Climb the thin crack 10 feet from the leftmost route on the formation (called Ground Zero in Gillett's guide).

It is a solid finger crack, though it has very sharp edges. The crux in the second portion of the finger crack leads to decent jugs and easier climbing. There are 2 bolts for a toprope and for a rap.

Cryptic

Servant of the Bones

Great Full Body

Grateful Head

Unnamed corner to dirty crack

Lean Into It

Brutal Planet

Unnamed thin hands through bulge

Cold Nipples and Busch

The Smiling Mortician

Expropigation

Watusi Afterworld

This is a one-trick pony of a climb.  Scramble up a series of unprotected ledges to the route's sole bolt on a slightly overhanging dihedral with a stemming crux. Simple climbing follows, reaching one cold-shut anchor (to the left of the small gully & dead tree).

Great Full Body is a reasonable chimney route, bordering on squeeze chimney. There are just enough holds to keep it moderate and just enough protection to keep it safe. A standard light rack of cams and nuts should do the trick. Look just to the right of the route

Grateful Head

for a shallow, body-width chimney. Climb this to a fork in the top, where one heads left instead of back in to some stacked rocks, finishing up and left to the bolted anchors on

Grateful Head

.

Climb up a slab, over 2 lumps, and past a little pine tree. The crux is working out toward the edge of the south-face on moderately thin feet, going up, and over.

Hiro adds:

After you get up onto the rib, it's easy going, the middle of the route is the difficult stuff. Also note that there's a nice, healthy, little tree below the second (?) bolt (a pin actually), which gets in the way of the rope. I went right to avoid the rope on the the tree, and used a shoulder length runner to keep the rope away from the tree/rock. My partner went left of the tree (which I think is easier climbing) but spent the time to try to get the rope over and around the tree

This route is the corner directly to the left of

Watusi Afterworld

. Climb a slab below to the corner. The crack goes from hands to thin hands. After the crux, the crack is filled with dirt and leaves; I needed to do a bit of gardening with my nut tool to get some decent placements.

Easier climbing begins just under a green painted, angle-iron hanger & becomes slightly more difficult approaching the crux, which is a well-bolted bulge.  Run it out after the crux to another green hanger, then on to the anchor.

The rock is rough and offers excellent feet.

If you begin this from the tree, it is about 65 feet. Scramble up the slabs to the base of a wide crack/offwidth. From here, it is about 25 feet of right-facing offwidth. The crux is about halfway up the crack. Long sleeves and pants are suggested.

This route takes the fairly obvious, thin-hands crack through a bulge that's to the left of

Watusi Afterworld

.

Start by climbing an easy, vegetated trough below the crack (or the slab to the right), get to a stance at the crack, fire the crack, and mantel when it ends.

This climb can be done with gear or toproped.  Climb the easy slabs to reach the short, but challenging, offwidth crack.  Then continue above to anchors.

Climb up and into an obvious, left-facing chimney. Squirm through it using hero jugs to exit. Finish on a nice crack then a shared slab (with

Lean Into It

) to the anchors.

Move up an easy slab section to a horizontal crack.  Find thin feet and crimpy handholds to pull over the bulging crux, then on to two more moderate bulges, and easy runout to the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dance Hall of the Dead