Bolted slab leads to a crux mantel. Perhaps the biggest mantel hold you'll ever fall off of.

Arch Enemy

Bumper Belay

Crumble Pie

Cocaine Crack

The Ramp

Cocaine Connection

Spaghetti Sauce

R & D

Forking Crack

Canadians On Horseback

I Didn't Exhale

Tober

The Arch

Layback and undercling the pumpy right arching crack while smearing.  Top out over a short steep crack to the anchors.

From the ditch, start next to the black blasted rock. The initial move is the crux, however you can skirt it to the left for an alternate route rated at 5.9.

For the second pitch, join the main part of 'Love donut' ( 5.10a, 3 bolts), which comes in from further right. This pitch was established earlier via a scramble in from the right.

Up slabs with three bulges.  There is an old piton in the final overhang.

A right leaning finger crack with great position and exposure. The crux occurs where the crack leans right in the upper half.

A worthwhile climb up the middle of Icicle Buttress. Maybe hard for a new 5.8 leader.

The 1st pitch goes up a wide blocky crack to a flaring but low angle hand crack to belay at the face of a steep wall above with a small tree or  horizontal cracks under for a belay.

2nd pitch is a huge rightward traverse below the upper wall all the way out to the top, 5.8 lay back up on the last part. The Kramar guide calls the layback 5.8, but I did not find this, mostly low angle and not recommended. The first pitch is worth doing, just traverse left below or above the small tree belay to get onto last crack of R&D.

Friction climbing up the obvious slab on the left side of the buttress. The climb starts with a crux traverse and then eases up above.

A good approach for Cocaine Crack or alternate start to R&D.

Two ropes are needed to rappel from the 1st anchor.

A couple polished friction moves lead past a bolt to a lieback flake.  From the top of the flake head left to a nice handcrack for 15 feet and an awkward top out.

The route starts 100+ feet above the road on the left side of the crag.  Follow a slab/corner 15ft to a short chimney and traverse right around a large block to the 1st belay.  Follow blocky terrain with fun moves mixed in towards the chimney to the right of an obvious arching crack (Cocaine Crack) splitting the smooth face on the left.  Head up the chimmey to a large ledge below several short seep cracks the rightmost of which is the easiest.  Above here follow slabs and low angle cracks to the top.

Descent: Follow cairns up and to the left before heading into the descent gully.

A wide, akward crack above and right of Spaghetti Sauce.

Canadians on Horseback is a fully bolted sport climb on the right edge of Icicle Buttress. It was equipped for climbers new to multi-pitch climbing and is bolted for the 5.6 leader. Although it is possible to link pitches on this route, it is best done in four pitches with the last being the highlight.

Pitch 1: Climb up and left on low-angle grey rock to join the finishing moves of

Bumper Belay

at a ledge with a fixed anchor. 70’, 7 bolts. 5.6

Pitch 2: Walk left across a grassy ledge to an anchor. Pull onto the knobby slab and follow it to a nice ledge with an anchor. 80’, 7 bolts. 5.6

Pitch 3: Step left from the belay and make a tricky move into easier terrain. Continue up to an anchor at an overlap. 70’, 3 bolts. Low 5th class

Pitch 4: Delight in the golden slab above to an anchor at a small stance. 95’, 9 bolts. 5.6

Descent: It is possible to rappel straight down via four single rope rappels. An easier last rappel—which is sharp and overhanging—is to traverse along the grassy ledge back to the first pitch anchor and do the last rap from there.

The crux move at the hood can be skirted to the right to keep the grade at 5.8.

Follow a hand crack up to some face climbing past a bolt top the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Icicle Buttress