An amazing line. Start as for Groove and Arete, then make tough moves left around the arete, finding a low crimp on the left face. Right hand goes to a meat hook hold high on the arete itself. Walk your feet up and slap way up and left for that distant sloper (crux). Now slab it up to the top!

Blood Brothers

Fluke a.k.a The Drunken Master

Dude

Life Ain't Easy

Downclimb

Blood Sport

Great White

A Boy Named Sue

White Snake

Groove and Arete

Start on two high, very small crimps, then up to a good edge, and then to the top, staying left of the arete.

A right start variation (or completely separate route) is also possible with right hand low on the Blood Brothers left hand pinch and left hand on the better right starting crimp of Fluke.  This may be a grade easier than starting with both hands on the two high crimps.

Climb the arete to the right of the downclimb by its right side. Very technical thin pulls lead to a huge throw for the lip.

A sit start to A Boy Named Sue. Begin at the left facing diagonal rail and make some difficult moves to join the stand start.

Up or down the arete gives the easiest way up or down.

Sit start as for Life Ain't Easy and climb to the beginning hold on Boy Named Sue.  Traverse left from the beginning hold on Boy Named Sue into the arete of Blood Brothers (crux).  Finish on Blood Brothers.  People typically do the crux by doing a big shouldery span, followed by some fancy footwork, to a hard come-in catch.

Link to a video of the climb: ​

https://vimeo.com/40403185

​​​

Climb up the center of the slab, moving right at the top on slopers at the lid before topping out.

An awesome technical problem that is easier if you are tall. Start matched on a diagonal hold. Step up right into a poor undercling, then reach very high up and left to an assortment of poor crimps. Somehow get your feet up and go to the lip.

Sit start with left hand pinching the arete, and the right on a good small flake.   Make a stiff pull to reach a sharp pinch for the right hand, then move up higher on the arete with your left.

Continue moving up the arete with your left until the crux pull gains a good hold for the right up high.

From here seek out the small but positive holds up high and complete this excellent problem.

The problem is also good from the standing start, but for the full tick you need to start from sitting.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Boy Named Sue Boulder