150 ft to the chains. Great movement and the rock gets better the higher you go.

Fun moves on good rock past two bolts on a rounded arete past a bulge to the top.  A shorter route for the area, but more technical than some routes of similar rating (i.e. Smokin' the Toad). I found the crux to be between the the first and second bolts.  Doesn't appear this route gets much traffic due to the bush-wacky approach, even though it is quite close to the creek.

Fairly sustained face route with the first bolt about 30 feet up.  At the top, move over to the anchor for Free Willy.  The top provides an excellent (but safe) view of the bee metropolis on the next buttress (top of Lady in Red).

Easy chimney that can be protected with med/large cams to 6 bolts on a short face. Some tricky moves, but mostly just a fun diverse climb. 2 shut rap.

Start up broken face past 3 bolts, wandering up past horizontal placements to a 2 bolt anchor on the right. Belay here (optional) or continue up steepening face with 4 bolts and more horizontals to top of freestanding pillar. 

  2 single rope raps down to ground (bring webbing or better yet replace with quicklinks/chain)

From the gulley climb up a stairway to the first bolt on the east face. Climb past 9 bolts over a bulge at the top to a 2 bolt anchor.

South facing pinnacle in Hackberry Creek area.  A fun, consistent climb with many horizontal seams and bomber pockets. Bolts with quicklinks and leaver biners (leave them there, please).Two ropes to descend. 

Hackberry Creek is south of the Road area. The creek runs approximately parallel to the road and eventually joins Devil's Canyon. Routes can be found on both sides of the creek and are a mixture of traditional, mixed, and sport. There is a 40' waterfall a bit more than midway down the creek.  A faint trail south of the waterfall leads up to the Centerpiece Area (routes found here include Centerpiece, Dacite Conspiracy, Lady in Red...).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hackberry Creek