This climb is worth doing if you're looking for a nice 5.7 trad climb in this area.  It has really cleaned up over the years.  Follow the crack for about 30 ft to a stance, then pass the wider section to reach a very thick flake to the left of the shuts.

Rat's Alley

Totally-Clipse

Que's Jook Joint

Wimpy, Wimpy, Wimpy

Fool Effect

With a Little Help from My Friends

Walking in Your Footsteps

Slab-O-Meat

Pudd's Pretty Dress

Villain's Course

The Upheaval

Newd Scientist

Rhythm of Movement

A Date with Disappointment

Scramble up this slab using decent moves and climb out if you wish.

This climb is the most obivous one from the ground to clue you in that you are at Nuttal Slabs. Also, most of the other routes on this slab are R rated this is one of the only ones that isn't and the only bolted route.

Climb the small overhang to a bolt, heel hook, balance and rock your weight over to that left foot, pulling and balancing on almost nothing.  Stand up...ah.  Too bad that wasn't the crux.  Smear and slab your way past a couple more bolts (crux) to a ledge.  Climb the upper wall to anchors shared with A Little Help From My Friends...

If you are in the area for the moderate sport lines and you brought your gear, give this a go, you won't be disappointed.   Climb the hand crack in the right facing corner passing an overhang to a stance.  Continue up stemming over some easy terrain to the anchors above Little Help From My Friends.

This is a great long sport route, probably one of the longest single pitch sport routes at the New, and it's only 5.9!  The lower portion is the crux.  Climb the face straight up to reach a short flake system.  Follow this to the end and continue over small overhangs to the finish.

Climb the low angle face to shuts below a tree.  Nice climbing, nothing to difficult here for the grade.

Start on the boulder behind the fallen tree that used to be at the top of this route. Climb up the slabby face past some horizontals and make a run for the corner near the top under a small roof.

Right at the first bolt this climb gives you a pretty big horizontal reach between an interesting sloper and a crimp. Move up to the second bolt on a jug and then get your dancing shoes on for some fun moves through hidden crimps and slabby feet. Clip the third bolt and then have fun bobbing and weaving up the remainder of this climb. Nothing after the third bolt is anything harder than 5.10. Very fun route with some intriguing moves down low. Get on it!

Work up the chimney, corner feature till you can step left onto the face. Head up the left facing flake that arches to the left out onto the steep wall. Once the flake ends start a series of boulder problems on crimps and pockets up the steep orange wall with rests in between on horizontals. The crux comes with a really long reach going to the 9th bolt. Finish by pulling delicately onto the slab.

Fun route with a good variety of holds, a fairly distinct crux though plenty of other difficult moves, and the potential to blow it all getting onto the slab.

Easier climbing leads to a rest before the crux. Tic-tac up tiny holds and fully commit to the large deadpoint. Don't be surprised if your fingers are bleeding at this point. Sustained face climbing takes you to the top.

Sweet slab.

Belay from the ledge or you will not be able to lower the leader to the ground with anything shorter than a 60m rope.

Originally a 5.10c R trad line, it was bolted because it saw only one repeat ascent in 5 years. Since its bolting it has become very popular.

Fun and spicy moves up the slab. Lots of on-your-feet climbing makes this one a classic in my book.

Follow the initial crack to a ledge and then move right across the face. A few delicate moves here and no protection. Remainder of the climb is kinda dirty, though the top dihedral isn't bad.

Do the first few moves off the ground of Rat's Alley (5.7 corner crack) before stepping up and right into an obvious undercling flake.  You can protect this flake, or just make a couple traversing moves to the first bolt (this bolt marks the beginning of a straight-up 11c).

Move directly right to another bolt and toward an arete, and then straight up on sharp crimps that probably won't be chalked (crux).  At the next horizontal, figure out how to use both sides of the arete to stand up.  From here, it's mostly intricate face climbing on the right side of the arete up perfect marbled "brain" rock.  Great mixed line.

This route is hard. Start with a 25 ft solo up to the first bolt. From here meander up 5.10 slab climbing for another 4 bolts. When you find yourself face to face with the steeper rock above get ready to use underclings, slimpers, razor crimps and slopers to clip the next 3 bolts. My belayer and I both ripped open our pads on the right hand sidepull up high. Get ready to hate these holds worse than your prom date's dad.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in E) Kaymoor Slabs