Fun straight forward climbing. a little pumpy (for me) about a third of the way up at crux, then plenty of rests and fun stemming up to a roof,  much easier than it looks from ground, do a big stem and grab giant jugs and pockets to get through.

There is now a second pitch (5.10a)! Both can be lead as one 40 m pitch if your carefull with rope drag

Zippy the Vampire Slayer

New Traditionalists

Have a Little Faith

The 5.9d Crack

Trail Blazer

Beaver Walks Into a Bar

Clearcut Beaver

Stowaway

Know the Drill

Fear of the Facial

Smell the Glove

Full Stainless Skivvies

There Goes the Neighborhood

Weight of Sound

Zobermansniffer

Scorched Egos

While not necessary, it is going to be a bit easier if you have some crack skills.  Fun, consistant climbing that gets steeper as you go. crux near the top

Super fun long and varied corner route! A tricky start leads to splendiferous dihedral stemming and dancing - all while clipping well-placed bolts!

A second and third tricky bit hit you up high, with great position and moves.

I saw 3 different people do the final crux 3 different ways! So good!

Fun move out the corner roof then up the featured face that might keep your attention. Link into Weight of Sound to an anchor off a lower ledge or the full linkup to the higher. Going to the higher is 11b.

This route is one wild ride! Thanks to Tom and Ha for this engaging and adventurous 5.10a!

**80M rope recommended**

A crunchy dihedral start leave you wondering where the route goes. Fortunately, camo'd but well-place bolts lead you through the wandering first part.

From there, climb up an exposed, thoughtful face that throws a lot at you for 5.10a.

The position and moves of the upper part are only diminished by the inevitable rope weight (if you play it well) or drag (if you don't).

Pure fun top to bottom!

This was originally going to be named "Beaver Fever" but some thought it vulgar, which is a shame because beavers are fascinating animals. So here is a beaver pun joke instead...

A beaver walks into a bar...

and he says: "OUCH! DAM IT!"

The end.

This is the direct finish to Clearcut Beaver 12a, another one of Tom Helvie's routes. Pull the overlap as for CCB but instead of traversing left to the juggy arete, go slightly right then follow the bolt line straight up. A thin technical boulder will lead you to a very juggy and smooth right-facing sidepull feature (possibly shared with Fear of the Facial 11a); after a slight run-out (easy climbing) top out to the same anchor as CCB.

Tom and I agreed that the line is slightly contrived (hence the 3-star rating), for at some point it will be tempting to escape left into CCB (at the last bolt, after the majority of the boulder crux) but I climbed the line hugging the bolted line, straight up the center of the face, and not using any features from the neighboring routes. This way it actually climbs very nicely and naturally, and I feel like it's around 13b but the route is more tricky than physical so I'm not sure. Get on it if you like dancing on your feet and death crimping, and kindly let me know how hard it feels.

Up a low angle juggy face to steeper rock and a couple of harder moves to gain good holds over the lip of the overlap.  Technical moves lead up and left, finishing with a hard move to gain the arete.  Follow the arete up to a good ledge with anchors.  A 70 meter rope is required.

High first bolt leads to a steep, sporty face.

Start in a short layback crack, up to low angle rock leading to the base of the dihedral.  Layback up the dihedral to a tricky finish through the overlapping corners.  Ends on a big ledge with anchors.  It is possible to lower off with a 70 meter rope but it is very close and the climber must lower to the ledge to the left.  There are intermediate anchors for using a shorter rope.  Just climbing to these anchors is probably 5.8

Another Erik Eriksson testpiece.  Easier climbing leads to a huge horizontal crack.  A hard boulder problem awaits on thin holds.  Not only is it hard to get to the 6th bolt, but its also scary and hard to clip it once there.  Stiff and sporty.

Start up a nice easy face to the ledge, then up another short face to a stance at an intermediate anchor.  Fire up the super clean crimpy face to anchors on the high ledge

Climb the firast 7 bolts of Fear of a Facial and continue straight over a small roof to a dihedral. Work up and slightly left from the dihedral to the prow and fire to the top. Stellar rock, awsome position and interesting movement make this a nuevo ORG must do.I put this route up with an 80m rope with about 10m to spare. If using a 70m line tie a knot in the end.

Go up the main crack to the left of new traditionalist and have a little faith. Pumpy moves as you exit the crack and move out onto the face. The climbing gets thinner and more technical for the second half of the route with crux near the top of the climb

Tricky opening moves lead to sustained, balancy 5.10 climbing in the first section. Take a shake at the rest and punch through the final steep section to the anchors.

My vote for the best unloved and understarred climb in the Gorge. The On the Lamb of the Gorge with a bouldery start. Climb a tricky face to and past the first bolt. Good holds lead past a 2nd bolt and to a fingercrack in a left facing corner. A cruxy move at the 3rd bolt gets you to a positive horizontal crack easily followed passsing several more bolts  and ending at loweroff anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Monkey to Monk Cliff