A decent climb that has very cool movements but suffers from some poor rock in places. That said, I worked it with a hammer so everything should be solid enough.Work up a shallow corner and through a few overlaps to a stance below a tricky slab-style crux with cool moves. Continue up to a two-bolt anchor at the lip of the cliff.

Perky Andrea

El Supremo

Random Rope

Go to Bread

Red Book

Stihl Water

Rolling Stone

Trap 'em!

Call Ya Motha

Dark Lunch

Fipi Lele

Reverse Kill

Seventeen

Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece

Cracked

Promiscuous Girl

The Tasp

No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast

Hot n' Stanky

Easy Ramp

Class Five

Oral in the Dark

The Tower of Babel

Adsite Arete

Soft Maple Times

Lichen or Not

The Hydrofax

Let The Wild Rumpus Start

Ravenous

Grumpy Racoon

Naked Truth

Fast and Loose

Lloyds of Lowville

The Eagle Has Landed

The Cross

Gypsy's Curse

We Want No Loss Nor Gain of Life

Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars

Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps

Face of a Thousand Cracks

Open for Business

Sammy-Jo Traceyville

The Waiting line

Queer Eye for the Straight Line

Dobsonfly

Jaw Gains

The Big Donger

Prey Tell

Good Housekeeping

An excellent climb by any standard. One of the best trad climbs at Eagle Falls on solid, secure rock. Climb the face to a small roof. Navigate the roof and move into the left-facing book. Climb up to a ledge before a small roof gaurds the anchor. 

  V1: I highly recommend instead of stepping right into the left-facing corner, you instead move left to the arete. It's slightly harder to protect but is far superior in exposure and rock quality. A must-do variation. - Kris

Ascends the right side of the largest and most prominent roof system known as Eagle Buttress. A one-move wonder, but what a move! At least the bolt is above your head. 

  Stick clip. Go up a short crack and through overhanging blocky terrain to an open book corner. Up the corner, then move left onto the orange wall. Up the wall to a good stance below the overhanging face above. Make a hard, crimpy, highstep (crux) and dyno for the thank-god bucket. Heel hook and mantel onto the edge, then climb easier terrain to a fixed anchor at the top.

A route that isn't climbed as much as the other moderates here, but still worth getting on! Climb up mostly easy terrain with less protection to a left facing corner. Thoughtful moves bring you up through the first crux to horizontal cracks and edges. Continue up to the second crux just below a fixed anchor that is shared with the route "The Big Donger".

The best balance climbing at Eagle Falls. If you can do it, you'll love it. If you can't, you'll probably hate it. Thin cruxes, precision footwork, and good balance are a must.Start at the line of bolts just right of Naked Truth. Boulder up past various thin cruxes, one of which can be cheated by moving left although the fall might be a bit weird. Continue up the off-vertical face until a jug at the second to last bolt last bolt. One last heartbreaker move gains a nice crack to the top.I'm notoriously bad at rating climbs, especially slabby stuff so feel free to chime in if the rating is off.

Up the corner on great lay backs to a large tree at the top. 

  Takes a little longer to dry.

Great, exposed arete climbing, and a good warmup for the harder routes here. Shorter climbers find the moves past the second bolt to be reachy (and hence more difficult). 

  Climb the right side of the arete past a bolt, then switch to the left side of the arete and up to a stance on the left side of a roof below a crack. Go up the crack to a horizontal, then step right to hidden jugs on the large arete. Go up the arete on good holds, then onto the left face (bolt). Go up a thin crack just right of a large corner to a fixed anchor at the top. 

  After the upper bolt, you can instead climb up and right to the arete and follow two more bolts to a fixed anchor on the right side of the arete. This allows you to set a TR on The Eagle Has Landed.

Start at a corner left of Hot N' Stanky, drift left over an orange square where a block fell out and continue trending left in the right-facing corner. Top out through the trees, no anchor.

A fun climb with a short crux sequence. Would be popular if people ventured to this section of cliff more often! 

  Begin at the bottom of the arête making a few tricky moves and a heel hook to find a clipping stance on the right. Work to the left side of the arête past optional pro and another bolt to a good ledge. From here interesting and thoughtful moves lead to great horizontal edges and jugs up to a two-bolt.

A fun route with a tough crux guarding the anchor.

 Work up the crack to a bolt just below a ledge/mantle. From the ledge, work up interesting and diverse holds with tricky feet until the terrain gets steep and the holds get bigger. Take one final shake at the second to last bolt and power through to the anchors.

Named in honor of my Mom who passed away a few days prior to the first ascent. RIP.

Yet another overlooked climb that is a total pleasure. Would be an absolute classic if 5.12 trad was more popular in this corner of the park.Work up easy jugs jeft of the corner for 20 feet to a stance below the true corner. Place gear and romp up the 5.9 corner to a short crux out a roof crack to a mediocre shake. From here power up a short boulder problem to a good stance and a bolt. Traverse right on the intermittent crack until just below a looming hole above. High feet and stab up through the final boulder problem before exiting to the arête on the right with a two bolts and some 5.9 climbing to the anchors.

Honestly, if it was one or the other it would be better but this climb is two very different personalities: in your face, powerful sport climbing immediately followed by pleasurable, mellow 5.9 trad. Both parts are plenty fun but it does lack consistency which detracts.

 Work up the super easy arete to a stance. Clip the high bolt and work through a powerful crux to gain a short section of hard laybacking. Pull up to a no-hands stance below a hand crack. From here, enjoy 60 feet of fun moderate crack climbing to a massive chimney and a wild and exposed finish to a bolted anchor at the lip.

Work up easy terrain to a high bolt. Power through a steep, cruxy face using powerful body tension to a stance at the 3rd bolt. A few more tough moves lead to mellow, dirtier terrain. One more tricky section above gains a short fingercrack and jugs up to the top and a two-bolt anchor.

Start 10 feet right of "Stacked" in the obvious crack and corner system. Follow the open book for 15 feet before committing to the crack system. Pull an unexpected crux with good pro options. Follow the crack to the top using many jugs. The final move to clip the summit tree is thin, but well protected. Suggest anchoring off the big tree 15 feet back and bringing a long cord.

Climb the arete past 4 bolts (crux). Gain a stance and then climb easier rock past bolts to the anchor. Beautiful stone! 

  Previously 12a although a few critical holds broke bumping the grade up to 12b.

A "one-move wonder" but with unfortunately some dirty and chossy climbing elsewhere. Wish I had a huge scrub on my rack to clean it up! 

  Up a flake filled groove for a few feet, then foot traverse right. Up a left facing corner (gear), then break out right and go straight up (watch for a jutting square-ish hold with a fracture line running behind it!). At a ledge, step slightly left and up a face to underneath a roof. Make a wild move out of the roof, then up the face above to a fixed anchor

An imposing and unlikely steep route up a gently overhanging red face with two mean cruxes. Originally graded 12c/d because I had never climbed 5.13 and felt bashful about the grade.Begin 15' right of Red Book at the line of bolts up the red face. Make a few bouldery moves off the ground to gain a jug rest. From the jug rest, clip high and then work through a powerful, beta-specific crux to a shake on good holds. Traverse left to the redpoint crux up a shallow corner before traversing back right on horizontals. Lock into and finish up the moderate finger and handcrack to a ring-bolt anchor.

Almost a sport climb and a little bit of everything. Thoughtful and varied climbing up the tallest section of the cliff. 

  Follow the line of bolts to a small roof at 20 feet. It's possible to use the corner on the left or for more of a challenge take the roof on directly. A series of strong sidepulls to a jug and mediocre gear. Surmount the ledge and continue up the easy face passing gear and two bolts to a thoughtful traverse left around the roof. Make one final hard move before cruising up the right facing corner to a 2-bolt anchor.

Climb up some easy blocks to a left-rising walk-up ramp.  Then climb the easiest part of the face staying left of an off-width.

Incredibly exposed, intricate, and puzzling climbing through a roof above a Class V rapid in the river (even in low water, the noise here is substantial). Up to the roof is spectacular 5.9. 

From Adirondack Rock, Second Edition

A really stellar pitch up an unlikely face, much cleaner than the initial crack would make it appear. Scary lead but can be easily TRd by climbing "Trap 'Em!" first and traversing a few feet to the anchors.

 Start in a dirty crack to get established on the ledge above where the good stuff is. Step right and enter a broken crack system under the roof. Pull on very interesting holds making committing runout moves to reach a prominent horizontal crack. Place pro and work up with difficulty on to an exposed and unlikely face with fun thought-provoking moves and tricky gear.

 Named for an inside joke made by one of Kris' campers at his nearby summer camp and a nod to the fact that the FA was at night.

Overall easy climb for beginners.  There is one mantel move that people find awkward, but the rest is a jugfest.  Start in a wide crack, same as The Cross.  Angle left following the crack up and over the "tower" using all the big holds to the top.

Climb up and right, around the overhang to the top.  Buy the guidebook Adirondack Rock for more detailed information.

Hand & finger cracks to the top. Begins 20 feet right of Go to Bread. Climb the moderate face with OK gear up to the trees at the top.

A super excellent and sustained route that combines hard face climbing with steep cracks. Originally rated .10d, a key hold broke, making the face climbing start considerably more difficult. 

  Climb up the wide crack of Shiver Me Timbers for a few feet, then move right onto the face past 3 bolts to gain a fingertip crack. Continue straight up the crack system with excellent gear and great stemming to a fixed anchor at the top.

An adventure-style sport route that tackles the biggest roof at Eagle Falls. The most exposure and wildest position I've gotten out of a single pitch in the Adirondacks. The first half is a bit chossy but the upper half is bullet. Several fixed draws make bailing (especially at the crux) easy to do without losing gear.Begin up a loose start to reach the first bolt. Delicately climb through a small runout to a fixed draw. Continue up powerful climbing to a loose block before traversing right to a left-facing corner. OK, the scary climbing is done! Up the corner and make a very technical traverse right to fire the roof with gymnastic moves. Finally, work left on crimps and power straight up to a ring-bolt anchor on 5.8 terrain.Be diligent about using alpine draws and be weary of loose rock for the first several bolts. Treat this climb like a trad climb and watch for rope drag around the roof.Named after the mythical lake monster who lurks in nearby Beaver Lake.

A true gem of the cliff and one that went overlooked for many years due to its proximity to an old, contrived, (possibly forged) line.Start up an easy face to a stance at the first bolt. Mantle up to a ledge and shake out. From here swim up a 50-foot sea of bullet hard rock with technical movement and 4 different cruxes ending with a steep pumpy finish through a shallow corner and up to a lower-off anchor.

Climb the beautiful corner past a few bolts (crux). After exiting the corner work left through the tiered roof system.  Pull the roof and finish on easier blocky terrain. Awesome varied movement, exposure, and nice rock make this one of the best routes at eagle in my opinion. Unfortunately the corner is often wet.

A short but enjoyable climb with some fun moves and heartbreaking final moves if you fail to keep your head on your shoulders. Currently a little dirty but such an accessible route should clean up nicely. 

  Start the same as for Ranger Rick but continue straight up the crack system to a two-bolt anchor. 

  Grumpy Rick Variation: It's also possible to traverse right just before the top and end on Ranger Rick. If you get pumped out and need an escape route it would save you the 5.9 crux and give you a 5.8 climb.

The route features clean climbing up a solid, slightly-off vertical face.

A truly awesome pitch!Work up the dirty corner and place tricky gear to pull onto the face. Trending right work up big edges through 5 bolts to a stance. Power up a hard sequence on immaculate rock and work left to the long horizontal crack under the roof, campus on great holds but with no feet to pull up on to the face and up 5.10 moves to a two-bolt anchor.

Hard move off the ground then follow long moves on good holds and up the tall face. Then follow the broken finger crack to a fixed anchor.

Climb up and traverse right past 2 bolts (crux, backclean 1st bolt to avoid rope drag). Climb the face past a horizontal and a few bolts, trending left.  Follow the horizontal crack left to the arete and finish on easier terrain.

Scramble up a wide corner crack with a mantel move to the obvious ledge.  Traverse right beneath the overhang, moving over a gap in the ledge till you are just below a vertical crack with some small vegetation in it.  Look for the holds above and move straight up the steep slab, staying right of the gnarly tree.  There is a wide ledge to set a TR on a tree directly above the last section (so no pendulum required).

Left facing corner.  1' wide crack, 20' long and then hand & finger cracks to the top.  Buy the guidebook Adirondack Rock for more detailed information.

A very fun challenge and a great mix of power and precision.5.12d (5.10R) as for the R... it's 20 feet to the first placement and arguably 15 more feet to the next although some untested mediocre pieces were placed between. That said, the boulder crux and redpoint crux are both well protected.Begin as for Ravenous but at the ledge 8 feet up, work out right through an unprotected V1 boulder problem and a stance to place gear. From here tackle a fierce V6 boulder problem to a few mediocre gear placements and a shake below the third of three overlaps. Step right to pull the overlap and climb the immaculate arete and crack in the face past a redpoint crux and up to a horizontal break and a perfect shake on the arete. Move up and left to another stance before the roof crack above to a two-bolt anchor.

30 feet right of Red Book is an 8 foot wide Chimney. Climb the right side of the chimney to the roof and then exit right to do a series of pull ups on big blocks. Once atop the blocks hop of the the face to the left to the top.

Very thin and demanding start on an overhanging orange wall.  Climb 20' with one bolt to the large horizontal and same finish as The Cross.  

Climb Easy Ramp to the big left rising ramp then move right beneath a sharp and chossy hand crack.  Super positive holds take you to the crux which involves a sweet lie-back off a pinky jam.  Pull thru this into some weird overhanging hand holds till you follow a small finger crack (overhung) to the top.  Guidebook has this at 5.8 but it is significantly harder than other 5.8s in Eagle Falls.

A committing line that is headier than the moves themselves. Well protected except for the lowest section (5.6). A super fun roof and great laybacking at the top. 

  Begin on easy loose blocks to a good stance with great pro under the roof. Go ahead and place all seven #3 camalots you have. Establish yourself on good holds to pull out from the roof with some great exposure over raging rapids. A wild position for a 5.9! Finally, work up into a stance in the wide crack before a final pumpy layback crux to the top. 

  No offwidth technique required. :P

Originally climbed ground up onsight while waiting for a party on "Stacked" this line turned out to be a bit harder than expected. Considerable choss was thrown on the FA and repeated TRs to get it cleaned well, pretty solid now, but you may find something loose. Will clean up with traffic. Start on the blocky arete and climb 10 feet to a ledge where a small tree touches the first roof. Good gear protects pulling the roof via a crack on the left. Gain a stance under the big roof with some gear options. crank the roof on jugs into an open book corner with a large fin of rock on the right. Belay of a large tree at the top. Bit of a dirty top out.

Begin as for The Eagle Has Landed but where Eagle traverses left, continue straight up on easy holds. They don't last, and instead lead to a bizarre sequence requiring the shoulders, flexibility, and ferocity of a newly divorced pilates instructor. If you manage to get your feet on top of the last jug and reach the mini-shake, one final hard move guards the easy traverse to a stance under the roof. While resting, change into your tap dancing shoes and pray your footwork is fancy enough to please the gods of pump as they curse your forearms with sidepulls and sloping crimps. When you reach the incut rail, victory is yours.

Gain a ledge then follow the arete to a large perched block at the top. Over this to another perched block with a fixed anchor on the left.

​Glide up the first few ledges and take a rest at the last big ledge halfway up the route. Here the route starts getting chaussy and pumpy. Climb up to the first roof, get a good side pull, and find the jugs up and to the right, some of which are hard to see. Find a sloper and a crimp to an enormous jug that looks like it wants to fly off the wall. Get a good stance to pull a left hand. Get your right hand on the arête to pull up and into the chimney. Climb up the chaussy chimney to the finish. We recommend cleaning the route a bit around the finish. Let me know what you think of the grade I thought it was closer to a nine.

Climb up blocky, sometimes wet and mossy ledges and then make a move left under a small overhang to the base of an open book. Creative positioning gets you up to a series of cracks in the corner that lead to a roof (crux) . Traverse left under the roof and then finish on the last few moves of the route "Random Rope".

An excellent climb which features a techy face, a juggy arete and a steep finish.  

  Climb up just to the left of a mossy corner. Up to a stance, then face climb up to the fourth bolt, then step left to an arete. Up the arete, then step left and pick your way up a steep face following the bolts - long moves on positive holds!

Easy climbing up jugs, flakes and ledges to a massive tree at the top.  Exit to the right of the tree.  The big flake towards the top feels a bit hollow, use caution.  It takes a #2 camalot.

This crag runs alongside the Beaver River just downstream from Beaver Lake. The rock is brittle in some places, but has unusual hidden holds that make the faces, aretes, and roofs very climbable. The natural crack lines tend to be chossy and, due to the nature of the brittle rock, a bit suspect but the popular routes are worth traveling for.This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so loud that communication with a leader is often impaired or impossible depending on your route.The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which are in the second edition of Adirondack Rock although another wave of new route activity in the last few years (2015 - 2020) is not yet in print.Highlights are Class Five and The Hydrofax, two of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sit above noisy rapids, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, Go to Bread, delicate face climbing, El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face, No Fun at Camp No Sex at Breakfast, Eagle Falls' hardest climbing, and Let the Wild Rumpus Start which Jim Lawyer gave the high praise of calling, "One of the best 5.12c's in the park."

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eagle Falls