Gets an extra star for not being bolted.  Wide crack climbing with a crux through a roof.

To Knee or Not to Knee

Bender

Insane In The Membrane

Thieves in the Temple

Ya Shoulda' Killed Me Last Year

Members Only

Don't Look Down

Don't Look Up

Direct North Face

Blood Sugar Sex Magik

Wired

Optimator

Wandering Jog-Bra Ironist

A bit of a sandbag at the grade?  The crux -- passing the 2nd bolt -- is indeed well-protected, but the route is tricky, chossy, and sustained.  Big wingspan moves at the crux gain an obvious jug.

Technical vertical face leads to a traverse right along a roof, then climb more face. Left-hand variation is called Optimator .11c

This route climbs a mostly vertical face on good edges with the crux being a slightly thinner sequence of crimps about midway up.

Short and to the point, this atypical route favors technique and bouldering skills more than endurance, and seemed a slightly easier tick than the neighboring

Thieves In The Temple

(5.12a).

The route on the West face of the tower, to the left of the bolted off-width.

Climb past a small "roof" before tackling the sustained upper headwall.  A power endurance test.  Considered a gorge classic.

Almost anywhere else I would be bummed to find such a nice crack bolted but this fun route fits right in at the Gorge.   A difficult move(crux for me) gets you to the second bolt(don't miss the strenuous clip here as the first bolt is kinda low).  A hidden hand jam allows for a bit of a rest before a short tight hands section gets you to the third bolt.   Easer climbing along the crack leads to a small roof. Strenuous moves and a big reach get you up and over the roof.  Easier but pumpy climbing up the just off vertical face  to the anchor.

Good route to break into the grade, as the crux involves passing the first bolt, traversing left to right to better and obvious holds.  The rest of the first pitch holds one's interest, but it's not hard 5.10.

Second pitch chossier but worthy -- and it's there. Exercise care descending; a 60m rope is adequate, but watch (or tie) the ends.

Members Only is over-starred (in Marty's book) in my estimation; if nearby Sex Magik deserves 5, Timeless warrants 3.

Climb past P1 anchors of "Don't Look Up" to large ledge and start of climb. Climb incredibly exposed steep jugs up and right and finish up a thin face.

P1: Climb chimney to face.

P2: Climb very steep jugs to thin face above.

Climb vertical face to an anchor, continue up technical face.

Long, fun climb with a couple cruxes and tons of jug hauling. Don't worry when you're gassed and you can't see the anchor--the last 60 feet are 5.9 jugs.

Climb some very cool sloper features (same as bender), then pull over a bulge to a short section of vertical face climbing.  This is a good route to just 'go for' as there are two distinct cruxes (11b and 11c), separated by a massive shake-out jug that you can get it all back on.

This is a fun and exciting route that would get three stars but for some easier ground on the start and middle.  The PG13 comes from a long climb up an easy corner/crack to the first bolt--20 feet?.  A small cam or two could be placed if you feel the need.  After the first bolt, all is well.  The business comes in the last half--vertical to overhanging climbing on good holds.  Excellent!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Staying Power Towers