Super fun and well protected. Would be a great first lead for someone

Sunny warmup

Don't Kid, Minibike

Free Range Pit Bulls

Quail Crack

Quail Trail

Danger Baby

Iceberg II

Chuckers

You Don't Want None

Roller Coaster Ride

Palm Reader

Fight or Flight

Holy guacamoly

Brighter Days

Fukit

P.D. Time

Pet Trackers

Aunti Vigilante

Short and Sweet

Slip 'n Slide

Phoenix

Fun climbing to first anchor is 5.10c (13 bolts), or continue through the boulder problem to thin face above (22 bolts). You will need an 80 m rope

Climb a thin face past 3 bolts to a ledge. Don't fall clipping the second bolt! Continue on easier terrain to anchors.

Start in a corner then move out right to a fun, if short arete.

A second-pitch variation to Quail Trail--short but very sweet!

Begin by climbing the first pitch of Quail Trail.  From the intermediate belay stance, traverse left and up to a clean hand crack.  Follow this to the top.

P1: Nine bolts, 90 feet.  Climb an arete past 4 bolts.  Step onto a face and climb an awkward, slippery, left-leaning seam (5.10a).  Belay from bolts on a small, awkward stance.

P2: Five bolts, ~50 feet.  Stem a slippery dihedral (5.10b).

The route can be climbed as one long pitch.  The stance at the top anchor is much more comfortable than the one at the intermediate belay.

This was the original line on the face. Tom bolted this route on hooks (although he said the first 5 were put up by someone else), and it is a spectacular line with stellar movement! Life simply got in the way and his family kept him busy, so he never got around to the redpoint and graciously gifted me the privilege for a FA. I must emphasize that he had done all the work to make this route climbable - all the cleaning and ensuring all the bolts are well placed, while I simply had to tie in for the fun.

Easy slab climbing for 2 bolts lands you on a ledge, and fire the 5.12 face section before a nice rest. Step right for the stellar 5.13 climbing that you've come for - big moves and a delicate finish...it's definitely not over until you've clipped the mussies! The anchor bolts are placed high to facilitate a tricky top-out for a proper ascent. It's bound to be a Gorge classic! As for difficulty, it feels like on the lower-end of 13b, but it could be a touch easier if you have the span of an orangutan?!

Tom wanted to name the route Danger Baby after his son Gavin, whose fearlessness is "always scaring the beegeezus out of us," quoting Ha Ngo.

Crack to face. The crack section is fine, crux is above the 4th bolt. If you try to stay to the right, following the bolt line, it is much more difficult. (ie - stay left for easier climbing)

Chuckers are a game bird common on the sage covered hills of the Great Basin Desert.

This climb's anchor way up on the slabby headwall between Quail Crack and Slip and Slide is really obnoxious, but makes sense at least when you get there.

A viscous hard crux sequence from the second bolt past the third, then swell slab climbing.

Scramble up to a ledge (a little sporty), clip a bolt, and step out onto delicate smears.  Subtle friction takes you past the second bolt and a clear crux encounter.  Smearing yields to edges and a quick trip up the second half of the route.

Scramble up to a small ledge to belay. A slabby start leads to interesting moves up a gently overhanging face. Save some juice for the end.

Despite the fact that this route hardly gets any traffic, it climbs really well and the rock should clean up nicely.

Lowest angle 12a in the Gorge. Until the top.

Climb first short pitch of Slip N Slide to mid anchor. Launch into the techy beautiful corner above. Flop onto the great stance then hero out the roof crack.

One of the more beautiful patina corners I've seen in the Gorge.

This route is underrated and underdone, in my opinion.

Pass two bolts on a moderate face to a stance with an optional anchor.

Launch into the delicate and powerful climbing above. Great rock, great movement.  The crux for me comes at around the fifth bolt above the stance where you branch out left towards the arete.

At the stance atop the first face, traverse left over a roof to another arete that leads to an anchor.

A varied and adventurous route up a cool feature.

Start to the right of Slip and Slide. Scramble up easy terrain to a dirty corner. Climb the corner clipping bolts placed out right to reduce rope drag later in the climb. Leave the corner and surmount the cruxy boulder problem that brings you up and right. Stem and reach across the chasm to a jug then a handjam that allows access to the prominent right facing corner. Techy face in the corner, then break out right to join Fight or Flight to the roof and arete above.

Straightforward climbing to a rest ledge followed by a slightly overhanging face with a horizontal flake halfway up. The moves through here are committing for  the grade.

Bouldery start past the first two bolts followed by great face climbing and a thin finish before the anchors.

Start up a steep block wall passing 3 bolts.   At the top of the wall either move up left for an easy clip of the bolt at the base of the slab, or move slightly right then straight up to the base of the slab.

Once at the base of the slab relax and take your time as you work out the tenuous crux moves up the slab.  Fortunately after the fifth bolt the difficulties ease.

Cool stemming and fun jamming. Last move is almost 5.9

Four bolts of slab climbing (with a 5.9 crux encountered after the fourth bolt) leads to a striking hand crack.  Follow bolts up this beautiful, sustained crack which gets steeper and steeper with height.  Simply awesome!

The route can be climbed as one long pitch or broken down into two.  With a single 50 or 60-meter rope, it will take two rappels to get back down.

Start in blocky corner. Climb up the slab to anchors.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Elbow Room