This has two bolts on the arête. It is tricky to figure for the onsight. Hasta La Vista is excellent for its movements and elusiveness.

Hasta La Vista

Unnecessary Buffness

The Avenger

Total Recall

Squeeze Please

Wrong Side of the Tracks

Crank Shaft

Withholding Evidence

I'll be Black

Predator

Sunset Crack

This is a short, power-packed, little corner route with some techno-stemming! I think this rig is one of the steller trad testpieces of the grade, on The Pass.

It has a well-protected (get that gear in just right!), hard start to short but sustained laybacking in the tight corner. I gave it an "R" rating, but that's dependent on what gear you've got - there's this one tricky spot where only just the right brand and size cam placed a certain way will work...okay. If that piece blows, you'd better have a great belayer!!!

This is a fun route with varied climbing and some interesting moves. Begin by climbing up a slab with a couple bolts and then transition into a steep, left-angling corner with a couple more bolts and some cam placements.

This stunning crack and face route is perhaps the best single trad pitch I've done in Colorado. Overhanging and sustained with a crux throw at 2/3rds height. It was a long time project first attempted by Jeff Hollenbaugh in the early 90s on gear. It was then bolted and projected by Tom Perkins, but still remained unclimbed. After climbing the route on gear, and receiving Tom's permission, I removed the unnecessary bolts. (There are still a few bolts that need to be removed as of 6/27/06). The route may be a bit soft for .13a, perhaps .12+, but needs a repeat to confirm the grade.

This fantastic route goes directly up the large dihedral to the right of The Avenger. "A Bold Lead" states Tom's guidebook, the crux felt to be mantling the small roof as you leave the slab and enter the corner, but it's well protected. The rest of the route is sustained and fun climbing. While there are likely ways to do this route with a 60m rope a 70m is much more comfortable for everybody involved, this holds true for the other routes to the right as well.

Squeeze Please climbs the obvious, right-facing dihedral on the lower left section of Sunset Cliff.

The crux is climbing past the second bolt. After that, it is gear protected for the remainder of the route.

This route has parallel seams on gently overhanging rock.

This route has a wonderful steep technical crux made even more exciting since much of the crux is protected by a cam.  The upper 2/3's of the route is pretty uneventful moderate 5th class climbing.

This is an excellent, thin face climb which climbs the obvious black streak. A few thin moves at 2/3rds height provide the crux.

This has steep climbing into a small dihedral with several insecure sections.  It may feel pretty hard or even desperate for 11b depending on how you climb it.

This has fun fingers to fist climbing on a face crack and in a corner to work your way out a short roof and clip the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sunset Cliff