Starts with a stiff layback and then pumpy moves to the anchors

Last Request

The Heretic

Ball and Chain

The Strappado

Life Sentence

This is a fantastic sport climb that was WAY ahead of its time.  The rock is perfect, and the moves are elaborate, unusual, and hard.  I didn't detect any chipping or other "funny business" on this route, which means it's probably the hardest "natural" route at the City/Castles.

Start about 10 feet left of the dihedral under a small roof that guards a blunt prow.  This contrived, but fun start includes an inconsequential crux gaining the face above the roof--think "outside the box". After getting past the initial face, get a no-hands rest in the corner before the crux.

The crux climbs the very steep (45 deg) scooped-out hueco features.  I used some very elaborate and odd (even by modern standards) moves to overcome this crux, and I couldn't help but think that when this route was first climbed, these moves would have seemed very unconventional...just more proof of Yaniro's amazing vision and talent for climbing.

This is a fantastic route, and this little crag is a great place to hang out on a hot day...it stays shady well into late afternoon due to its steep nature.

The crux is a big move (dyno?) to a large rounded jug. There is steep, thuggy climbing throughout the length of this route. Fun!

This climb is a link of life sentence up to the 5th bolt then a dynamic mantle onto the spud jug to start the crux of the heretic which finishes off the climb.

The climb follows a extremely overhung prow with an assortment of bolts that follows into a tube feature leading to large jugy cracks to the top. The climb has 7 bolts and a standard chain anchor at the top. There seem to be be two ways of ascending the lower section up to the tube. Due to the assortment of bolts, you could either begin by following the right side of the prow up to the lip or you could follow the chopped crack pockets on the left side if the cave. Both versions are as difficult as each other depending on your height.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Dungeon