As you migrate left around the South face of the Dungeon area, and prior to entering the maze of the dungeon proper, you come to a system of very steep roofs above a very cobbled bed rock. Wild America ascends the cobbled bed rock, traverses left and then jogs immediately back right to get establihed above a narrow roof. The meat comes in chasing a black streak via thin, sharp edges with some big reaches, on a dead vertical wall. Cool moves on sharp rock kick up a CWC "classic". We tried many times to link through the roof without the traverse left, but this never worked despite putting the combined 425  of muscle of the Ubermeisters, Tom and Mike, on the task. Cool line up an obvious feature.

Wild America

Where The Wild Things Are

High Boltage

The Iron Maiden

Helm Hammerhand

Heather the Leather Nun

Green Varlot

Wild Kingdom

Stocking Stuffer

The Rack

Norman Rockshoes

Blondes' Way

Diagadoigt

Whackbusher

Call of the Wild

Lichen the Old County

Argenine Dary Party

Poor Mr. Bat

This is a fun line with a tough move at ten feet and another crux near the top.

This is the furthest route on the right as you face The Dungeon ascends a pretty, yellow face, and this is outside of the deep, dark channels of the main dungeon. The climbing begins with a short arete that gives rise to good solid face climbing on a dead vertical wall. The route can also be climbed with a left hand variation, Call of the Wild, that is just a tad easier. Both routes are climbed on good edges and, a few thin cobbles, and at least one big bucket. These routes get good afternoon sun, are the best warm-ups for the hard roofs on the left, but both are a bit rough on the hands. Very nice additions overall.

This nice line follows a pretty face near The Dungeon. This line is the first bolted face on the cliff going north from The Dungeon. Climb up the easy rock leading to the first clip, and follow the bolts up various features. Hidden holds appear whenever you need one. This climb ends by flirting with the outside arete.

This is a good face climb that increases in difficulty right to the last move.  This is on the right side of the narrow entrance passage to the Dungeon (from the North end).  After topping out, you can jump about 4 feet up and across a gap--then a downclimb is to the South at a very narrow part of the Dungeon.

This is located around the corner to the left of

High Boltage

, about 100 feet of raspberry-bush whacking to the NE of the Dungeon proper.  Look for a hanging, right-facing dihedral sandwiched between lower-angled cobbles below and a clean face above.  The belay station is inaccessible from the top of the cliff, so a TR would be difficult to set up.

Despite the broken nature of this climb, it has some very enjoyable moves, including an awkward, sequential stem/mantle at the second bolt and inobvious, slightly reachy stemming at the third bolt.  1.93 stars.

This route follows the line of least resistance on the northwest face of The Dungeon Block, outside The Dungeon proper. The crux is bouldering out the lower wall before hitting the crack that occupies the second half of the route.

This is an 86 degree slab with thin holds on a lichen covered wall. Aim for crack at top of face.

Wild Kingdom indeed. Tom will fry in Hell for this, but when the time comes I'll try to bail him out with a glib lie - just because it is Tom. Wild Kingdom, runs up the cobbled bed rock immediately right of Wild America. The nifty sequence here comes in getting established in an untra-crunched stance in a right angling seam that is negotiated with no feet and a semi-decent undercling that has some widely spaced finger "locks". After a dozen feet of bicep buring, turn the corner on the right via good size jugs that are guarenteed to strip some flesh off your hands. The line stays sketchy until close to anchors as it remains continuously beyond vertical. Cool line, hard moves, and largely excellent stone kick up another killer line by the "Blonde Adonis".

This is a fun route.

Per

Tommy Copeland

: you can lead or toprope it. This route has two 2-bolt anchors: one on top and one on a ledge just below (you can scramble down to this by going over the left and down in between the wall and a large separated block). You get smooth climbing up until the crux at a large flake you can use for footholds. I suggest using the bottom set of bolts to prevent your anchor rubbing on the rock.

Start on the left-facing flake and move straight up to some small horizontal breaks.  It has good, powerful moves to start, then balance and crimping take over to the anchors.  It is a nice route.

This is a good face climb that has some long reaches and tricky footwork.  The holds are small pockets and cobbles that are just enough to get you purchase.  It is definitely not an easy route compared to other 9s I've done.  This climb is located just around the corner on the right (South-facing wall) as you enter the Dungeon from the North.

In the deep crevasses that leads out of the SW corner of the Dungeon, go straight.  In the left-facing dihedral at the first turn is this short crack lead.

This short route is [truly] unique at Castlewood and sport climbing in general.  The route traverses as much or more than the height of the route.  Start the route by getting to the first bolt by many possibilities.  Getting to the first bolt can be the crux.  Start directly below the bolt (hard), a little to the left (still challenging), or all the way in the dihedral (easiest). Follow the traversing bolts using great holds the entire way to the cold shuts.  Travering under the bolts the entire way until the cold shuts seems more like 5.9.

In the Southeast corner of the Dungeon is a double set of cracks offering a good lead.

Start as for

Where the Wild Things Are

, and then after the roof, move left. The route continues diagonally on edges, pockets, and a difficult finish to the anchor.

This is a deceiving climb that looks like a slab but overhangs.

This climbs past three bolts to the lowering anchors.

This is a short, west-facing line with crimps and pockets. A dead bat was found in the flake on the FA.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Dungeon