This is sweet if you like torturous Vedauwoo routes. It is located near the center of the crag, an obvious small left facing dihedral split by two shelfs. Just right of

Slot-a-saurus

and left of

Mud in Your Eye

.

Stiff right off of the ground through a series of thin and somewhat slick hand jams. A deceptively tough entry into a shoulder width slot is likely to leave you gasping. Once inside the slot, recover a bit, stand on the shelf and tackle the next little puzzle, a seemingly holdless entry into another bodysized slot.  The slot shortly dumps you onto another ledge with one final (but easier) puzzling body sized slot to enter.

Horizontal cracks on the left at the top provide a good place to set up an top rope anchor (a cordelette is nice), or set up anchor from various cracks and blocks further back to bring up the second. Very close to three stars, the only reason I could find to justify its omission from that category is the duration of the crux(s) and length of the climb. Still a must do route, and a tough and committing lead (partner said that its higher rated neighbor to the right would be an easier lead).

Lichen Lung

Get Up That Tree

Rowdy Joe Bad

CC Left

Mud in Your Eye

Second Iteration

Slot-A-Saurus aka Anatomy Lesson

Lawyer on the Toilet

Recombination Mutation

Prologue

Flake-O-Saurus

First Iteration

Sore-O-Pod aka Spatial Juxtaposition

Velociraptor's Revenge

Crichton's Crack

This is the longest route on the cliff and a good one, too.  It is located to the right of

Lawyer on the Toilet

and 15' left of

Lichen Lung

. Climbs up a right facing slot and around the corner to a nice finger crack. Next, the line becomes a short and interesting flare, a #0 TCU possible near the top. Save some 1"-2" protection for the final crack.

OK, so you've hiked over to Jurassic Park to climb such area classics as

Lichen Lung

and

Mud in your Eye

and lo and behold, that upon your arrival, topropes dangle from every worthwhile climb on the cliff.  What do you do?

Well, the smart person will probably go climb elsewhere, but if you're like me and decide that you must wait for some of the fun climbs at Jurassic Park, you can at least get a warm-up on this climb.

Located in the middle of the cliff, between the

Sore-o-Pod

group of climbs and

Slot-o-Saurus

, this climb starts as short chimney with wedged chockstones and finishes adjacent to a large dead tree.

The crux is mounting the chockstones at the start (difficult and weird 5.8).  Continue up a gully (possible stinging nettles) to the dead tree.  Stem up the dead tree to some short cracks that could be considered the "fun" part of the climb. Rap off the anchors just below the top of the cliff.

This short, deceptive slab is located immediately to the right of

Get up that Tree

.

One of our party jumped on this climb (which is not listed in Heel & Toe) thinking it was going to be an easy 5.8 or 5.9 romp up the slab.  Not to be.

The climbing is easy up to the 2nd bolt, where a sequence of very difficult slab and edging moves marks the crux.  The hardest move uses a sharp pinch flake that is not long for this world.  This climb could warrant an 'S' rating for the 5.9/10 mantle that comes at the end of the crux sequence getting to the 3rd bolt... blowing it here could result in a hard fall onto the lower angled part of the slab below.

We thought this climb was at least 11a, and probably more like 11b.

Ascend

Crichton's Crack

until you reach the second ledge.  Then head left on irregular flakes to a roof.

This is perhaps the cleanest, prettiest line on the cliff, and is located just right of

Lichen Lung

.  It is stiffest right of the ground through slippery finger locks and layaways. The crack gradually widens from fingers, thin hands to solid hands before becoming a little flared at a shelf. Rest here before punching through the last section of flared hands to fists.

This gem isn't in the

Heel and Toe

guidebook, but I found the name and rating on a website somewhere, so it must be true.

Just right of

Sore-O-Pod

is a line of bolts that angles left up a slab.  The first move is a gymnastic roof move off the deck.  After that, climb 50 or so feet of nice 5.9 and easy 10 slab.  A hard move just after the last bolt is by far and away the crux - awfully hard for 5.10.  After pulling the crux, move left along the ledge and finish on

Sore-O-Pod

.

Great rock, great protection, and fun climbing make for a rare Vedauwoo sport route.

This is a nice line and a little harder than it looks from the ground. It is located in the center of the cliff, left of

Slot-A-Saurus

(5.9+) and right of

Get up that Tree

(5.8).

Follows a grassy right facing ramp to a short section of offwidth and a shelf. Could scramble off left from here or climb up and right into the crux thin crack and stemming corner. A rappel anchor is on a ledge left and down between this line and

Get up that Tree

.

This is another softly graded route at Vedauwoo.  Don't let it swell your head before

Sore-O-Pod

.

Climb the same chimney start of

Prologue

.  Instead of fading left, fire up the gorgeous finger and hand crack.  If this crack was only longer, it would be three stars and one of the best moderate crack climbs at Vedauwoo.  As it is, it is merely fun and a nice climb to learn jamming on.

This route is the first route at the left end of the wall, and starts in a chimney formed by a large boulder leaning against the wall.

Squirm through the chimney, and head left up a rampy dihedral.  This route is a Vedauwoo rarity - a route with a very soft rating.

This ascends the lovely, but short, flake just to the left of the pile of boulders below

Get Up That Tree

. It starts as a great overhanging hand crack, which morphs into a slightly overhanging offwidth and finishes as a hard, steep, weird, slab climb.

Top-roping it is easy, so throw a rope on it, and see what you can do!

From

Sore-O-Pod

, First Iteration is the line of bolts going up the face just to the left.

Second Iteration

is on the right.

Great route!  This has some delicate face climbing at the beginning and the end with the crux coming right before the top-out.

This is one of the best lines on the cliff. Locate the nice handcrack on the left side of the cliff, between two bolted lines, just right of the large JuniorvelociRaptor boulder and chimney of

Prologue

(5.6). It is a nice climb with solid jams.

This is a great and varied route with all sorts of climbing. A bouldery start leads to some tricky crack moves and an exciting but well-protected finish. A nice crack on top provides the gear anchor.

This route epitomizes Vedauwoo.  It is short, stout, diverse, and rewarding.  Start on a ramp with no gear to a ledge.  Place your first pieces, then stem 25 feet to the next ledge.  Get some RPs and work out the thin technical moves (easily 11b) to the roof.  Crank through the roof, fists to OW.  A nice pitch that does not look so good from the ground.

Description

Protection

Routes in Ice Box (later renamed by some ... Jurassic Park)