This is a TR line between

Under The Table

and

Tootsie Roll

.  It would be challenging to lead it, and the thin crack probably needs a scraping clean if one were to consider that.

Move up into the obvious, right-facing dihedral.  Assuming you keep a foot on each side of the dihedral, you'll find a crux down relatively low where there really isn't much for the right hand.  Reachable holds on the left keep this feeling ~5.10; however, Mark Rolofson's excellent 2010

Golden Rock Climbs

guidebook rates this 5.11 (probably because he tried to avoid the holds on the left).  There are two finishes, both are equal in difficulty.

Dihedral

Big O Flyer

Last Stand of the Trad Lands

Alan's Seam

Corn Flake

Chopless

Resident Bush

Startled

Traditions

Liar Liar

Tootsie Roll

UnNamed

Mindless

Little Ox

Chimney Crack

Oxymoron

Under The Table

Line It Up

Unknown Chimney to Crack

Unknown

Meat is Murder

X It

BM Route

Passerby

This is the climb immediately left of Under the Table.  It goes up a narrow buttress that looks like two Tootsie Rolls side by side.  I don't know the real name of the climb, but I'm calling it Tootsie Roll in preference to "Unknown 5.8".

Locate the smooth tan slab of Under the Table, and go 20' left to find the start of Tootsie Roll.Climb 25' up easy rock to the first bolt.  Continue up the buttress to the top.

Nothing special, but an OK warm-up climb.

From a distance, you can see a giant "OX" painted on the rock.  This route splits the "O".  Start with a little overhang on the right side of the boulder sticking out from the left end of the Tradlands.  Run straight up the middle of the face above past three more bolts to the anchors.

Stem your way up the chimney while sharing a couple holds with the "

BM Route

." As the chimney narrows, you'll find fun stemming footwork and shifting balance until you are in the choke point. Either climb directly up the nice open book with sparse protection or bail out left onto the mini-arete, and climb up to the final chimney that steepens before the top. Either clip the "

BM Route

" bolts or search around for somewhere to build a trad anchor.

Beware of loose rock. There are a couple of chockstones that could move in the choke and some cross up high.

Alan's Seam is a temporary name used until the routes in this sector have been named by him. Immediately West of the large boulder that defines the beginning of this area is a short, wide, trad crack (presently shares its anchor with Alan's Seam) right of Alan's Seam. The seam fires up on cool moves half within and half outside of a shallow, left-angling seam. Gain a small roof with a Hands -+ crack on its left. Pull over the roof and into the crack for a brief but enjoyable crux, than chase some easy terrain to the anchor on the left-facing wall above. Two stars for perfect stone, fun and thoughtful moves that are well-protected.

This somewhat spooky traditional exercise tackles cracks and flakes just right of "

Chopless

".  Scramble up the gully on the right to the start of the steeper wall.  The crux and scary bit comes from the thin flake somehow pasted to the wall above.  I don't recommend putting a cam behind it, but there's little else to use.  After a few airy and scary moves, there's better gear and a shallow, right-facing corner to a big ledge and the shared belay.  It's a lot safer to top-rope this route, but some folks seek out cheap thrills, which they'll certainly find on the lead.

This route should never suffer the fate of the many Front Range routes vandalized by criminals who feel empowered to strip the fixed protection from routes - it has none.  It takes a series of right-facing corners up the middle of the tallest buttress in the Tradland.  Start on the outside face of an amorphous blob of rock at the foot of the buttress.  Low angle scrambling takes you to the corners and steeper climbing.  Follow the corners all the way up the buttress to the ledge and shared anchors atop "

Resident Bush

", "

Traditions

", and "

CornFlake

".

Start in an alcove with a shallow corner on the left with a scratchy bush growing out of it.  Clip the first bolt (just right of the bush), then figure out how to climb past or over the foliage without getting entangled and scratched.  Please do not remove the shrub - it was there first, and it is possible (albeit inobvious) to climb past it without getting thrashed.  Continue on up the arete and face above to a ledge on top.  The anchors are on the wall above the ledge, and are easily accessible from the top.

Addendum:

beware, there is a block that shifts a half inch just below the 4th bolt.

Addendum:

you can go up the crack right of the 1st bolt, and traverse at the 2nd bolt for an 8+.

This route tackles the buttress just right of "

X It

".  The crux is a boulder problem right off the ground past the first bolt, with a unique flange pinch for the left hand.  Once you are standing on the flange, you can move left and up along cracks, flakes, and face to a big ledge.  Clip the last bolt on "

X It

", but climb holds to the right to a shared anchor at the top of the wall.

From the start of "

Resident Bush

," follow the crack on the right to a small roof where the wall gets steeper.  Crack and face along a seam lead past the last bolt of "

Resident Bush

" to a walk-off ledge and the anchors.

This is a great trad crack line with a really cool lieback on the upper half.  Start in a crack on a slab between "

Startled

" and "

Resident Bush

".  Head straight up the cracks as the wall gets steep, then feed into a clean, shallow right-facing corner that ends at a pair of bolts for a convenient toprope or lower-off.  If you didn't bring gear, it's worth hiking round the top and reaching over the edge to rig a toprope.

Addendum:

there is a TR variation of the upper half of the climb on the left.   There is also a variation on the right, 5.7.

About in the middle of the TradLands area is a wide-ish crack starting off the deck. Follow this to a very pale face that is negotiated on the right. This gains a small cramped stance below a roof that can be powered out on the right. A few more delicate moves above the roof and on the right surmount a final headwall and gain the anchor. The final sequence can be done on the left as well using extra large jugs. This is a fun route and a good addition.

This boulder problem marks the boundary between the Tradlands to the west and the Table Top area to the east.  Below the "

Mind Mantle Arete

" is a large boulder that pushes out to the base trail.  From the trail, pull up an overhanging bulge on good holds, then follow the arete left of a corner to the top of the boulder.  Scramble down the west side where the boulder hits the wall.  The hold are big, but at 20' it is too high to screw up.

Addendum:

this has been climbed at least by 1999 as part of

Meat is Murder

.

This route tackles the arete at the left end of the Tradlands where the cliff turns the corner into the gully/wash.  Scramble up to the base of the arete from the left.  Enjoyable moves on good stone run straight up the arete to the anchors.

This is another trad line for something easier or when you are looking for another route you haven't done yet.

Gain the slot/chimney between

Under The Table

and

Alan's Seam

.  The crux is down low.  You can easily arc to the left to finish on the bolt anchors with rings for

Under The Table

, but you could continue up to the top of the cliff.

FWIW, this was named Unnamed Crack and rated 5.7 in Mark Rolofson's excellent 2010

Golden Rock Climbs

guidebook.

Face climb along the crack between "

Little Ox

" and "

Big O Flyer

".  For a couple of extra moves, start in one of the cracks on the left side of the boulder directly below the main crack.

Left of

Alan's Seam

is a very blank looking face that was created recently when a large section of the wall fell away. This pale white face was bolted up a couple of years  ago and has turned into an improbable but very interesting climb.  The climbing begins by powering up on the right hand arete for several moves before stepping over into the face. A delicate series of moves gains a horrizontal seam. Stay in balance! The move to make the last clip is done with no hands on the wall. Above the seam, the line can be finished on the right (easier) or on the left. This route poses an interesting mental game with fine, delicate footwork.

Climb the crack system between "

Big O Flyer

" and "

X It

".  This crack system splits into two parallel cracks in places, and the climbing uses both cracks.

This is a little line whose upper half makes you think about climbing it.  It is not listed in either Mark Rolofson's excellent guidebook or Jason Haas' colorful guidebook.  It certainly has been climbed, maybe it dates back to the Burk brothers.  It's just another line to do if you've done laps and laps on

Liar, Liar

.

You can start the same as for

Liar, Liar

or ascend the easy chimney just to the left.  About 20 feet up, you move right on interesting knobs just right of the chimney.  Gain that crack squiggling up the small face.  Top out at

Liar, Liar's

2 bolt anchor.

This route shares some terrain with

Mind Mantle Arete

but does not use any of its bolts.  Place pro and step off the Mindless Pillar. You essentially do the mantle of

Mind Mantle

but done off the top of the pillar it is only 10c rather than 5.11.  A thin crack, protected by RPs, leads up to a obvious crack in a overhanging wall covered with green lichen.  Climb the wall to a ledge and then make easy moves up another short step to the top of the pillar.

This is a very short but clean hand and fist crack.

This crack is the first crack left of

Mind Mantel Arete

, and is just right of

Alan's Seam

.  Fourth-class up 20 feet to the start of the crack. Then jam your way to a terrace.  A second crack on the left can also be used for pro and features.

Start in a shallow crack on a slab leading to a ledge.  Above the ledge, stay outside on the face rather than grovelling up a gully on the right.  This puts you in a short, left-facing corner topped by a roof with a crack/seam splitting the headwall above.  A fun move turns the roof but ends much too soon on a big ledge.  One more clip on the wall above brings you to the anchors (shared with "

Startled

", which comes in from the right).

This route is the second bolted line left of Under the Table, and is identified by the letters "BM" on the rock just right of the route.  I don't know the real name of the route, so I'm calling it "BM Route" in prefererence to "Unknown 5.9".

Locate the smooth tan slab of Under the Table, go 40' left, and spot the letters "BM" about 20' up the rock. The route starts here.

Climb up to the second bolt, move right to a hand crack, and continue past 3 more bolts to the anchor.  The start can be done either left or right of the bolt line; both variations are about 5.9.  Going straight up is somewhat harder.

On the right side up the gully/wash that separates the Tradlands from MBA Buttress is rounded vertical face with a flat top (somewhat like the side of a 10' soda can).  A line of crisp, positive edges runs straight up the middle of the face on perfect stone.  Unfortunately, the landing drops into the gully with lots of jagged rocks, so falling or jumping off is discouraged.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Trad Lands