Start in the steep and smooth corner just left of Boo Coup. Boulder up to a 2 inch cam placement, then climb up and right to the very high first bolt. Moderate terrain with natural protection leads to a bolt protecting the arete crux, while small cams and nuts  protect the slabby finish up to the Boo Coup anchor.

Sharpen Your Teeth

The Martyr

Shoulder Hop

Boo Coup

Exchange Student

Buried Treasure

'Je' Mapel Jon Philipe

Sweet Fucker

Good Vibrations

Step and Fetch It

Stewart's Ladder

French Intern

Full Metal Jacket

The Head Wall

Closeout

Start up the face below the large roof and trend right towards the left facing corner. Climb the corner through good holds and be careful on the insecure blocks. Turn the shallow roof on the left side (crux) and continue up the corner to the anchors shared with Boo Coup and Sharpen Your Teeth.

Note that the first gear is a good 20ft up and the climbing to that point can be about 5.7 to 5.8

Start up the broken left facing corner up to the large roof. Step left under the roof and follow the crack up and over the roof. Move up and left to follow the short crack on the right side of the hanging block to the top anchor that is shared with "Step and Fetch It".

Toprope from either Sweet Fucker or The Head Wall as it's in between those 2 routes. Knock some of the dirt off while you're at it.

Stand on the small pedestal of broken square blocks to start this face crack. An offset Alien, #4 BD nut, or #0 or #1 metolius tcu will stick for the first piece in what appears to be a flaring butt crack to get you off the ground. Face holds and intermittent cracks moving left and then right following the walls weakness's will gain the top ledges, traverse left 10' to the chains on the next route over.

Shares the same start as Stewart's ladder and then immediately moves right on an arching seam.

In the center of the wall is a crack in between Boo Coup and Center Squeeze. Climb it to the top where you will now find a set of rap anchors.

This route has a tricky start up a thin seam on the right of short sloping buttress. When high enough, traverse left over the buttress into a crack/shallow right facing corner and follow this up past an off-width section. Continue on to the face while clipping a pin and bolt on the way to the top anchors.

Located to the right of Hummingbird Wall and 8 feet to the west of The Head Wall route, if walking the base, before the start of the cliff starts to get shorter, steep and overhanging in spots by the base is a face with some pods and small intermittent cracks for small TCU's and Nuts for pro along with a  TCU/small cam for the crux.  Start up the face and clip the bolts with a couple of small TCU placements between them. Climb to the base of a beautiful headwall crack and go straight up that obvious crack to the out of sight and on the top belay anchor. Don't make your Mamma cry and shame your ancestors by wussing out and traversing right 10' to the anchors visible on The Head Wall. Walk to your car or rap off the stainless Fixe anchors.

Start as for the The Head Wall, but instead of traversing left on the ledge go directly up the face right of the first bolt; making a fairly quick and tricky move. Once past the bolt, finger traverse left above the bolt and then continue up the broken face on big edges to the slab above. Climb the slab past another bolt and finish by climbing the right side of the hanging block.

The tricky start can be avoided by climbing easy ground left of the bolt but this lowers the grade to 5.8ish.

20' before Kinetic Flow, just before the off the deck overhang at the base of the cliff ends, a shallow corner can be seen which goes straight up, overhangs slightly at the start and which ends at Hummingbird Terrace. Pull the positive holds to get off the deck, and use small wireds and small cams to ascend past the crux at about the halfway point. Finishing via Well Hung is a good way to get a warm down and finish to the rap anchor at the top.

The weakness between Exchange Student and "Je Mapel"

Start just right of Boo Coup on a short steep section past two bolts before cutting right to an easier crack system that takes good gear in the .5 to 1 inch range. Work your way up the crack before striking off to clip the last bolt out left. Fancy foot work and good holds bring you to a good stance above the bolt, then decipher the exciting mantle exit onto the upper ledge. Follow easy terrain up and right to reach the steep lieback corner leading to the anchor shared with Buried Treasure. This corner takes gear from .5 to 2 inches; place gear as often as you can because you will make some committing moves above a ledge. It ain't over till it's over.

Start by the Maple Tree, gain the ledge and traverse left to a broken buttress. Ascend the broken buttress up to a stance where and choose your exit.

The original route steps right and follows a well protected crack up the left side of a hanging block (5.10b).

The "HEAD LEFT" variation moves left up steps and exits using a thin crack beside a bulge (5.10a).

Same start as GOOD VIBRATIONS. Traverse left under the large roof using the horizontal roof crack. Clip a bolt and turn the roof on the left. Follow a clean seam to the top anchors.

A direct variation (5.9) can be climbed that ascends straight up the wall to the corner of the roof on good holds.

Note that the first gear placement on the original and direct lines is a good 20' above the belay.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (4) Maple Tree Cluster